D7000 & 70-200 VRII Focusing Issues

[chris_weller]

<p>I seem to be having focusing issues with my D7000. I've posted about them here before, but I have never been able to really nail down what the issue is. The following photo's are from my D7000 with the 70-200 VRII. I focused precisely on the label of the bottle each time. </p>

<p>You will notice (based on the sharpness of the grass) that in each photo the focus is in front of the bottle. The first photo is at 2.8 and is very out of focus and the 2nd photo is at 5.6 and appears to be sharp on the label, but the depth of field ends right there and there appears to be a few inches in front of it that is sharp. I believe that the focus should be sharp 1/3 in front of the label and 2/3 behind, correct?</p>

<p>Anyway, my 300 f/4 shots with the d7000 have been dead on, so I didn't think too much about this until I started using other lenses more often. I have also noticed some problems with my 35 1.8.</p>

<p>Is this something that the AF fine tune would address? I've always been reluctant to try to fine tune because I figure without perfect analysis and execution I could make things worse. Thoughts? Can anyone recommend a simple dummy-proof af test?</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

[chris_weller]

<p>2.8 Focus on label</p><div></div>

[chris_weller]

<p>5.6 Focus on Label</p><div></div>

[hans_janssen]

<p>Use your AF-fine tune option.</p>

[kevin_chow1]

<p>Try the AF-Fine tune. The only thing about the fine-tuning is that it applies the same AF offset to ALL focal lengths, so if the amount the AF is away varies from 70 to 200mm, then it will only work at one focal length.</p>

[chris_weller]

<p>Does anyone else find it a bit alarming that with a brand new $1,200 camera and $2,200 lens that I need to fine tune the focus? Does this mean there is a problem with the camera or the lens or both? Why would my 300 F/4 be spot on and the 70-200 be off? Does that mean I would have the same problems on my D90 or is it a combination of the camera and the lens? This is confusing to me.<br>

Having to test each of my lenses at all these different focal points and find a compromise sound like a lot of work and I fear that I will find there is no real good answer.<br>

I can't say for certain, but I don't recall ever having these issues with my D90.</p>

[jose_angel]

<p>I`d say the focus plane is the same in both pictures.</p>

<p>Is this a continuous behaviour? If you activate the AF several consecutive times, does the camera achieve the right focus, or is always the focus off by the same ammount?</p>

<p>Are you near the minimum focus distance?Does it happen with the subject say, one or two feet further?</p>

<p>Is this a crop? Is this actually the real framing?</p>

[chris_weller]

<p>The focus behavior seems to be erratic. I was not at the minimum focus distance on these shots Probably twice the min. This is a crop of the image, so it would fit on this site. </p>

<p>I have other images with my 35 1.8 that I have similar problem. I thought it had to do with the focus mode. I have two images shot back to back in continuous mode (about 1/6 of a second difference), subject was standing still, where the focus point was dead center on a face (confirmed in view nx by the red rectangle). One image focused well behind the face and the other was spot on.</p>

<p>I have others of my daughter with the 35 1.8 where the focus seems to change from shot to shot in continuous mode. I didn't analyze thoroughly, but it's a problem.</p>

<p>My 300 f/4 with 1.4 converter seems to be spot on, though. So, I'm not sure it's the camera. My 35 1.8 always worked flawlessly on my D90. I bought the 300 at the same time as the d7000, so I never used the 300 on the D90.</p>

<p>There has to be 500 different combinations of focal length, zoom, lenses subject distance, focusing modes etc... This is exactly why I don't want to start messing with AF fine Tune. Having said that, I am about to take a trip where I will be using a bunch of different lenses and spending a lot of time and energy taking photo's. I'm thinking about just shooting my D90. I never seemed to have any issues with it. The whole thing is a bit overwhelming and disappointing.</p>

[elliot1]

<p><em>"Does anyone else find it a bit alarming... that I need to fine tune the focus?"</em> No. And it is not unusual. Be thankful that your body has the ability to make adjustments. Not all do.</p>

