HELP! Lens for Minolta Maxxum 5

[amy_stuber]

I have a Minolta Maxxum 5 with a 28-80mm lens. Bought this from B &

H about a year ago. Thought I had a great little camera here until

I compared my photographs with three fellow photographers that all

use Nikon. Now, I feel my camera is a piece of s**t. Well, I mean,

I'm quite dissappointed. I need some advice. I've been reading

posts on this board and getting many different opinions and I see

many people love their Maxxum 5's. Maybe I just need a different

lens? The best way for me to describe the difference in my photos

versus my friends is, mine look like I used a point and shoot,

theirs looks like a SLR. Their photos are so sharp and crisp and

mine are dull looking. I've read in many posts that people believe

it's the low-end lens that came with the camera. If this is so,

what do you recommend? My husband purchased a 50mm, 1.7 Minolta

lens for me and I did a test roll where I would shoot the photo with

the 28-80, switch the lens to the 50 and shoot the same picture.

Honestly, there is no difference in the sharpness/crispness. Just

depth of field. I admit I am not the most knowledgable person, I am

learning, but I think I am above average. This problem has me quite

perplexed and I am at my wits end. I am about ready to go and

purchase a Nikon N65. I would really like to keep my Maxxum 5 as I

am familiar with it and have purchased many accessories. I would

hate to purchase the N65 and have the same results. HELP!!!

[al_kaplan1]

Amy, are you and your friends using the same film, and getting your processing done at the same place? This could be part of the problem. Are you shooting the same kind of pictures? Low light indoor shots might not come out as crisp as shots outside on a bright day. Single focal length lenses are usually much sharper and contrastier than all but the most expensive zooms, and even they don't compare to the best single focal length lenses.

[hkbmac]

Save your money. Buy a few basic potograpy books, and a ton of film. Your Minolta with the 50mm is fine. This combo is capable of taking pro caliber potos with ease. You need to take some time and learn how to use it. For starters, read all the info under the "learn" section on photo.net. A basic potograpy course will really help.

 

Brian

[keith_van_hulle1]

Agree with the comment about the film. Your camera is probably just fine. I'm also assuming it mey be the type of film (Kodak consumer?). Try some Reala or maybe even some Sensia. Also, a better description of what is "wrong" with your pics would help, maybe post a few?

 

Are they washed out and lack punch? You may want to check/calibrate your meter. If you're just putting film in and letting the camera decide everything and the meter is off, you may be over- or under-exposing. You should be able to set the ISO to compensate for any metering problems (use the sunny f16 test). If the problem is composition, then practice, practice, practice.

[j_soelistyo]

Amy, if you would take a look at the thread below your post titled "half enlightened" you would see i encountered a similar problem as you with my Minolta (called Dynax5 here).

i know the feeling you do. I also felt my Minolta is a piece of crap equipment after comparing to the photos taken with a Canon EOS300 using 50mm 1.4 lens. there is just no comparison to the clarity and sharpness/crispness. you are a step ahead of me in having tested the Minolta with 50mm 1.7 lens which was pretty much what i intended to do too in hope of salvaging my newish camera. so can imagine my disappointment in hearing that your pictures still didn't turn out quite right.

like you, i am now contempleting to buy another type of camera perhaps the Canon EOS300 with the 50mm 1.4 lens mentioned above.

[peter_henderson1]

<blockquote>Honestly, there is no difference in the sharpness/

crispness. Just depth of field.<br>-- Amy Stuber</blockquote>

 

<p>Test at the <i>same aperture</i> on both lenses. Try at f8 on

the 50mm and f8 on the zoom. At f1.7, the Minolta 50mm won't

be very sharp. But it's f1.7!!! Your zoom doesn't get anywhere

near that.</p>

[craig_gillette]

Strive for as much consistency as possible, besides film and developer, use equivalent lenses if possible. Shoot at the same time and check exposures to see that they are essentially the same as well. Shoot the same subjects. It may well be that you aren't getting an esthetic snap from yours that you get in theirs. Check filter and lenses for cleanliness and use a lens hood, don't shoot almost into the sun, etc. That could flare up a lens. If everything is consistent and you still get differences, there may be a problem. Let the friend shoot some to see their results?

