Starting new!

[christopher_collie]

Hey guys I just picked up a nikon d3000( I know it's notthe best but it's a decent entry level and it was refurb and in my price range. )

Ao far I have a tripod, just a basic quick release set up.

Polarizers for both my lenses( listed below)

Various random filters but no graduated yet

 

My lenses are

Nikon 55-200mm dx Ed non VR AF-S

Nikon 18-105mm dx Ed VR AF-S

 

My question is what kind of lenses would I need to do wedding photography? A little landscape and some DECENT MACRO?

I want to build a good kit for those situations, I have a good camera bag with plenty of room.

I am on a limited budget but am willing to save some for what I need.

 

Lenses?

Filters?

Hoods?

 

I can't get a new body so please don't suggest it. I'll have to make do with what I have in that section.

 

 

Thanks in advance everyone.

[eric_arnold]

<p>you can do landscape with what you have now. you didnt mention a tripod so that would probably be my next purchase.</p>

[bob_sunley]

<p>What is "DECENT MACRO"? Impossible to recommend optics for an unknown magnification range. What working distances do you need? OR, are you just looking for a 55-200mm micro nikkor lens?</p>

<p>For serious, ie: paid wedding work, a second body is almost required, along with off camera capable flash.</p>

 

[leslie_cheung]

<blockquote>

<p>My question is what kind of lenses would I need to do wedding photography?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Josh knows about weddings: http://www.photo.net/learn/wedding/equipment<br /> If you have specific nikon gear questions, ask here. That said, doing wedding/event business is really about marketing skills more so than shooting skills.</p>

<blockquote></blockquote>

[Rick Waller]

<p>I would buy a good flash that tilts and swivels. Nothing less than the SB700.</p>

[monika_epsefass]

<p>Ehem.... you're new to photography? Just wondering about the "wedding photography" - that's the master class which permits no errors, isn't it?</p>

<p>Just wondering...</p>

[kohanmike]

<p>Eric, Christopher did mention a tripod. For events, a mid-length zoom is almost mandatory, with a crop sensor body that would be a 17-50 f/2.8, any manufacturer in that range is a good choice, Nikon 17-55, no vibration reduction, being the most expensive, Tamron, and Sigma 17-50 with vibration control/optical stabilization very good for a reasonable price, or Tokina 16-50 bringing up the rear with no vibration control. A flash is pretty much necessary too, I have Nikon SB600 that does very well.</p>

[mariosforsos]

<p>At the risk of sounding a bit harsh, what you're saying is: "I just bought a refurbished/new Nissan Micra with alloy wheels. What do I need to race in WRC?" The answer has GOT to be more than "a flash" or "a fast mid-range zoom"...</p>

<p>You need another, better body (so this one can be a backup). You need, at least, two (2) fast zooms - a 17-55mm f/2.8 and a 70-200 f/2.8. You will need tons of fast memory cards. You will need a minimum of two (2) strobes (be they SB600 or SB900 - it doesn't matter) and the capability and knowledge to manage them off camera. You'll need light shaping tools for the strobes for when you mount them on camera. You will need...oh, need I go on?</p>

<p>But above all, you'll need to humble up and find a professional (or semi pro) who will be willing to let you tag along so you learn. And you'll need to do that again and again and again...until you build a portfolio capable of enticing someone to hire you... Only THEN you can think of undertaking one yourself and even THEN, I'd be sceptical.</p>

<p>Macro and landscapes are indeed easier...weddings? You're potentially messing with someone's precious moments...</p>

[Karim Ghantous]

<p>Well, like others have said, something like a 17-50/2.8 is essential for shooting weddings (I actually use a 28-70/2.8, same thing effectively). It's also nice to have a reasonably good telephoto zoom, e.g. 70-200/2.8 or in your case, as you have a DX camera, 50-150/2.8.</p>

<p>Flash is not necessary but it can be used creatively, so if you can afford one, go for it.</p>

