Fear of Loading

[richard_g]

<p>I want to append "in Las Vegas" whenever I see this thread title. Are you a Hunter S Thompson fan? It seems unlikely.</p>

[mukul_dube]

<p>Alas, no: the only Thompson I can think of who wrote is E.P. I thought the similarity to Erica Jong's most famous book title would be stark.</p>

[Rob F.]

<p>I'm old school. I don't care what the new-fangled rules are. I've been shooting with Leicas rangefinders for over 55 years, and with Leica Ms for about 50 years. Here's what I do with an M6 and MP:</p>

<p>I pull out enough film to reach across the camera from the cassette end to the takeup thingie. I put the end of the leader into the thingie prongs. Tom Abrahamssohn recommends bending a crease into the end of the leader to help the thingie prongs grab the film. I've tried this and it's good, but I do OK without that as well. The film will typically not be all the way onto the guide rails. I flick it up with a fingernail. I advance the film very slowly and watch carefully to check that the sprocket teeth engage the sprocket holes. This does not require advancing a full frame. One sprocket hole engaged is enough. When it's in, it's in. Now I tension the rewind gently. No need to put any tension on it. As soon as I can feel it snug up, that's enough. Check that the sprocket is still engaged. Leave the M6 wind crank flipped out; or leave the MP knob up. Put the the bottom on. Wind the rest of the frame. Watch that the rewind crank or knob is rotating as you wind. That proves the film is winding, properly loaded. Click and wind another frame or two and you're done. No wasted film--one sprocket hole only.</p>

<p>I've never had a misload.</p>

[mukul_dube]

<p>Thank you, Rob F. There seems to be general agreement here that Leica's instructions are okay if one is careful to tighten up the film in its cassette and check for sprocket engagement. Maybe I should give up wishing that a removable take-up spool could be used.</p>

[Rob F.]

<p>Well, I think I can load my M2 just as fast or faster than the M6, because when I push the cassette and the spool home at the same time, the film is seated accurately on the first try. A quick check that the sprocket is engaged, and we're done.</p>

[jason]

<p>The loading fear must be overcome! Things can go wrong..Me a shooter with Leica since 1966, the "drop-loading" of M6 from year 2000.I make sure film is loaded exactly like picture on base. Not more,not less.A rapid advance after closing back. I gently rewind the film till it stops. I advance once more.This is to be my 1st exposure. After first exposure, I watch the rewind knob/thing move as I advance again. It is so easy, I do it in dark. I always get 25~27 exposures per 24.<br>

3 extra shots per 34/roll means a free film every 8 rolls.That's the spirit! The most expensive system user saves on film! I load my removable-spools of earlier M in light or dark,but only to hook it in,place in body. Feel the film resting on sprockets and close back. Check the rewind as before.The Earlier M is more sure!<br>

I failed with M-7. A friend loaned me his. I dropped in, but roll was very tight in cartridge and did not advance, after pretending the first few shots..the rewind knob sort of moved. My first failure in 20+ years. Checking the cartridge later,realized it had difficulty pulling film out of canister.</p>

[colin_elliott]

<p>Mukul,<br>

The Leica Instructions are okay, as written.This includes their statement ".....and don't waste time trying to align the leader perfectly. The inner wheel on the baseplate will do this for you."</p>

<p> There is no need to "tighten up the film in its cassette" other than for your own, as you said "irrational" psychological reasons</p>

[mukul_dube]

<p>Colin, the same document also says, "Backward turning of the rewind is proof of proper film transport" after having spoken of "gently tensing the rewind crank". Only if the slack in the film cassette is taken up is the rewind knob <em>certain to turn from the very beginning</em>. Reasonable assumption versus absolute certainty. I'd say the correct word is "cautious".</p>

[Rob F.]

<p>There's a difference between tightening up the film in the cassette, vs. merely taking up the slack. The latter is necessary if we are to see the rewind knob turn backwards.</p>

[mukul_dube]

<p>I always meant taking up the slack. I do not see why anyone should want to <em>tighten</em> it further.</p>

[colin_elliott]

<p>Earlier postings on this topic have described tightening the film in its cassette before inserting in the camera.Perhaps, mistakenly, I assumed that was the process you were describing.<br>

Just to be clear, my method involves loading the film as described and shown on the base of the camera, replacing the baseplate and winding on once. I then rotate the rewind lever clockwise until I feel tension, the second winding on will result in the rewind lever rotating, as may indeed the first. If the first winding on results in rotation, then I forego any further tensioning. <br>

If the film is not caught in the posts of the take up chamber, then little to resistance would be felt.<br>

In the 21 years of loading my M6 this way, I have never had to remove the baseplate to "start again!". With this kind of experience, I consider it totally and absolutely foolproof. </p>

[mukul_dube]

<p>For a photographer loading a camera, to tighten the film in its canister is to take up the slack. I do not know why Rob F. sees the two actions as different.</p>

[denton_hoyer]

<p>Thanks MUKUL!