[edan_lev_ari]

Very simply camera equipment does not matter. Shocking but true. Minolta makes fine camera's and lenses. The Issue is whats behind the camera, not the name in front of it. Honest. Replacing one entry level camera with another won't change anything. Unless you get a Pentax ZX-5n :-) .

 

"I am learning, but I think I am above average. This problem has me quite perplexed and I am at my wits end."

 

You are learning and while you are learning it's ok to make mistakes, Most people, even the photo of the week people, consider them selves lucky to have 2-3 keepers per roll of 36. And camera equipment had Zero zip nada to do with it. You never see the photo's that people don't show you.

 

An interesting and subject is just that, regardless of the camera used to photograph it. And a boring subject would still make a bad photograph even if snapped with a Nikon F5.

 

If you want to take good photo's, find interesting thing's, that you like, and would want to see again, and photograph them. It's that simple. Rinse and repeat and eventually you will have a photo that is picture of the week, and the Technical section will say, Minolta Maxxum 5.

 

Goto the library and find some books on photography, and read them. I especially recommend books by Andreas Feininger, because he puts a great emphasis on subject selection.

[scott_j._little1]

I strongly suggest that you move past the absurd Nikon vs. Canon vs. Minolta circus. It is an exercise in frustration. Any of these brands, along with the others, is quite capable of doing proper justice to 35mm film.

[yogi_logy]

Just to prove it one way or another re your friend's photos, buy the same film, shoot the same scenes and preocess at the same photo finisher with the next roll of film. Make sure all the camera functions are at default setting, and shoot in the "P" mode. You probably don't have a lens shade? For now don't buy one, but try to have the lens shaded as much as possible.

 

There is one thing you may need to change as compared to your friend. The Maxxum 5 is very light as a SLR, therefore it is harder to hold steady and can blur the image. My wife had the same problem with the Maxxum 5. The holding technique is more important with a light weight camera. Try to support the camera as much as possible, or better yet borrow a sturdy tripod (or even a monopod) for this next roll of film. If this turns out to be the culprit, you can add weight to the camera body by adding the AA battery pack. Good luck.

[michael_moon]

You aren't going to know if your lens is crap, adequate or superlative until your printer gives you the best that he can. You need to try different labs until you find the one that gives the best results.

 

I have bought & used a ridiculous variety of cameras and lenses. At some point - usually early in my ownership - I shoot a roll of 100 speed slide fim. Any 100 speed slide film. This is a widely recommended way of checking a camera and/or lens. All you meed is a good loupe to check the slides.

 

And before you give up on Minolta or the lens: I have used - and made money with - a 600si, 2 9000's, a 7, and an XK. The only camera/lens combo that has given me pause is the Canon A1 and 50/1.8 FD that I just bought for my son's Christmas present. Other than that, when people ask me what camera system I use (as if it matters) I say, "Go ahead, take a guess". 95% of the time people say "Nikon". Minolta is rarely the second guess.

[emaxxman]

<b><i>At f1.7, the Minolta 50mm won't be very sharp.</i></b>

<p>I disagree with this statement. The 50mm is very sharp at all apertures. It is probably sharpest 1-2 stops down. The issue is what's in focus and that is a whole other issue. Just because there is little depth of field at f/1.7 doesn't mean the lens isn't sharp at f/1.7. Look at what's actually in focus and it'll be tack sharp if taken with good technique.

<p>

Amy, please take what I have to say as constructive criticism. It's not meant any other way. You say that you are above average but I disagree. You're asking pretty basic questions. That is fine. We were all there at one point. What you need to do is look at the skill level of the other photographers, what film they use, what lighting they take their pictures in, where they get it developed and printed, and so on. There is a huge number of variables that is affecting your image quality.