<p>It's a shame you can't buy another body because it's highly recommended to have two bodies at weddings (three if you can). Go and lend yourself to a medical school for a day and get some cash for a second body. :-)</p>

<p>A good micro lens for DX might be either the 55/2.8 AF or the 60/2.8 AF. They aren't that expensive but they'll cost more than pocket change.</p>

<p>I don't think you'll need graduated filters for landscapes - you can take several frames at different exposures for HDR. Just keep that camera rock steady.</p>

[Andrew Garrard]

<p>To respond to the direct question, I'd suggest the Tamron 90mm f/2.8 macro. Partly, it's a decent macro lens with a good working distance, partly it's the shortest of the mid-length macro lenses, and would work as a longish portrait lens that can blur the background for you (which you may want for weddings) and handle moving subjects in lower light better than your current lenses.<br />

<br />

If this is a "what do I need to shoot a friend's wedding" question, then hiring a fast zoom might be the best solution; failing that, the skill of the photographer in timing and framing a decent photo is far more important than the equipment. What the suggestions here will get you is the ability to take specific shots in circumstances where your existing kit won't. You <i>can</i> shoot a wedding with a manual focus camera and a single prime lens, but you'll miss a lot of shots that you might have been able to get with more flexible equipment, so you have to compensate by being very good...<br />

<br />

If you want to get into shooting weddings, I'd try to apprentice yourself to an experienced wedding photographer, who will have their own kit. If you want to start out with what you have and make money at it, I'm afraid you're not going to be equipped to take the kind of images that your competition can take. Unless you're prepared to start with people that have low expectations (friends on the cheap) it's a hard industry to get into.<br />

<br />

For the record, I don't think I'm skilled, organised or equipped enough to be the primary shooter on a wedding. You really have to know what you're doing, because you only have one chance to get it right. That's more pressure than I ever want to be under. A friend just got volunteered to shoot a wedding with a D40x and the kit zoom; she's now borrowing my D700 and a range of lenses, but I'd feel so much happier if I could lend her a 24-70 or a 70-200 (I actually suggested she hire one, but it's beyond her budget). I wouldn't want to be in her shoes, and I've probably not helped by scaring her about it.</p>

[rodeo_joe1]

<p>"Flash is not necessary" - For weddings? I think you'll find it's <em>essential</em>. How else are you going to fill the shadows in full sunlight, keep the contrast between white dress and black morning-suit manageable or lift the gloom on a not-so-bright day? You'd need a pretty big reflector to cover a 20 foot wide group shot!<br>

What's not essential is throwing your money away at Nikon-branded overpriced speedlights, when there are perfectly good alternatives with a considerable cost advantage. CLS doesn't work well outdoors in bright daylight, so that facility is fairly non-essential too.</p>

<p>But we're really getting ahead of ourselves. Having any amount of equipment doesn't automatically make you ready for shooting weddings, or any other branch of professional photography for that matter. Serve your time learning at your own expense, or get otherwise qualified. With this litigious society we live in, you don't want to have the a** sued off you for messing up someone's unique and special occasion do you?</p>

[christopher_collie]

I think most of you have mis understood, I am

Not saying just because I have the equipment I am going to start shooting weddings. Of course I will be learning

under someone else first for a very long time. I'm really wanted to do some HDR, which I already know decently, some

landscape non HDR as well, some macro which unjust getting into and don't know a lot about, and I've always liked

wedding photography and would love to try to be a part of it.

 

I'm

Not saying I'm going to buy the equipment suggested and just think I'm

Ready. I have to tone my own skill set before hand.

I am just trying to get a reasonable idea of what equipment I need and why, so I can know how much I need to save

for the most part.