<p>The reason for the front focus could be with the camera, or lens, or both. Or their may not be a problem at all. Keep in mind that the actual area that the camera focuses on may not be exactly where the AF point is. I believe the actual area the camera focus on runs a bit lower on the D7000.</p>

<p>Fine tuning a lens is a one time adjustment. You don't have to keep messing with it. It only takes a minute or two to setup. And you can always reset if if you don't want to use it.</p>

<p>You do have the option of not using the feature and sending both your camera and lenses into Nikon for them to diagnose and correct the problem.</p>

<p>You may find this of interest:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=soPFToTnx9M">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=soPFToTnx9M</a></p>

<p>Part II: </p>

<p><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PYeqYycLGAE">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PYeqYycLGAE</a></p>

<p>Erratic AF is another issue. If this is in fact the problem, you will need to send your camera in to Nikon.</p>

[jim_ducey]

<p>This is why there are tools like lens align and Spyder to do the micro adjust for your lens and camera, If you travel and you camera and lens get bounced around a bit you will need to do it again. Some pros will check monthly or every 6 weeks. Zoom lens seem to need this a little more often than the fixed lens in my experience. The simple way is to buy the tool and do all your lens at the same time after you are set up like with the lens align ll.<br>

Duce</p>

[conwaygroup]

<p>I notice the bottle is empty, could that have anything to do with your focus?<br>

But seriously, are these shots handheld? If so any critical focus analysis based on them is useless.</p>

 

[ShunCheung]

<p>Chris, which focusing mode and how many AF points were you using?</p>

<p>The following comment won't help you directly, but my D7000's AF works fine on many lenses, including both of my 70-200mm/f2.8 AF-S, VR version 1 and VR 2. There is no reason why yours doesn't work properly. I think it is a matter of fine tuning AF and get familiar with the D7000's AF capability. It has 9 cross-type AF points instead of the D90's single one.</p>

[chris_weller]

<p>Thanks - I'm going to by the Spyder Lenscal or Lensalign MKII today and see what happens. Any preferences on which one?</p>

<p>@Elliott - You mentioned that it focuses a bit "lower" on the D7000. Do you mean that the focus point in literally lower in the frame than where the actual focus point is? If so, why would that be?</p>

<p>@jim - I'm surprised to hear that pro's check and adjust this so often because nearly every review i've read from Thom Hogan to Mansurov, David Busch and others, says that the AF fine tune is there, but it's doubtful you'll ever need it. Which to me makes it sound like one in every 50 lenses may need an adjustment, but certainly not your entire lens collection and every month?!? Yikes</p>

<p>@Shun - What affect would 9 cross-type AF points have over the single one on the D90 have on this issue?</p>

<p>Anyhow, like I mentioned I've never noticed an issue with my D90. I know that everyone says that the D7000 resolves more so you'll notice issues that were there on the D90, but went undetected, I'm just not sure I buy the fact that such a small increase in actual resolution (it's barely 15% I think in those terms per Thom Hogan), would make such a difference.</p>

<p>Lastly, If the camera and lens are in warranty period, does Nikon charge for the service?</p>

<p> </p>

[chris_weller]

<p>@Jim - Haha - I have a feeling I'll have a few more empty ones by the time I'm finished trying to adjust all these lenses.</p>

[ShunCheung]

<p>Having 9 cross-type AF points means you don't have to only use the center one under difficult dim-light conditions. On the D7000, you can use 9, 21, or all 39 as a group. All in all, it is a lot more complex than the AF system on the D90, and typically it'll take a little while to figure out how it works.</p>

[jim_ducey]

<p>The pros I am talking about are wildlife and travel photographers whos equipment travels by airline and car. I am sure a studeo photographer would have much less need. Usually with wildlife you are trying to focus on the eye of the animal and blur the background with a fast lens wide open and a fast shutter speed. If the autofocus is off at all it will show up in those conditions.<br>

Jim</p>

[chris_weller]