 

<p>Having an SLR does not guarantee quality pictures. It guarantees the possibility of higher quality pictures. The photographer is still the one controlling how the pictures come out. You need to get a better understanding of the basics of photography. It will take some time so don't give up. The easiest way is to take a class where you ask questions. You can also buy some books. It took me several years to learn the basics but that was because I just did it by taking tons of pictures and experimenting with different settings.

 

<p>Purchasing another brand camera will just cost you money. You could buy a Maxxum 9 with all "G" lenses (or a Canon 1v or Nikon F5) and your pictures won't come out any better if you don't have an understanding of the basics. The Maxxum 5 is a great camera. It is slightly more advanced than my old Maxxum XTsi (I now shoot with a 7). I got great results with the XTsi and there is no reason why the Maxxum 5 wouldn't be just as capable. I have a 50mm lens (older version) and it is one of the best lenses anyone can buy. It is amazingly sharp and contrasty. Your 28-80 lens is also capable of very good images if used correctly. I've seen some stunning nature shots taken with a 28-80 lens. It all comes down to knowing your equipment and how to make the most of it.

 

<p><a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/82870">Here is a link to an image taken with a 700si and 50mm lens. The Maxxum 5 is more advanced than the 700si by the way.</a>

 

<p>As far as film developing goes, try using Fuji Superia Reala CS-100 (NOT SUPERIA 100) for outdoor well lit shots and NPZ 800 for indoor shots. Then find a lab that uses a Fuji Frontier machine and have them develop and print your images. If you're not using it already, you'll be amazed at the quality prints you'll get. They can be found at Walmart, Sam's Club(where I get mine done), and other more common chain stores.

[steven_hupp3]

1. Watch your shutter speed. It might be too slow for you to handhold well. Just as a rule-of-thumb (and only that), try keeping it faster than 1/125 for awhile, and see if that helps.

 

2. I found the 5 hard to hold without the battery grip. You might consider trying it.

 

3. Practice holding the camera still and tripping the shutter without moving or jostling the camera. Breathe out slowly and press the shutter when you are almost done exhaling. Be more mindful of camera and body movement.

 

4. Read over Philip Greenspun's tutorial on this site. Excellent stuff.

 

5. The 50mm f1.7 is capable of professional results. Keep working at it, you'll get it.

[david_marcus]

It seems to me that the camera body just controls two things:

aperture and shutter speed OF THE LENS. If a lens is set to the

same aperture and shutter speed on two different bodies, then the

same lens on two different bodies should produce (I think) the

exact same picture. I am interested to know if this is correct.

The higher end bodies only seem to provide easier ways to control

the camera, and more durability, not better picture quality. The

max. 5 is supposed to provide many of the control abilities (ie

functions) available only starting on canon and nikon mid level

bodies.

 

As others suggested in this post, the answer to your situation is

easy. Have one of your nikon friends help you with the following

test: Put a 50mm lens on each camera. Mount each camera on a

tripod, right next to each other. Put the exact same type of

film in each camera. (If the cameras have mid-roll re-wind, you

could do the test with the same roll.) Take a few pictures with

each camera, at different settings. I would be interested to

know the results. Have the rolls developed at the same lab,

which should be a good pro lab, not Costco. Then, you should

have the answer to your situation. The only variable is the

lens.

 

As to the difference between the 50mm and your zoom, based on

what I have read and my own tests, with color print film,

pictures taken outside at about f8 or greater, with the zoom at

50mm, 4x6 prints, there is no real difference.

[david_marcus]

My point about the differences among bodies was meant to apply

only to photo quality, with both cameras set at the same f stop

and shutter speed. I know that a higher-end camera body has

advantages over the lower end models, such as the speed of film

advance, easy of selecting spot metering, etc.

[dave_redmann]

"The best way for me to describe the difference in my photos versus my friends is, mine look like I used a point and shoot . . . ."