[richardsnow]

<p>Christopher -</p>

<p>I'll venture into this discussion having some background in wedding photography, along with everything else you mention sans macro...although I assume a dedicated macro lens would be justified.</p>

<p>See <a href="http://richardsnowphoto.blogspot.com/">THIS BLOG ENTRY</a> for my thoughts on just about everything you mentioned. It's my blog and I don't feel like typing everything again.</p>

<p>HDR relies more on your skills with software and a very stable tripod than your camera/lens. You can get away with your kit lens shot at f/8 - f/11 and get great results. The only thing I might also like is a remote release of some sort. I believe that the $15 ML-L3 will work with your D3000...you'll just have to be standing in the right spot for it to work since it's IR. If not, there are several RF and cable releases available for not too much out of pocket.</p>

<p>As for wedding photography... ... ...<br>

You say you'll be learning under someone else first. This person will be your go-to for equipment you'll be required to have. The few times I've hired a second shooter, I've required them to have, <em>at a minimum</em>:</p>

<ul>

<li>A NIKON camera body. I shoot Nikon and I want my second to shoot Nikon so if any of their gear craps out during the shoot my backup equipment is available for use without a steep learning curve.</li>

<li>A mid-range zoom. I don't care if it's an 18-55mm kit lens as long as they can get good results out of it.</li>

<li>A telephoto zoom. Again, I don't care if it's a plastic 55-200mm or a 70-200mm f/2.8 as long as the results are good.</li>

<li>A "Normal" Prime. For DX, this means a 35mm f/1.8 DX. For FX a 50mm f/1.8. I have been known to provide a second with a prime, but their portfolio was fantastic so I didn't care about their equipment as much. </li>

<li>A flashgun. Preferably an SB-600, SB-700, SB-800, or SB-900. This is for familiarity purposes so if anything craps out, my backup equipment is available.</li>

<li>A great attitude, the ability to listen to and carry out my instructions, and the ability to be invisible during the reception.</li>

<li>Skills as a photographer. I don't care if you have never shot a wedding before...that's why you're a second shooter. I do care that you know your equipment well enough to shoot on MANUAL, use a flashgun, and troubleshoot any emergencies you may encounter. I also care what your portfolio looks like because I want someone that gets a different perspective from me while maintaining a style close enough to my own.</li>

</ul>

<p>Hope this helps<br>

<br />RS</p>

<p> </p>

[Andrew Garrard]

<p>Understood Christopher - good to hear it! Occasionally people to post here, saying things like "I'm new to photography, what camera do I need to shoot weddings with", so please forgive us if we expressed concern that you might have been in that category.<br />

<br />

It sounds like you have a range of areas of photography that you're interested in. If you're interested in HDR and macro, it's good to hear that you already have a tripod. The equipment that you have is already very good, except under extreme circumstances (that you're likely to encounter at a wedding). I'd suggest you just spend time with what you've got, then find out where it's limiting you. The Tamron 90mm I suggested is a good and moderately cheap macro lens and an okay portrait lens, but close-up filters and extension tubes are cheaper still if you want to start by experimenting.<br />

<br />

Good luck, don't buy into Nikon Acquisition Syndrome, and don't worry that your kit is inadequate until you actually see the shortcomings yourself.<br />

<br />

If you <i>do</i> want to get into weddings, the fast zooms that people have discussed have the benefit that you can lose the background to make the subject stand out, and work better in low light than the kit lenses. Most primes will do this even better, but at a wedding it's often important to have the flexibility of a zoom.<br />

<br />

Edit: Richard posted while I was typing. I only know why I'm <i>not</i> doing this; Richard knows how <i>to</i> do it. :-)</p>

[Two23]

<p>Exactly what do you want to photo in macro? Photo'ing a seashell is very different from photo'ing a nervous butterfly. Gennerally, for macro you need a lens that can focus close, a solid tripod, an off camera flash or ringlight. The general principle I"ve found is that what specific kinds of images you want to make will dictate what equipment you need. The more specific info you can give, the more specific we can be in suggestions. I'll add that I just got back from Florida and took some macro shots of sea urchins, tiny crabs, and seashells I found on the beach. I just used a cheap Nikon 18-55mm VR kit lens with a diopter attached for magnification. Results were actually pretty good.</p>

<p>Kent in SD</p>

[Two23]