<p>@jim - I've had excellent result with my Bird Photography and the 300 f/4 with 1.4 on the D7000. I guess it's the combination of the lens and camera with the 70-200 and the 35 1.8. Or perhaps it's just the lens. I'll test and let everyone know.</p>

[chris_weller]

<p>To show how often people are using lens alignment - I called the three major stores in Las Vegas and none of them even stock any lens alignment charts. I have to order online.</p>

[chris_weller]

<p>To show how often people are using lens alignment - I called the three major stores in Las Vegas and none of them even stock any lens alignment charts. I have to order online.</p>

[jim_ducey]

<p><a href="http://mtapesdesign.com/">http://mtapesdesign.com/</a> is the company that makes lens align and B&H stocks them<br>

Jim</p>

[jim_ducey]

<p>The LensAlign Mark ll is a big improvement over previous ones<br>

Jim</p>

[mike_halliwell]

<p>Go & Fine Tune the beast...<br>

I guess if you have a tripod, a stationary target and focus manually with the fully zoomed 'in' Live-View, you'll know what the camera-lens combo is capable of at a certain lens zoom & aperture settings. Adjust your fine-tune until they look the same in AF shots... Sorted!</p>

[jose_angel]

<blockquote>

<p><em>Thoughts? Can anyone recommend a simple dummy-proof af test?</em></p>

</blockquote>

<p>I have never needed to buy any focus test chart to check focus accuracy. It`s as easy as to draw a line with a marker on a sheet... newspaper, printed letter or whatever. You can place a scale near the sheet, or to draw the line on the scale. Maybe I`m missing something.</p>

<p>With every new lens I own, and with every new camera the very first thing I do is an AF performance/accuracy test. I cannot say none of my lenses need a "fine tuning", but I can say that (my) best results are obtained without "fine tuning" my lenses.BTW, my VRII is dead on on my D700.</p>

<p>I still don`t know which focusing mode are you using, and how you use it. It matters. Continuous mode is not the best to check focus accuracy in a forgiving way (it`s the system I use all the time). In ALL the cameras I have EVER used, it`s perfectly feasible to get wrong focus if the technique is not appropiated. A few minutes ago I was shooting a few portraits, and as usual, checking how the pics I shoot without extra care are out of -perfect- focus.</p>

<p>If you know your procedure is the right one, definitely something is wrong in your gear.</p>

<p> </p>

[chris_weller]

<p>Well, I did some down and dirty tests with Thom Hogan's computer chart and a typed piece of paper taped to the front of the screen. I made sure I was parallel as best I could (using a mirror) and tested using negative zero and positive Fine tunes at 70-105-145 and 200. </p>

<p>All tests used AF-S - Center focus point. remote release in two steps (mirror lock up, then shot).<br>

Results - Negative - Definitely worse<br>

Zero - Seemed mostly okay<br>

Positive +3 - +5 : toss up between this and zero - It varied - </p>

<p>Generally the 70-200 seemed okay at zero but might be a little better with slight positive adjustment</p>

<p>I also tested my 35 1.8 at 1.8. It too was okay at zero, but tended toward positive adjustment - at 1.8 it seemed pretty clear it was helped by positive adjustment in 3 out 4 shots.</p>

<p>I honestly expected each lens to be a bit more out. Anyway, I'm going to order a real lens calibration kit and test again on Tuesday.</p>

<p>These tests seemed to be consistent with my findings that the lens/camera was front focusing, not back focusing (I think).</p>

[jose_angel]

<p>FWIW, I try to remember that when I tested the 24-70 (or it was the 17-55) on my D300, at the shortest focus distances the AF was certainly off. I don`t recall if worst at the shortest focals. I tried to "fine focus" the lens, but it was never clear where was the optimal adjustment. I think I first found it in plus or minus 15! After several changes and attemps, and specially shooting "real life subjects" I found the optimal results in the "zero" position.<br /> I`m not an expert in photo optics but my own experience makes me think that depending on the distance, aperture and zoom setting results could differ. In certain lenses, image softness wide open doesn`t help, too.</p>