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Experiences with "Dandelion" chipping?


rodeo_joe1

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<p>I saw the thread on Dandelion chips down the page and was considering modding one or two of my favourite MF Ai-S lenses. I use MF lenses quite a lot on my D700, but since the camera has good support for non-cpu lenses, I hadn't considered the chipping option up 'til now. It would be nice to just fit the lens and go, rather than select a memory bank or overwrite one.</p>

<p>So my question is, what are the advantages, if any, of fitting a dandelion chip for use with a D700? I know I'll get aperture control from the camera body, but presumably the lens will have to be permanently set at its minimum aperture for this to work properly. I already get focus confirmation, matrix metering and limited EXIF info. Are there any disadvantages to chipping? For example, if you knock the aperture off its minimum setting do you get any warning? Does the lens have to have an f/22 minimum aperture to work? Does the conversion look good enough that the resale value of the lens is held?</p>

<p>Any answers to the above and any further info on chipping gratefully accepted. The lenses I'm considering converting at present are the 105mm f/1.8 Ai-S and the 400mm f/5.6 IF-ED Ai-S Nikkors, with maybe a 50mm f/1.4 Ai and 70-150 f/3.5 Series E zoom to follow if all goes well. (I know, I know, the zoom will have to pretend to be a fixed 135mm or something like that.)</p>

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<p>Good timing... I'm wondering the SAME thing.... I just got my D700 but have used a slew of MF lenses on my D300 and am now considering doing the chipping on my 35/1.4 and 105/2.5 as I love them both for a number of applications. I'm not sure how I feel about taking one under the 'knife' myself, especially the 35/1.4 but I inquired at<a href="http://www.legacy2digital.com"> www.legacy2digital.com </a>this week about what was involved in their 'Matrix CPU Chipping' service (I'm not sure if they use the dandelion.</p>

<p>I heard back very quickly from Joshua at L2D with a very detailed email, bottom line is its pretty pricey from them. here is an excerpt from his email;</p>

 

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<p>1. the 35/1.4 is a LEVEL 3 conversion ($199). The mount has very little room for a CPU, but we have developed the proper modifications to the mount necessary to install it. <br>

2. Limitations: with the AIS lenses, there are no limitations. We do offer 2 CPU types (this is not yet on our site): a Standard and Pro. With the Standard, you would use the camera's Command Dial to set aperture, and leave the lens's aperture set at min (e.g., F22). With the Pro (see below) you can use either Command Dial or F-stop ring on the lens. <br>

3. Backward compatibility: there are no issues using your converted lenses on ANY Nikon body. <br>

4. Yes, we can convert a 50/1.2 Nikkor. This conversion requires a customized CPU and runs about $400-450, depending on the lens series. If you look at our website blog you can see an example of a recently converted lens. This price include a Pro CPU. </p>

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<p>I had also inquired about a 50/1.2 - I don't own one but I was curious. The #3 answer was reassuring, I wasn't sure if the manual aperture ring was permanently disabled in order to effect the modification but that doesn't seem to be the case at least with the L2D process.</p>

<p>I'm very interested in anyone's experience either doing it themselves or via a place like L2D, I'd even be interested in knowing if there are other places like them. I haven't found them yet myself.</p>

 

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<p>I'll join the line in the quest for info. There seemed to be a lot of talk on various forums a year or so ago, but nothing lately. I am on a budget and am new to DSLR land, having lately acquired a clean D50 and would love to be able to meter with my older AIS lenses.<br>

The only thing that shows up via search is and adapter to use Nikkor glass on Canon EOS bodies or M42 on Nikon bodies. The prices quoted a year ago for the DIY versions were reasonable enough, but the item seems to have disappeared from the marketplace. </p>

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<p>It's a bit dated, and I belive he is a member here at P-net as well but Bjorn Rorslett put up a page dedicated to chipping lenses and even refers to having some CPU's in stock for sale (though he doesn't do the modification for you). T<a href="http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_CPUconversion.html">he link is HERE</a>. </p>

<p>I also found<a href="http://dp-master1.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1030&message=39047993"> a thread over on DP Preview</a> that is pretty recent and gives a nice step by step with a 50/1.8 Series E.... make me think about trying it actually as I've got the same lens. Is it looking a gift horse in the mouth to also critisize the awful navigation of the DP forums here?!? I mean really...</p>

<p>The 50/1.8 Series E would be a low risk trial at any case. - I'm with you Peter, the thought of having a chipped 105/2.5 is alluring!</p>

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<p>Some answers: I bought four and installed four. Some lenses are just simple some need a bit work.<br>

About those Dandelions, some have claimed that they are fragile. Just wondering where this fragility issue have risen. I glued one chip a bit off, had to use flat screw driver to lever it away, the chip popped to the other end of the room. It was fine however, and I installed it to a correct position.<br>

You progran the chip to have at least: min f, max f, focal length, maybe focus confirmation correction factor and status which tells if the lens is in auto or in manual state. The auto/manual effects on how the camera (if it can) shows only the "green dot" or also focusing helper arrows (on manual mode).<br>

Those chipped lenses are handy to change. You must set the lens aperture to the minimun in order to let the camera have the control. There is a possibility to error if the aperture of the lens is not in its smallest value. </p>