<p>Thought I'd attach an image where the 18-55mm VR was used with a simple diopter. The center is sharp enough, but there's some loss of sharpness on the edges. A better 2-element diopter such as a Canon 250D or Marumi close up "filter" would do better. I usually use a Canon 500D on my Nikon 80-400mm VR for macro, but didn't want to use that lens on the sandy beach. You can do some decent macro with one of the lenses you have by just adding a $100 attachment like this.<br>

Kent in SD</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

[eric_arnold]

<blockquote>

<p>Eric, Christopher did mention a tripod.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>whoops, didnt see that. well then, that and the OP's current lenses should suffice for landscape. for macro, the tamron 90 or tokina 100 plus aforementioned tripod plus a ring light would get it done. for weddings...assist a pro first. 2.8 standard and tele is pretty much mandatory, along with at least one external flash. you can rent before you buy.</p>

<p> </p>

[kenneth_cortland]

<p>Congrats on the new purchase and welcome to the world of those of us that have the photography bug. You have a great kit to start out with, and I would get used to playing around with different settings with the two lenses you have. From there, you'll soon find out that you definitely want to pick up a fast prime lens (Nikon 35mm f/1.8) for low light shooting w/o flash and for some subject-background separation creativity. You mentioned macro as well, and Nikon just released a 40mm f/2.8 macro lens that should be very good. Both of those lens should be under $250 each. You can shoot landscapes with the 18-105mm VR. It'll be good to add a circular polarizing filter that lens.</p>

<p>On shooting weddings as a paid professional, you'll certainly need a bit more equipment. There are a number of blogs, books, and educational resources out there that can give you an idea of what you'll need to learn and and buy. Just take your time and get used to the equipment you just bought. As you shoot more and more, you'll know exactly what you need.</p>

[Landrum Kelly]

<blockquote>

<p>I know it's not the best but it's a decent entry level and it was refurb and in my price range.</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>More power to you. I am sure that you can get some great photos with that camera. Although I shoot the 21 MP Canon 5d II right now, I still have the 5 MP Olympus E-20 digital which I bought in early 2002. It yielded some very good prints virtually filling 13"x19" paper, and it still makes excellent pictures. There were those who made quite a good living using it as a portrait camera. For weddings? Not so good. It was too slow--but that camera first came out in 2001. I have never shot a true entry level Nikon, but I am sure that in many respects all of the Nikon DSLRs are quite advanced compared to what we had just a few years ago.</p>

<p>--Lannie</p>

[dan_south]

- Shoot a lot.

 

 

- Review your work realistically (don't over criticize but don't gloss over your mistakes, either). Decide

what you need to do better and make a plan for getting to the next level.

 

 

- Be enthusiastic in everything you do even when it seems difficult and it's not working out as you anticipated.

 

 

- Take a class or two. It will be time and money well spent.

 

 

- Be open to learning and to receiving fair criticism. No one becomes a genius in a year or even ten years. Make long term

improvement one of your chief goals.

[christopher_collie]

Thanks for all the help so far guys, do any of you know where I could find a used tamaron 90mm for macro? Just

trying to save a little and the shop I work at doesn't carry them. We only carry nikon and sigma

[Two23]

<p>I would look for one on e Bay. You get a good deal on 3rd party lenses when you buy them used. You never said what you intend to use a macro for--a 90mm might be too short.</p>

<p>Kent in SD</p>

[christopher_collie]

I wanting some general macro, something for bugs, water on grass, Flowers the like.

 

 

I know I'll need a remote as well, and some

Other stuff but lens first

[Karim Ghantous]

<blockquote>

<p>"Flash is not necessary" - For weddings? I think you'll find it's <em>essential</em>. How else are you going to fill the shadows in full sunlight</p>

</blockquote>

<p>RJ, I suppose you have a point here. Flash is next to useless indoors (it kills ambience, so give me noise/grain instead), but out of doors it can be helpful for fill (in which case, one doesn't required a very powerful unit). I'd prefer someone holding a 40" reflector, though, which is not always going to happen.</p>