 

The number one reason for that, IMHO, is the use of an on-camera flash, especially a built-in one. And the main reason for using an on-camera flash is that the lens is too slow (i.e., too small a maximum aperture) to let the film capture the image with a shutter speed at which you can hand-hold the camera steadily enough.

 

Most point-and-shoot cameras have lenses something like 38-80mm f/4.5-9, with a maximum aperture at 50mm of about f/6.7. The Maxxum 5's kit lens is a 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6, with a maximum aperture at 50mm of f/4.5. The Minolta 50mm f/1.7 has, of course, a maximum aperture of f/1.7. Compared to the Minolta 50mm f/1.7, the Maxxum 5's kit zoom needs 7 times as much light and the point-and-shoot's zoom needs almost 16 times as much light, in terms of minimum light level to capture the shot! And so we need the on-camera flash, just to let the thing take pictures indoors.

 

Now, are you talking about pictures where you used the built-in flash? I also have a Maxxum 5 and a Minolta AF 50mm f/1.7 lens. To me the main advantage of the 50mm f/1.7 over my Minolta AF 35-105mm f/3.5-4.5 zoom is that indoors I can shoot the 50mm without using any flash. I use Fuji NPZ 800-speed film and set the camera to shutter-priority auto-exposure at 1/60 s. I do use various combinations of exposure compensation, spot-metering, etc., depending. At home I can usually shoot at f/2.4 or so, which obviously I could not do with any zoom. To me the resulting available light pictures are much more pleasing than ones using the built-in flash--and look much less like I used a point-and-shoot.

 

Also keep in mind that, even with the 50mm f/1.7, if you just use the P (program) mode, the Maxxum 5 will often use the flash even when it could get by without it. If I use shutter-priority at 1/60 s and it gives me f/2.4, great; if I change it to program, it may keep the 1/60 s, but then close the aperture to f/4 and activate the flash. So to avoid the flash, you need to either get out of program mode or manually cancel the flash.

 

Another option is an accessory flash that will bounce and swivel. Where needed, this can allow a flash where the result is much more pleasing than the on camera flash could ever accomplish.

 

Finally, before condemning any lens, by all means, set the camera on a tripod, focus very carefully (maybe manual focus, depending on the subject), and use a cable release (or the self-timer). Preferably use a sharp, fine-grained film and a processor that you know does good work (ask your friends with the Nikons).

 

Good luck.

[steven_hupp3]

"So to avoid the flash, you need to either get out of program mode or manually cancel the flash. "

 

One of the 5's custom functions enables you to turn the flash on and off as you wish in Program Mode. Of course, I can't find my manual. But it's in there.

[amy_stuber]

Thank you, thank you, thank you!! I really appreciate all of the information and help. I've done an experiment tonight and I am anxious to get my film developed to see what the results are. I purchased a very informative book and it seems to have cleared my head up on exposures. I was a bit confused. I think I understand it now and my photos should tell me. Thanks again.....you are all great!!

[konstantin_berdichevsky]

Wow, what a great thread!<br>

I have exactly the same problem, and i was looking for an advice on that., but by now I'be bought my 50/1.7 already.<br>

My previous camera was Yashica t4 super (aka T5) and yes, I found my Maxxum 5's shots lacking in sharpness, etc, in comparison.<br>

I believe now that handling of the camera played some role in it, so i have a monopod now, and "cable" release. <br>

I have to mention however, that a number of experienced customers' reviews gave very bad ratings to 28-80 D (despite "Popular photography's" favorable test (February 2002)).<br>

Any way, my 50/1.7 is on, but my 1st roll is not finished yet. I'll share my results when it is developed.<br>

BTW, both of my pics on this site are taken with 28-80. (I still can't adjust to the 100K file limit, so they may have more JPEG flaws than it's necesssary. Photosig spoiled me, with their 360K limit.)

[konstantin_berdichevsky]

My 1st roll shot with Minolta AF 50/1.7 is ready, and one of the frames is <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/1191886&size=lg">here</a>

<br>

So far, I can't complain.