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<p>Does the conversion look good enough that the resale value of the lens is held?</p>

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<p>Joe, definitively.<br>

One more thing: some experts have said that this new G-mode may not be as accurate as if the aperture was controlled via the lens. No problem in time lapse photos where this possible inaccurasy might bother. Just set the lens aperture just half stop bigger. Make a confirmation shot and then you have the aperture controlled by the lens. After time lapse sequense remember to set the aperture to the smallest. (This claimed inaccuracy and the last piece of advise is usually not field relevant).<br>

And you program those chips according to a simple set of instructions with your Nikon camera. Yes the camera is the progamming device. Chips come with a "gadget" or jig that helps positioning the chip correctly.<br>

I bought those four chips about a year ago and I have not checked the staus of Dandelion or the initial source lately.</p>

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<p>Thanks Kari, good info. I've gone ahead and ordered two of the chips now. So to everyone else looking for information, I'll report back, if and when they arrive. I ordered the chips from a company based in Belarus (I think) called Peleng, so it may take a little while to get the things.</p>

<p>Having examined the lenses that I want to modify, it appears that I'll have to hacksaw or file away part of the element protector at the back of the lens. Not a big deal, but it's not a nice feeling having to perform surgery on an old friend. I think I'll use epoxy glue. It gives plenty of time to set the chip in place and is extremely strong.</p>

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<p>In addition to several useful threads on DPReview, there's also a lot of useful chipping info on Nikongear (pay site unfortunately) where BR is active as nfoto. <br>

I got my $30 Dandelion from tagotech and have successfuly epoxied it to an AI-s Vivitar 2x macro focusing TC. <br>

AFAIK Dandelions are "G" type chips. They obviously lack the AF distance gauge. Consequentially there are minor issues with functions that rely on it, like TTL-BL flash, probably 3D tracking for AF. Those "Pro" ;) chips are probably made according to the AF pre-D protocol, so the camera knows AF distance is unavailable.</p>

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<p>Hello,<br>

I made the conversion with a dandelion chip on following lenses :<br>

55 /2.8 macro<br>

85/2 On thoses two lens, there was no need to plane the lensbarrel.<br>

On the 105 /2.5, 35/2, and angénieux 70-210, I had to plane the lensbarrel (There is a kind of black wall that has to be planed in order to place the chip in the right position.<br>

I also used the chip on Contax lenses converted to nikon. for more info on this, check www.leitax.com<br>

If one need more infos, contact me. But I am not selling chips !<br>

Once installed and programmed, the lens behaves just like if you put an ais lens on a Nikon FA : you set the aperture to the smallest opening and you can use the P function without limitation.<br>

Best regards<br>

Laurent</p>

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<p>Thank you, Laurent. The seller jinfinance, with 40k feedbacks, looks good. Have you bought from him? Is this the Russian Dandelion chip?</p>

<p>The page says the chip won't work with the F90x (=N90s). Does anyone know what happens when a chipped lens is mounted on that camera? That's one of the bodies I would use.</p>

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<p>1. yes. I don't know if it's THE russian chip, but it looks like it and works exactly the same way.<br>

2. Absolutly no idea : I don't have an F90x camera.<br>

To glue the chip, you'd better use a kind of gel glue and not a glue that is very liquid. I got a chip that had the pins stuck inside because the glue managed to go in the chip.<br>

Laurent</p>

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<p>I have used a dandelion chip on several of my manual focus lenses. The chip is easy to install on most Nikon glass, all you have to do is make sure it's correctly lined up with the existing baffle. You can line up the first of four pins with the end of a rim on the mounting flange. The first of four pins that I'm referring to is the first of four after the gap, there's one pin, than about a 3/8 inch gap, and four pins next to each other, use the first pen of those four as your reference point. As other posters have pointed out you should use a gel type of proxy, that will give you plenty of time to position the chip. You can get instructions on how to program the chip at this website http://www.peleng8.com/pic/programming_nikon_en.pdf</p>

<p> this website on eBay will sell you a dandelion chip http://www.xxxx.com:80/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270664939779<br>

substitute ebay for xxxx on the link<br>

if you buy 2 or more he will include a blue plastic reference guide, but I used an AF lens as my guide.<br>

they are easy to install, especially if you have an autofocus lens to use as a reference, and you do not need expensive tools.</p>

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<p>Hi again. Thanks for the extra info everyone. Just received the two "chips" in the post this morning and am now waiting for the epoxy glue to set on my 105mm f/1.8 conversion. Will post a follow-up thread later with details and pictures, since this thread looks in danger of disappearing off the bottom of the screen!</p>
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  • 3 years later...

<p>Hi Joe, any updates on your last post? :)<br>

I also bought a Nikon dandelion chip back in 2012 but haven't got around to putting it on a lens. I have a Nikkor 55mm f/1.2 that I'd like to put the chip on, but looking at the mount flange, the chip is too thick - I tried filing the chip but some of the copper bits got exposed - not sure if I messed it up :(<br>

I don't think I'd like to butcher the rear mount of the 55 f1.2 though. I might find some spare rear mount to put the chip and test if it is ok.<br>

Has anyone here tried to put the dandelion on a 55mm f/1.2?</p>

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