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What have you broken this year?


ricardovaste

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<p>I'll go first:</p>

 

<ul>

<li>Flashes x 2</li>

<li>Light stand x 1</li>

<li>Rear screen protector (not the screen!)</li>

<li>Flash battery compartment (needs to be taped down now)</li>

</ul>

<p>So not all bad at all really. Flashes have just been rather fickle for me, and are too low to make any sort of insurance claim. Other than that, just minor scruffs and bumps thankfully! Although there was one horrible moment in July when I slipped on some dust heading for my car, and the camera swung into the door... I saw a black ring go rolling down the road... thankfully it was just the hood, which took the "hit". Honestly, I'm really not that clumsy...</p>

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<p>Nothing yet - knock on wood.... although I did have a heart attack Sunday morning when my D700 with 70-200 f2.8 fell out of my bag (which wasn't closed) about 2 feet onto a concrete floor...</p>

<p>Camera, lens and flash were (THANKFULLY) fine.</p>

<p>Dave</p>

 

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<p>My 24-70 fell off of my camera and onto concrete as i was about to take a group shot after a wedding ceremony.</p>

<p>I know I did some damage as it was difficult to get back on, but it's been working fine ever since.</p>

<p>Scott.</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>Tamron 70-200 FELL IN HALF <em>during</em> a wedding ceremony. That was a surprise I'd like to never repeat#</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Wow! I used a Tamron SP lens before I went professional and it rattled and fell apart. The glass may be decent, but I've completely avoided them ever since.</p>

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<p>Oh my, it's been a fun year,<br>

D7000 grip just blew apart. Door won't close, dials not working etc.<br>

Lightstand got over-tightened in a rush and broke the tightening knob and crushed the tube.<br>

Another lightstand broke the top off, caught the strobe about 15Cms from hitting a cement floor.<br>

5-6 cables including an SC29 and SC28.<br>

The worst was dropping a Tamron 28-75mm f2.8 on the pavement after a long day of shooting. It was often my go-to lens. I use a Lowepro F&S lens belt (love it) and forgot to zip one of the pouches closed. Picked the belt up out of the back of the van (in my own driveway!) to put the gear away and hear a clunk hit the ground. The lens appears fine and seems to work as it should but one of the internal lens elements is loose. Anyone want a soft focus lens? </p>

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<p>Tamron will fix that for you. I had a non-warranty 28-75mm worked on for about $160. May be more now, but still worth it. I have two copies of this lens so I can rotate sending it in for calibration about every 3 years or so.</p>

<p>I am nice to my Tamrons and they have not rattled or fallen apart on me.</p>

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<p>My right hand CMC joint. I looked back in my posts because I remember posting about it. It was all the way back in September 2010. I believe it started with a cordless mouse (wired mouse is way lighter) that was too small and progressed from there. The heavy lenses just kill my hands. I need surgery on it and should be out of commision for 3 months.. :(</p><div>00axLM-500675784.jpg.33a5c863fcc784d4fe12f0e1cc101378.jpg</div>
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<p>@Nadine: Mine was used for "gentle" landscape photography, nothing rough. It's a known issue (there are even youtube videos on how to repair it). Nothing personal against yourself, I've just seen enough of them to know that, for me, they're just not made well enough. And I like things that are well made, it helps compensate for low confidence!</p>

<p>@Herma: what actually caused that then? Sorry to hear of your trouble. I switched to a graphics tablet back in Feb/March because of a mild pain in my right hand, which has since long disappeared.</p>

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<p>@ Richard: It's an inflammatory arthritis, bone to bone rubbing and super painful. Eight steroid shots later, the shots just stop giving relief. In surgery the bone is removed and a part of the forearm tendon is spliced and basically "bacon wrapped" in place and then somehow pinned down. I am sure not everybody with a heavy mouse gets this, its probably familial since both my parents had it. </p>

<p>I am very worried about dropping my equipment because of loss of strength... maybe I should look into a Canon G12... haha. (sad face again)</p>

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<p>Richard--in my statement about treating my Tamrons nicely, I did not mean you did not. We are talking about different models, anyway. I have no experience with the model you speak of. I only speak of my own experience with the 28-75mm f2.8, which I find totally adequate re build. Obviously not going to be as well built as an L lens. Which is why I treat them nicely.</p>
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<p>A strap broke and I dropped a Nikon F with a heavy motor drive. That was in 1974. I intend to get it fixed one of these days. It's there on my living room table about eight feet from where I am typing. I keep it handy because I don't want to forget to get it fixed....</p>
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I appreciate that Nadine but I'm funny about gear. If

It gets damaged like this, I'll never use it for paid work

again. I just don't want to trust a $3000 + wedding shoot

on a suspect piece of kit.

