Canon 10-22 - Review My Photos Pleases

[d._pat]

<p>Hi All,</p>

<p>Just got my Canon 10-22. I would like to know your reviews of the photos and first thoughts.<br /> These are handheld photos. but my real concern is about the buildings angling a little bit giving a kind of fishy eye look<br /> <br /> <a title="IMG_3549 by Digvijay's, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/digvijayp/6019310554/"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6018/6019310554_b44f4d9a4f.jpg" alt="IMG_3549" width="500" height="333" /></a> <a title="IMG_3549 by Digvijay's, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/digvijayp/6019310554/"></a><br>

<a title="IMG_3547 by Digvijay's, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/digvijayp/6019310520/"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6134/6019310520_dc72198623.jpg" alt="IMG_3547" width="500" height="333" /></a></p>

<p>Thanks,<br /> Digvijay.</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>Just because a lens is a rectilinear one, rather than a 'fish-eye' does not make it immune to the optical laws of perspective. If you put your nose right up to the print, you will find the perspective to be true.</p>

<p>First, it's fairly important in this kind of shot to keep the horizon on a true level. Secondly, you can somewhat minimize the "distortion" by keeping the horizon in the center of the image (and cropping later to get better composition). Holding the camera level (not pointed up or down) helps too.</p>

<p>Finally, these sorts of problems are rather easily fixed in post production anyhow. In the latest versions of Photoshop, there is a menu selection Filter>Lens Correction. In older versions it was buried under Filter>Distortion, I think.</p><div></div>

[michael_young3]

<p>Composition is a continual challenge with that wide of a view. Try adding a strong foreground element to support or frame the more distant subject. Try setting it on a tabletop, so the tabletop becomes part of the scene; or right up against a fence or wall. I had some good results hanging the camera upside down on a monopod and firing remotely, so the ground becomes the foreground. Stuff it right into things, like a grouping of flowers, and shoot through. Avoid shooting faces at shorter than arm's length unless you're going for the nose-only look.</p>

[wayne_woodruff]

<p>As Michael mentions, try adding a strong foreground element and get up close and personal. <br>

http://2zars.com/photoblog/2011/07/golf-ball/</p>

 

[peter_rowe]

<p>The Canon 10-22mm is widely know as exhibiting stellar distortion performance, I am continually amazed at mine. There's a big difference between barrel and pincushion distortion (where straight lines come out bowed - what you get with a fish-eye) which would be imperfections in a regular lens, and perspective distortion which is the laws of physics and not related to a shortcoming of the lens. You photos show perspective distortion because you do not have the camera level (it is pointing down) this will cause the buildings to lean in at top. Try it again with the camera level and see what you get. Also, note that in your shot that straight lines are still straight lines - that is the true reflection of how little real distortion the 10-22mm has.</p>

<p>Congratulations on your new lens!</p>

[colin carron]

<p>If you want to avoid the buildings leaning in look then the rule is</p>

<p>Keep the camera level</p>

<p>otherwise the image can be easily corrected in PS. In Photoshop Elements you need to create a second layer by Selecting the whole image with the Marquee Tool thenEdit > copy and Edit > paste to create the new layer. Then Image > Transform > distrot. With the mouse pull out the top corners until the vertcials of the building look right. Once you are happy withe effect then click the green arrow (later versions) to finsih. Then Layer > marge down. Below is an example where I have also cropped some of the foreground.</p>

<p> </p>

[colin carron]

<p>Here is the image: The verticals are not corrected completely in this example as some small amount of convergence often looks more natural.</p><div></div>

[michael_young3]

<p>You would be better served by not fighting your tools. Learn to compose an ultra-wide angle shot if you're using an ultra-wide angle. Certainly you can fix the verticals, or use a shift lens to get the effect. There is room also to tilt and twist the view from dead square, deadly dull and centered. As with any other lens you might consider using, it's the light, subject, and composition that makes it a photograph. Choose the 10mm for what it does well, go crazy with the convergence once in a while.</p>

 

[d._pat]

<p>Hi All,<br>

I am extremely grateful to all of you for the quick and detailed responses. I want to thank you for all your feedback and guidance.<br>

As explained earlier, I just got this lens yesterday, and went to the rooftop for a quick testing. As there was nothing much around on the roof and a cloudy sky, I just went with it, nothing to expect much in terms of composition, image quality etc.<br>

To be honest I was little freaked out due to the distortions in the photograph and wanted to know if the lens has a defect. Of course, having no clue about the obvious characteristics of ultra wide angle lens.<br>

Clearly, you might have guessed that I am a novice, who went to purchase things that he doesn’t deserve. I sincerely hope to give some justice to my gear in future. I will be uploading some photos soon and will be back for your reviews and feedback.<br>

Will always look forward for your support and guidance.<br>

Digvijay.</p>

[michael_young3]

<p>I hope you didn't take it as chastising. I had a difficult time with it as well. Shoot lots, have fun with it, and find what works and what doesn't. </p>

[sjluke]

<p>I agree with Michael. I have this lens and I've learned to embrace it's distortions and have fun with them. Corrections are not difficult (in PS) if they bother you. I love being finally able to take pictures in narrow alleys (Toronto graffiti is beautiful art). Good luck and happy snapping!</p><div></div>