</p><p>I tried to misload my M6 but couldn't do it. I only made sure the film leader was in the petal; even if the

film was not in the rails, the pressure plate and bottom aligned the film after close the back. I think the

engineers got this one!</p><p>Denton</p>

[Rob F.]

<p>Mukul Dube: I had no disagreement with anything you said. Something about Colin Elliot's remark about "tightening" gave me visions of the film being cinched down very tight, which is unnecessary and could cause damage. To me, "taking up the slack" sounds gentler than "tightening." After all, we are only trying to see if the rewind is turning, which won't happen if the film is loosely coiled in the cassette.</p>

<p>Colin: the idea of tightening the film before inserting in the camera doesn't make much sense to me. It would just spring back to a more relaxed state as soon as you let go of the film unless you hold the film end, the cassette, and the core all at the same time you are trying to insert it in the camera. Sounds difficult! I put the cassette in the camera, the leader in the takeup, and engage the sprocket teeth. Then the pressure plate and sprocket offer enough resistance to prevent the film from unwinding after taking up the slack.</p>

<p>The difference between "tighten" and "take up the slack" is a fine line indeed! It may exist only in my mind. And there's no doubt Leica's way works; and no doubt there's more than one way to do it. I just seem to have to see the sprocket teeth in the holes before I'm happy (old fashioned guy). </p>

[mukul_dube]

<p>It is not so difficult to tighten up the film in the cassette (take up the slack) and then hold things in place while putting the cassette in its bay until the centre spool is engaged by the rewind prongs. I've been doing it for decades. This protects against the danger of the film end coming off the take-up spool if the rewind knob or crank is turned a little too much. There is no question here of right or wrong: some procedures suit some people, others suit others.</p>

[david_rosenthal1]

<p>Oh My God! 4 pages on how to load an M-6???????</p>

<p>Now it's my turn:</p>

<p>With the old roll out, I use the advance lever to reset the rewind mechanism. Next pull some film out of the cassette using the spool as a measure. Insert film cassette into body and make sure that film leader engages sprockets or is just about to. With back OPEN, attach baseplate, Leicavit or Motor-M (I use all three) so as to enable the end of the leader to be fully pushed into place. Do this without turning the catch to lock bottom piece onto the body. Let the back come into contact with the baseplate, Motor or Leicavit, then simply lift the base off of the body so as to enable the back to fall into correct position. Reattach bottom plate (or the other two devices) this time with the locking mechanism. Immediately turn rewind crank to take-up slack, then press release button and advance just one frame while watching rewind crank turn in opposite direction of the arrow. Trip shutter release and you're done!</p>

<p>39 frames on every roll of film! I own (4) M-6 TTL's and 21,28,35, 50 Noct., 90 APO & 135 APO lenses, (2) Leicavits, (2) Motor-M's. What's a "baseplate" anyway, lol!</p>

[mukul_dube]

<p>Unnecessarily complex. Will waste time. I found that the procedure described in the instructions is adequate, although I tighten up the film in the cassette at the start because that is what I have done for long. My original post, as a matter of fact, did not ask for instructions.</p>

[david_rosenthal1]

<p>Mukul,</p>

<p>Your original post was titled "Fear of Loading". That title would therefore inspire others to convince you, through a description of what they do, to ease your fear, or so I thought?</p>

<p>Although you may consider it complex, it takes less time to do it than to read it...</p>

[mukul_dube]

<p>Titles can be misleading, as anyone knows who has had anything to do with books or cinema. But yes, some do not have the time to read more than the bare title. I have no doubt that your procedure works, and that doing it is quicker than reading about it. However, it seems an unnecessary complication in that the simple procedure described in the camera's manual also works. I was, in my original post, making fun of myself.</p>

[david_rosenthal1]

<p>Oh, I get it now. O-K. Have a merry Christmas!</p>

[mukul_dube]

<p>Don't know what you mean. I gave up booze a dozen years ago and, being diabetic, must keep away from sweet edibles. The Sweet Things will be at home with their mummies and daddies. All I can do is share a bone with my dog.</p>