Mamiya Mirror Lock-Up Double Cable Release ?

[john_dowle1]

<p>I've ordered a Mamiya Mirror Lock-Up Double Cable Release ( got it for a good price ) I've never used release cables much at all and wondered if anyone could give me their thoughts or advice on using it ? Thanks in advance as usual for any feedback.<br>

John.</p>

[gregory_king1]

<p>1. Install<br>

2. Shoot. <br>

3. If it doesn't work, reverse the cables. ;-)</p>

<p>No real advice necessary. I guess you need to wait a fraction of a second for the mirror vibration to dampen out. I know mirror shake on the RZ67 is pretty severe at lower shutter speeds. I haven't compared it at higher speeds (or even at flash durations) to see if it makes a difference.</p>

[marc_batters]

<p>Very simple really. <br /> Press the plunger half way...only one of the cables will expose the cable rod. That's the end that goes to the mirror lock up, (MLU) socket on the lens. <br /> Fully depress the plunger, and the second/other end will have the actuator rod exposed. <br /> That's the end you screw into the shutter button on the camera body.</p>

<p>In use, wait at the halfway point on the plunger for the mirror slap/shake to settle down, then continue through with the shutter firing; about a one second, or a verbal, "One...Mississippi" pause.</p>

[gareth_williams2]

<p>Got one and it is a real pain - waste of space as it never gets used. I and many others use a single release into the RZ lens (Personally I prefer an air release Bulb) and to release the camera shutter manually at the front of the body. This enables the mirror to be raised ready and then the lens shutter to be fired at the most appropriate moment- far less hassle, easier to set up and minimises mechanical contact with the camera as if using a cable one can use one of decent length.</p>

[gareth_williams2]

<p>I checked with mine and surely Marc has got them the wrong way round. The one that shows on half depression will be the one that fires first and therefore needs to go into the camera body to raise the mirror. I may be wrong but it only goes to show how useless this accessory is!</p>

[dave_s]

<p>Yeah, Marc made a slip of the pen, so to speak. From the context, he knew what he meant but it just came out bassackwards. You set it to fire the mirror first, then the leaf shutter.</p>

<p>I do the same as Gareth, and I bet most people do, too: fire the body with a fingerpoke, contemplate my navel for two seconds, fire the lens with an ordinary single cable release. </p>

[tree]

<p>I never bothered with the special release. I use a regular cable release on the lens and just manually fire the body release to raise the mirror.</p>

[marc_batters]

<p>Oops, sorry John...my bad. Gareth and Dave have steered you correctly.</p>

<p>On a related note, after using a cable release in the MLU socket on the lens, you sometimes have to futz with the socket to get it to fully retract. The lens won't fire properly from the camera body shutter button unless the lens socket has fully retracted back to the flush position. Every lens seems to have it's own degree of, futzy-ness.</p>

[jbcrane_gallery]

<p>I might be able to add something here, even though it's an old thread... when I bought my double release I diligently plugged in silver to silver, black to black. That is, the silver part was screwed into the body, the black-tip into the lens barrel. Sometimes, though, the camera would fire immediately upon re-cocking the lever. I finally realized what was happening: the friction in the cable that connected to the silver-tipped portion - because I had it bent around too tightly - was causing the pin to remain extended into the shutter release button, causing the camera to fire again once cocked. Now, I do as others mention above: poke the release with my finger, count to 5 or so, then release the leaf shutter via the cable release. I can second the M-up socket getting stuck "out" too - an easy thing to overlook. It wastes a frame until you figure it out.</p>