Trip to Yellowstone and the Tetons

[ben greenberg]

<p>I need some advice regarding a trip I am planning to make next year to Yellowstone and the Tetons. I am trying to decide between a spring trip versus one in the fall. The timing is obviously important to me. if I choose to go in the spring, would the last two weeks in June be best for wildflowers, snow-capped Tetons and other signs of spring? Will the crowds be better in June than they would be in July and August? The other option is to go when fall color is best. Again, timing is critical and I am wondering if late September is the best time for fall color. I know the crowds will be much better then. What do you advise and, if you had a choice between the two time periods, which would you prefer? Thanks for any advice you might have. </p>

[l_j_cappleman]

<p>I have not been to that area in the spring so others will have to give you that info. I have been to Yellowstone/Grand Teton area numerous times and can say that there is no definite time for the best fall colors. We are at the mercy of mother nature. I have been there when the colors started changing in the second week of September and, like this year, it was the third and fourth weeks. I left this year on September 25th and the Canyon Maples in the Snake River Canyon had just started to turn. The Aspens in some areas were changing and not in other areas. They had unusually warm weather later than usual so things were set back a week or two. If you have to make plans now I guess late September would be your best bet-unless we have an early or late fall. It is still a beautiful place regardless of the time of year.</p>

[johnolsen]

<p>I have been several times in the fall - late Sept and early Oct, once in the spring and once in January. In the fall I caught the leaves perfect one year and not so perfect the others. I think it depends on what your interest is first and also on your crowd tolerance second. If your interest is landscapes with the yellow aspens then fall is the way to go. However, most of the world will be there with you. My most recent trip was lowlighted with over 200 other photographers at Oxbow very, very early trying to get the best view of the sunrise. Lots of jostling and rude people imho. Yellowstone is limited by few roads and there are bison, moose and bear jams like crazy. The iconic locations are absolutlely packed with photographers. Of course the rest of the parks are still fantastic and the lesser known locations are wonderful. It has been a hot year there and wildlife comes out very early and late. In terms of trying to time the fall colors it is a bit of a gamble. <br>

Spring on the other hand is much, much less crowded. Yes, June 15 to 30th is usually bestbut it is different every year. Landscapes are different but great. Wildflower are a fair trade for yellow aspens. But best of all you get to see the baby moose, elk, bear, etc wandering about. And of course the wolves and bear are hunting the young elk, dear and moose and this can be observed in many locations. Much better for wildlife in my opinion. <br>

But if you want to see the parks in a totally different setting go in the winter. They are EMPTY and there are still magic landscapes and animals abound (except for bears of course).</p>

[johnolsen]

<p>I have been several times in the fall - late Sept and early Oct, once in the spring and once in January. In the fall I caught the leaves perfect one year and not so perfect the others. I think it depends on what your interest is first and also on your crowd tolerance second. If your interest is landscapes with the yellow aspens then fall is the way to go. However, most of the world will be there with you. My most recent trip was lowlighted with over 200 other photographers at Oxbow very, very early trying to get the best view of the sunrise. Lots of jostling and rude people imho. Yellowstone is limited by few roads and there are bison, moose and bear jams like crazy. The iconic locations are absolutlely packed with photographers. Of course the rest of the parks are still fantastic and the lesser known locations are wonderful. It has been a hot year there and wildlife comes out very early and late. In terms of trying to time the fall colors it is a bit of a gamble. <br>

Spring on the other hand is much, much less crowded. Yes, June 15 to 30th is usually bestbut it is different every year. Landscapes are different but great. Wildflower are a fair trade for yellow aspens. But best of all you get to see the baby moose, elk, bear, etc wandering about. And of course the wolves and bear are hunting the young elk, dear and moose and this can be observed in many locations. Much better for wildlife in my opinion. <br>

But if you want to see the parks in a totally different setting go in the winter. They are EMPTY and there are still magic landscapes and animals abound (except for bears of course).</p>

[craig_gillette]