 

I dropped a primary camera 2 years ago (actually had a wedding guest who

tripped and knocked it out of ny hands) and lens and they hit a cement floor.

Service said the camera was fine and the 70-200 needed $500 in repairs.

Once they came back, they were sold on eBay with full disclosure and a $3500 loss.

 

I just don't want to be sued or disappoint a couple because I took what I consider too much of a risk.

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<p>I can honestly say I don't agree, but I guess that's my experience. Since a wedding shoot <em>never</em> relies on <em>any</em> single piece of equipment, for me to be inconvenienced more than for a moment, I would have to have <em>two</em> failures (which would necessitate a trip out to the car) While a damaged (then repaired) piece of equipment may be <em>slightly</em> more likely to fail, the chance two (+) would fail on the same day spontaneously is approaching astronomical. In a very real sense, you are more likely to be struck by lightning (or at least T-boned by a jerk running the red on your way to the wedding ;-) ).</p>

<p>I suppose that if we had 'shadetree' camera mechanics, then it might be a bit different, but (at least for me) Canon service is so ridiculously good, that if they give it a clean bill of health after a repair, I consider it nearly as good as new (and untested) equipment (er maybe 'tested' <em>used</em> eqp ;-) ). </p>

<p>For me, taking a $3500 loss due to a very<em> slight</em> additional risk simply doesn't make good business sense.</p>

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<p>Marcus, let me clarify, if as an example, a button failed on a camera or a dial stopped working and I got that repaired, fine I have no issue using that again after authorized repair. Chances are, the repaired unit will be as good as new with replacement parts.</p>

<p>But if I dropped a camera as in the case above, on concrete and the camera checks out ok at the service depot, there's no guarantee that there isn't hidden damage. Could be a hairline crack in a circuit board. A slightly misaligned shutter or mirror mechanism. Whatever. This might not show up for a couple thousand shots just as your trying to get the first kiss. In fact you might not even know it and shoot the rest of the day with images you can't use or fix because the card reader wasn't writing to the card correctly. The same goes for a lens. There are a number of things that can happen later on with impact damage. One could be electronic failures and another could be lens delamination where 2 lenses are cemented together and the impact started them separating. Suddenly you have a lens that has decentering problems etc.</p>

<p>When they check out a dropped camera at the depot, they go over it carefully but they don't disassemble the entire unit and check each part individually. If they did, then the diagnostic cost would be 4 x the cost of a new camera. A broken solder joint or cracked circuit board might work fine while bench testing and the damage might be microscopic, thus undetectable for a normal repair check. With continued use, the crack might widen and then cause a host of problems.</p>

<p>I worked in the consumer electronics industry for 10 years (as a manufacturers rep) for some major companies like Samsung, Alpine Car stereo and so on. Trust me, the service departments do a thorough job but things like a hairline crack in a circuit board or connection joint will go undetected until it fails. If that caused the card reader/writer to fail and you lost half a wedding, have fun calling that bride. I'll take the gear write off any day.</p>

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<p>Peter, sure, you are absolutely right, a LOT of stuff happens when a complicated mechanical system is subjected to any kind of hard blow. But well over 99.9% of that movement and 'damage' is readily apparent w/ comprehensive testing, and evaluation. If, for example (w/ a modern PCB), the camera case flexed enough to cause the PCB to crack, there would be extensive damage to the case. The PCBs used are no longer completely ridgid (like they used to be), but are as flexible (or more) as the traces. not only does using a semi-ridgid polymer board prevent a hairline crack (virtually completely), but if it did, the trace would (with almost certainty) also fail - at that time. These days, 'Hidden' damage is very hard to hide from a proper evaluation.</p>

<p>Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that you are wrong, because there is definite validity to your caution, I'm just saying that it is very unlikely that the risk of something like that happening will a) happen, and b) significantly affect your business<em> if</em> it does. This <em>is</em> a business decision though, and the<em> loss</em> of $3000 due to something as unlikely as that is something that I would have to take a loooong hard look at.</p>

<p>OTOH, I would be more than willing to take that 28-75/2.8 off your hands! ;-) ... I've never thought much of 'soft focus' personally, but it'd worth the shipping!</p>

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