Nikon DX Set-up for Macro

[mickey_anderson]

<p>I'm a bit confused with the terms "micro" & "macro" photography, so a bit of research turned up this <a href="http://thomasshahan.com/photos">LINK</a>. His set-up is a reverse 28mm on a Pentax with extension tube(s). There are several other PN sites that refer to macro set-ups for various camera makes. <br>

What would be the minimum a photog would need to invest in (lenses, tubes?, adapters, etc.) to be able to capture similar pictures with using a Nikon DX body? Say perhaps a D7000 or D5100. </p>

[bob_sunley]

<p>Easiest is a micro nikkor lens for image magnification to 1:1. You can write a whole book to answer your simple question. <br /> For taking pictures of even smaller things, have a look here: http://www.krebsmicro.com/</p>

<p>Nikon confuse the terms a little, their micro nikkor lenses are macro lenses in most peoples definition, macro usually referring to up to or slightly greater than life size images on the film or sensor, micro referring to images at higher magnifications, up to 1600 times, usually made with a microscope objective and lighting.</p>

[bob_sunley]

<p>To see what is currently on the market, browse thru this part of BHPhoto</p>

<p>http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/browse/Macro-Close-Up/ci/10487/N/4277997931</p>

 

[johnw63]

<p>Mickey,</p>

<p>There are lots of ways to get down to a 1:1 ratio. But getting that number isn't the only thing to consider. <br>

1) Do you have a good support for your camera and lens ? Does that include a focusing rail ? I don't have a rail system, but after trying my hand at close-up photography a bit, I can see how being able to move the camera in very small increments to change the focus and framing would be a good thing.</p>

<p>2) How far away from your subject do you need or want to be ? Some cool looking creatures may be on your list of subjects. Do you want to scare them with a camera and lens an inch away from them, or would you prefer to be some distance away ? Some things you don't WANT to be right on top of !</p>

<p>As far as Nikon stuff goes, I'll leave it to others to suggest specific lenses. I have been experimenting with a simple PN-11 ( 52mm ) extension tube and various lenses to see how they work together. To get 1:1 I think I would need to put it on a 50mm lens. But that would put the front of the lens VERY close to the subject , so I've been using my 105mm lens and 75-150mm zoom to get a feel of things.</p>

<p> </p>

[elliot1]

<p>There are many options at many different prices levels. The absolute minimum cost and equipment wise would be $10 tubes that will work with your current lenses. Possibly the best choice (for working distance and IQ) and highest cost is Nikons 200mm f4 Micro - exceptional IQ and excellent working distance. The best compromise in cost and working distance might be Nikon's 105mm lenses which offer excellent IQ and reasonable working distance at a more affordable cost. Nikon's 105mm f4 AIS is most affordable, followed by the f2.8 version, AF f2.8 version and at the highest costs, the f2.8 AF-S (newest) lens.</p>

[elliot1]

<p>A quick comparison between a low cost option and a higher one.</p>

<p>Shot with the D3 and SB-900 bounced</p>

<p>These are unprocessed out of the camera JPGS with identical picture control settings.</p>

[elliot1]

<p>A surprisingly good combination</p><div></div>

[elliot1]

<p>A more expensive option</p><div></div>

[elliot1]

<p>Crop to show detail</p><div></div>

[sem_svizec]

<p>For this sort of image-stacked supermacro stuff you need: <br>

- BR-2A reversal adapter (preferably genuine, some copies are poor) <br>

- $10 dumb F-mount extension tubes; bellows are easier to adjust but clumsier to carry<br>

- a lens; preferably 20mm to 50mm prime (the shorter the more magnification) <br>

A short macro prime such as Nikkor 55/3.5 focused suitably close (to the sensor!) should be better at short extensions (for 1x...3x magnification, depends on the FL)<br>

At longer extensions (for high magnifications) macro capability is not required but you may want a larger aperture if you don't want too much diffraction blur. <br>

Some folks use enlarger lenses cheap nowadays...<br>

You will probably need a good manual flash with an improvised diffuser. <br>

And a good workbench with a micrometer shift table, at least a good focus rail. <br>

And focus stacking software (Zerene, Helicon; I think some freeware can be found too though not recommended). <br>

The photomacrography forum is the best info resource. <br>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/johnhallmen/sets/72157604592459772/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/johnhallmen/sets/72157604592459772/</a></p>

 

[Peter_in_PA]

<p>The 55mm f2.8 and f3.5 manual focus AI/AI-S lenses are GREAT low-cost ways to get into this. I love my f3.5, and only shoot static subjects with it, so with no metering and no AF... I don't care. Still get great stuff...</p><div></div>

[sem_svizec]

<p>Some means of screwing the camera to the table may be better than a bad tripod. <br>

If you have second thoughts regarding focus stacking, single shots are doable handheld with flash. But DoF will be very thin at high magnifications, even if you stop down the aperture all the way. Try shorter lenses, for least blur of the out-of-focus regions. Btw kit lenses 18-xx(x) reversed @18mm, preferably with some extension, may be used for practice. </p>

[sebastianmoran]

<p>Mickey, I've been experimenting with this. </p>

<p>The images on the site you reference are much more than 1:1. Just a guess is they are 3x or 5x.</p>

<p>To get this magnification, you want to put your lens an inch or so from the subject and a foot or so from the camera. This is very rough, but you get the idea. Here's how I do it:<br>

- Nikon PB-4 bellows. Better than a long stack of extension tubes.<br>

- Between bellows and body, a "chipped" M extension tube (Google Rorslett chips tube)<br>

- Nikon BR-2A on the front of the bellows to reverse the lens<br>

- Nikkor 28mm f/2.8 AIS or one of the 55mm macros<br>

- To focus, move the sensor (camera body), not the lens. Live-view helps greatly.<br>

- For the 28 (with floating element), set lens focus based on lens-sensor distance<br>

- Focus stacking with Helicon Focus software</p>

<p>Good luck. Macro beyond 1:1 is difficult but very interesting. Read up on diffraction in macro photography. </p>

 

[back alley]

<p>i use the new 40/2.8 micro nikkor lens...i use it as a walk around lens and as a macro...BUT i am not a diehard macro guy and have used it for flowers and more general close up imagery.<br /> it's a great lens and pretty cheap to boot.</p>

<p>http://www.flickr.com/photos/back_alley/sets/72157628870094599/</p>

[sebastianmoran]

<p>For photographing objects the size of a single flower blossom, there's nothing like a regular macro lens (that is, in Nikon nomenclature, a "Micro-Nikkor." Same on down to the size of a coin or postage stamp.</p>

<p>For photographing objects the size of an ant or the head of a fly, it's a different story.</p>

[jeannean_.]

<p>Sebastian is right, those images are more than a 1:1 magnification and are focus stacked. There's a lot of great information in the stickies on the macro forum on fred miranda about using tubes, reversing lenses, flash diffusion, etc. </p>

<p><a href="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/board/45">http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/board/45</a></p>