<p>We've been there twice. Once a few days before, then over Memorial Day Weekend. Once in the first two weeks of October. We barely were fortunate to get from Jackson (Signal Mountain Lodge) to Old Faithful when an early storm blew through. Fortunately it skipped over that local area and closed other roads to the east and south of the parks. Pretty good fall colors but past peak for that year. Lots of animal activity, especially with the elk rut in progress. Sparring and bugling going on all over and a lot of bison and other animals about as well. Only saw one bear, at a distance.</p>

<p>There were more crowds for the June-ish trip. The fall trip overlapped the closure of a number of facilities in Yellowstone for winter although they were getting to re-opening the the lodge at mammoth springs for the winter. OTOH, back then, Memorial Day was the start/opening of a number of facilities/activities for the summer season as well. The only animal "jam" we had either trip was caused by a coyote in Yellowstone (although there were a few times that animals crossing the road caused delays and a couple of cattle drives in the surrounding country). </p>

<p>Both times there were plenty of animal and scenery ops. I'd expect that any "popular" photo area is going to continue to grow more popular and more heavily visited as more and more people follow the various photography, fall color , and spring flower forums and the like.</p>

[bob_flood1]

<p>Spent a winter week at Yellowstone a few years ago and took two snow coach tours. On each one, someone asked the driver (2 different drivers) the same question: what, in your opinion, is the best time to visit Yellowstone and why? They both gave the same answer - third week in May. That time is typically late enough that there isn't much risk of a major snow storm (there's some risk, and smaller storms will still interfere with getting around, but usually not for very long). By that time, the cubs, kits, calves have been born and are out and about, and the hibernating animals are out and feeding - a lot. And school is still in, so the park isn't crowded. I intend to take them up on this recommendation next May as I will be retiring at the beginning of May.</p>

<p>As you should have gathered, and like most everywhere else, timing for best fall color has as much luck as good planning to it. I've been there the last week of September (a year ago) and the color was excellent but not quite peak. Crowds are a serious issue on the weekends, but much less so on week days. So I hit the iconic places during the week and the more obscure spots on the weekends - worked out pretty well.</p>

<p>You should also have gathered that there's no bad time for Yellowstone and Jackson Hole. Make the best plans you can, and understand that even if the color and the wildlife don't give you full cooperation, it'll be a great trip anyway. Have fun.</p>

 

[zvia_shever]

<p>Hi Ben,<br>

Husband and I went to Yellowstone for 3 nights, then Grand Tetons for 6 mid June this year. Yellowstone was not too crowded (June 16-19) except for Old Faithful. We stayed in Dunraven lodge near the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. Don't stay in the Old Faithful lodge unless you love the circus atmosphere. While there, people told me the crowds descend on mass just before July 4th. No other area in Yellowstone was busy (and I hate crowds).<br>

The Tetons were not busy at all. Sunrises were superb as were the hikes. The only busy area was Hidden Falls at Jenny Lake....but not if you go early. We hardly saw a soul on other hikes. It's such a beautiful place that we decided to go back the first week of January to ski. Have fun.</p><div></div>

[huntrbll]

<p>Ben,<br>

I used to live in Cody, one of the gateway towns to the park. Here are the differences I see in the times you propose....<br>

In June it is going to be a lot more crowded, but if you like photographing many of the waterfalls in the park the water should be at a reasonable level. You can't say the same for a fall trip. In the spring you get a chance to photograph wildlife with their young, though some of the animals may look a little scraggly just coming off winter, depending on how harsh a winter they get through. Photographing wildflowers is an option in the spring, depending on your timing.<br>

In the fall, if you are lucky enough to time it for the changing of the aspens, the park can be a beautiful place, less crowded and the wildlife is at its peak as far as looks and health. In the fall if the weather is cooler, the steam coming off some of the thermals can be more dramatic.<br>

I've never been there in the winter, so I can't comment. But it is on the bucket list......</p>

[aaron l]

