krzysztof_kalukin Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 <p>Hi, </p> <p>Here is my workflow:</p> <p>1. Hasselblad 501C with either B&W negatives or transparencies developed by myself or in Q-Lab<br> 2. Epson V700 scanner<br> 3. EIZO S2433W monitor<br> 4. Photoshop CS5 @ Windows 7 64 bit<br> 5. HP Photosmart C6180 printer for smaller printouts at home<br> 6. Epson 9900 for bigger prints at lab</p> <p>Naturally I would like to have all of that stuff calibrated together. I do not have any specialized hardware or software. Before I try to acquire it, I'd like to do basic configuration available in operating system. <br> So, how should I start and which steps should be taken. Which color profiles should I apply to different hardware - I got profiles for my monitor (5000 and 6500 K), got profiles for scanner and for the printer. How to ensure, that I will see exact output from the scanner, process it by Photoshop and print exactly what I see on the display to my printer?</p> <p>Krzysztof</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patricklavoie Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 <p>1_shoot in pro photo rgb or whatever you can set.. more or less important there as if you shoot in raw, all will be take care in your raw software.</p> <p>2_scan using the film profile, or find a good setting that make it close to perfect but a little more flat and less dark so you can add contrast and brightness later in post.</p> <p>3_Good monitor, use a calibrator to profile it; spider 3 elite or i1 display pro. My setting are 6500, gamma 2.2 and luminsity 110.. i print all my material on my epson printer and on commercial CMYK press.. what i see is what i get.</p> <p>4_Leave the setting that are the default, change the RGB color space to suit your need and match what you have chosen in your raw developer software when you export; Pro Photo RGB, Adobe RGB 1998 or sRGB</p> <p>5_use the printer to manage your color print.. just select your paper correctly in the print driver.</p> <p>6_Let say you print via Photoshop... Let Photoshop managed color, select the correct and appropriate paper profile (should be EXACTLY the same as your paper choice). Turn Off color management or ICM in your Epson driver. Choose speed, print quality (1440) and again your paper type.</p> <p>7_buy a good book on the subject.. you are in for a serious ride ; )</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denbigh__france_ Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 <p>It seems to me that you have profiles for everything (except the camera). You can easily check if your end-to-end processing is OK by scanning a suitable target (see below), you would expect that the image on the screen should look very like the original (make sure you haven't turned the wick up too high, or the whites will look very bright), make sure that the scanner is attaching an appropriate profile to the image scanned, select the proof setup in PS corresponding to your printer profile. Print, using that profile. The result should be the same as the original image scanned in. If not, you are in for a bumpy ride to make them the same. Patrick has said it all.</p> <p>For a target, you can find plenty on the internet. You print out what you find on the internet. That is your target and it doesn't matter at this stage if it is what some calibrated and profiled person would see it differently. To try to use the most of your colour space, it would be better to find a target with a bit more than sRGB in it.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbaida Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 <p>"how should I start and which steps should be taken"<br> Please buy any colorimeter to profile your very nice monitor. Even old i1 Display 1.0 for $50 would work great, if the monitor is not wide gamut one. <br> It is indeed very good idea to get and print wide® gamut targets from internet.<br> besides, even though it is not answering your calibration question:<br> Get adjustable height holder for V700, preferably wet mounting one to make better use of your nice glass and big negs/slides.<br> For your scans from B&W originals (scanned as 48-bit RGB) use just (or mostly) blue or green channel to get higher resolution.<br> Use any program capable of nondestructive editing (and making virtual copies of 'zero' weight), otherwise you'll get too many variants to save and compare.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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