<p>Ben,<br>

If you can go during the "off" season, you'll be a lot happier. The crowds are thinner and you aren't competing against so many people to see the same sights. I've been going up there for many years including 2 trips over winter in the last 2 year. I've trekked into and through the park cross country skiing.<br>

Spring vs fall - go in fall. Benefits: you'll get snow instead of rain. You'll get to hear the elk bugling. Things are cooling down rather than trying to warm up.<br>

Spring benefits: you'll for sure have snow on the Tetons.<br>

Watch out - Yellowstone is high (7,000' - 9,000') so you'll want to be completely prepared for winter conditions. You can get real cold snowfalls in all months of the year, including July & August.<br>

Exactly what time of the year for fall color is weather dependent. Every year is different. If you check the Jackson Hole webcams, you can see that there are still a few trees with leaves. Most are blank. However, I've been up there a few times where the fall color was great for a few days, then a wind storm came through and literally blew it away. That was it for that year. There are never guarantees for weather up there.<br>

If you go in late June, be ready for crushing crowds at all the popular spots. You can get stuck in an hour long wolf jam.</p>

[ben greenberg]

<p>I want to thank everyone for their sage advice. I am always moved by the generosity of Photonet contributors and I try to participate and provide input when I can.<br>

This is a real tough decision for me. I don't have the resources to visit a location like this more than once. I love shooting in Spring and Fall (sorry, but my work schedule makes it almost impossible for me to visit in the winter, as several people suggested). Having been taking landscape photographs for decades (see www.bengreenberg.com), I certainly understand how difficult it is to plan the timing of such a trip, especially for fall color. I once planned a fall trip to New England for six months and ended up going at a time when it ended up being the worst fall color in the history of the region (my conclusion). This year, I saw the fall color in Shenandoah National Park along Skyline Drive go from looking like it was going to be a great year to an almost complete bust in only three days after a big storm blew through, and I stayed in the park for several days at a time when it is traditionally peak color. What a disappointment.<br>

I had the opportunity to photograph aspens in fall in Utah several years ago and got some wonderful images, so I certainly appreciate the suggestions in that regard. They are spectacular. Since I shoot so much in the fall (this year I am currently trying to capture images in my home state of Virginia where I haven't previously photographed), I think I am leaning toward a spring trip, but that is not certain. The big question is when. I am still unsure as I got input from mid-May through June. I am willing to go out early and beat the crowds to the good locations and go to the less popular places as well. And I love waterfalls, which are almost always better in the Spring, even though I have seen too much water make some falls much less interesting. <br>

So my personal debate goes on. I thank everyone again for their help. If you ever need information about my part of the country, please don't hesitate to contact me: ben@bengreenberg.com. Take care.</p>

[ben greenberg]

<p>I forgot to compliment Zvia for her beautiful image of the Snake River Overlook at sunrise. An absolutely wonderful version of an iconic image. Congratulations.</p>

[zvia_shever]

<p>Thanks Ben! It definitely wasn't anything original...done before a million times. But I was lucky with the wonderful clouds at sunrise and a late winter that left the Tetons with more than a dusting of snow. Our trip was mid through end of June. It's a stunning place, no matter when you decide to go.</p>

[ben greenberg]

<p>Zvia, I hope you don't mind but I would like to ask you a few questions, since you were there during the time period I am considering. Were there wildflowers out when you were there? Was Spring evident in other ways, such as the trees blooming and the like? How about the wildlife? Can I assume that the tetons were snowcapped? How were the crowds? I appreciate any details you can give me. Thank you so much. Ben</p>

[zvia_shever]

<p>The Tetons had a really snowy, long winter and late Spring last year so the wildflowers weren't great. Some of the backcountry trails, and even the trail to Inspiration Point, were closed due to late snowfall. On the bright side, however, there was so much runoff that the waterfalls were stunning and there was much more than normal snow cover on the mountains. Who knows for this year. From what I read, June -July is usually prime time for wildflowers...but....just like fall color, no one knows for sure the timing or the intensity. Everything was very green, and alive looking and we saw lots of wildlife; black bears, a grizzly, elk, moose, bison by the hundreds and even a wolf (but too far for a photo).</p>

<p>I personally can't stand crowds. We love visiting the national parks, but will do anything to avoid them when busy. It honestly wasn't too bad in Yellowstone. The trails by the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, Mammoth area, and Lamar Valley were non-existant. We encountered a few traffic jams in Hayden Valley when bears were spotted....we pulled over too and were treated to a wandering grizzly for about 20 minutes. We did encounter crowds at the Upper Geyser Basin, but most of them simply sit in the bleachers waiting for Old Faithful to erupt. DON'T DO THIS...it's a complete waste of time, and Old Faithful isn't exciting photographically. We went inside the hotel and obtained the schedule of the other eruptions. We only spent 2 hours walking the platforms around UGB, but witnessed 2 eruptions (Riverside and Grand) and got splendid photos of some of the colored pools. As far as getting sunrise or sunset eruptions shots, it's just luck....they may or may not be scheduled to shoot off at the right times. Not sure where you're planning on staying, but if it's in the park, try the Dunraven Lodge in the Canyon area. There are 2 lodges in Canyon Village, the Dunraven is newer, clean and has elevators; the Cascade Lodge is older and not as nice. When you book, you will not be guaranteed which one, so tell them you've got bad knees or something and they'll put a note in to give you the Dunraven (worked for us). The Canyon Village is central and convenient to travel to all areas of the park from there. Do not stay at Old Faithful...that's where the crowds park themselves! </p>

<p>Something else to remember about both parks is that most visitors are retirees or families who go for the main attractions and only "hike" the first 1/2 mile or so of any given trail. After that, you're pretty much alone with nature. And none of them bother to get out of bed early enough or stay out late enough for the best light. Even without shooting sunrises in Yellowstone, we were out the door and finished with breakfast before 7am, before the Japanese tour buses and minivans full of families pull in to the parking lots (no offense to either of these groups, it just that they're not conducive to good photography or calm nerves.</p>

<p>We only stayed in Yellowstone 3 nights. My husband (who is not into photography) was burned out after a few days. He said if he doesn't see another thermal feature for another 20 years, it will be too soon ;) Now you will hear different opinions on whether to spend more time in Yellowstone vs. the Tetons, so all I can offer is what we preferred....The Tetons, hands down. They were simply stunning, there was so much to photograph, hike and explore, and the areas, aside from fellow photographers at shooting sunrise, and Hidden falls at mid-day, were pretty much empty. </p>

<p>I bought a coupe of books that really helped with my photography, at least with getting me to the right place at the right time:<br>

A photographer's guide to Yellowstone and the Tetons by Joseph Lange (great info, but his examples where way over saturated in my opinion).....and<br>

Photographing Yellowstone National Park by Gustav. Verderber<br>

Be sure to call Yellowstone and have them send you guides to each location. I think they were 50 cents a piece and contained great little maps. </p>

<p>Husband and I and our boys were supposed to go to Costa Rica the first week in January. We had our flights booked and everything. We loved the Tetons so much, we coughed up $600 just for the airline change fees, and cancelled Costa Rica. HAVE FUN!</p><div></div>

[zvia_shever]

<p>In my long post I said....The trails by the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, Mammoth area, and Lamar Valley were non-existant....mean't to say the CROWDS (not trails)....were not-existant.</p><div></div>

[ben greenberg]

<p>Zvia, I thought I had posted a thank you for the detailed information you provided me, but I just checked and found I had not. So, let me express my appreciation for your help and assistance. You and I must think alike because I have already obtained some of the information/books you identified and I have also planned to focus much of my time on the Tetons. I am curious about one more thing. My budget will be limited and I was thinking of staying outside of the parks in less expensive accommodations. Will that work in terms of the distances I will be traveling to the places I will want to photograph very early and very late in the day? Don't feel like you have to respond if you are not familiar with this approach. Thanks again. Good luck in your travels. Ben</p>