Macrolite ML-1 + 80-200mm f/4 L + Close-Up lens - any good?

[gerry_morgan]

<p>Hi folks -<br>

I am very interested to know if anyone has experience with this particular setup (specifically this zoom lens). The instruction manual for the Macrolite ML-1 flash unit indicates that a very "flexible" arrangement is to use the earlier 80-200mm f/4 two-touch zoom in combination with a 58mm close-up lens. Since I don't have the earlier two-touch, but do have the 80-200mm f/4 L, would this lens, in combination with the ML-1 and a new-generation 58mm 500D close-up lens produce worthwhile results as it relates to the realm of macro flash photography?</p>

<p>Thanks in advance --</p>

[rick_janes]

<p>Optically that should work...Canon say the 500D close-up is optimized for lenses in the 70 to 300mm range, there's a long list of lenses it works with that seemingly have little else in common besides that and filter size.<br>

The ML-1 will attach directly to your zoom's bayonet and there's room for threaded filter-type accessories of normal diameter. <br>

That close-up lens is a pricey little devil, though!</p>

[awahlster]

<p>The 80-200mm f4.0L nFD has 58mm filter threads. Will the ML1flash unit fit that big of hood bayonet or filter thread.</p>

<p>Also since the front of the 80-200mm f4.0L rotates as you focus unless you have a slip joint in the attachment the falsh unit would rotate.</p>

[rick_janes]

<p>ML-1 directly attaches to the lens' hood bayonet, no adapter required. The lens bayonet is three-bladed so the Macrolite mounts in any of those positions, 120 degrees apart.<br>

The lens barrel rotates ~225 degrees (~5/8ths of a turn) from infinity to minimum distance, so you'd probably experiment a little bit with the ML-1's mounting orientation to get the light(s) just right.<br>

It's super easy.</p>

[gerry_morgan]

<p>Thanks for the responses so far. I see how the rotating front barrel of the 80-200mm f/4 L (and probably the original two-touch, for that matter) would end up rotating the flash head attached to the front bayonet.</p>

<p>From reading the ML-1 instructions again (especially *between the lines*), it seems like it was Canon's intent to have users adjust the magnification level using the *zoom* control, and with the close-up lens attached to the front, focus the image by physically moving the entire set-up closer or farther away. This weekend I will just try it and see how practical that is in real life.</p>

<p>On another note, a functional "enhancement" I'm working on for the ML-1 Macrolite is creating polarized thin film "inserts" for the two flash heads. These, in combination with a lens-mounted polarizing filter, should allow me to set the flash output wavelength to a 90° differential to the waves traveling back to the lens. I got this idea from looking at the Olympus T-10 Ringlight and its optional Circ-Pol filter that can be attached.</p>

<p>I may end up experiencing such a reduction of light output from the flash to make it not worth it, but I thought it would be fun to try anyway.</p>

 

[chris_dooley]

<p>Some of your questions have already been answered, and your description of magnification/focus technique matches my real world experience, but I would add a few things:<br>

The ML-1 mounts directly to the bayonet lugs of any FD lens with a 58mm filter and a bayonet lug in the 12 o'clock position that is notched to engage with the spring-clip that holds the flash in place. To mount to the bayonet lugs of a lens with a 52mm or 55mm filter, you require a two-part assembly comprising a "Macrolite Adapter" with the mounting lugs and a "Tightening Ring" that threads into the filter threads. The flash cannot be used on lenses that accept other than 52, 55 and 58 mm filters without a kludge. <br>

The 80-200/4 2-ring + 500D combination is really quite workable. The lens quality is quite good, and the setup will get you magnifications in the range of about 1:6 to just shy of 1:1 at working distances where, depending on your subject, you may be able to use the auto settings on the flash. I have found it to be a useful combination for things like wildflower photography, etc. in the 1:6 to 1:3 range.<br>

This system was really optimized for medical and dental photography, where the magnifications aren't generally all that high. Used in combination with the automatic flash settings on the ML-1, one could get pretty decent point-and-shoot results without a lot of bracketing and/or calculating.<br>

With single ring lenses like the 80-200/4L and the 70-210/4, you will have to contend with the rotating front element problem. The bigger problem, though, is that the ML-1 will not lock onto the lens unless you notch one or more of the bayonet lugs to accept the locking spring on the flash unit. In your place, if you were looking for such a setup, I'd be looking for a two ring 80-200. FD stuff is so cheap now that you don't have much to lose.<br>

About a decade ago, I gave Chris Rollinger a scan of the ML-1 manual, and I am sure that there is a copy out there somewhere on the web. It sounds like you have a manual, but if anybody wants a copy, let me know and I will e-mail it, as I still have the scans.<br>

The ML-1 is a great little unit, and unlike the ML-2, is not tied to an abandoned TTL system. I only wish it had variable manual output. Since I have largely gone to digital EOS, the ML-1 is one of the few FD items that I still use regularly. Indeed, it gets so little use, I am seriously considering divesting of my closet full of FD equipment, keeping only the macro stuff, which is much less platform dependent.</p>

[rick_janes]

<p>Chris, that's a good point about the ML-1's locking device. But even without, it fits securely on my 80-200/4L. If desired, a small piece of tape between ring and lens barrel would also enhance retention. </p>

[gerry_morgan]

<p>Chris, thank you for your very comprehensive and informative response. You've actually convinced me to add a two-touch 80-200 f/4 zoom to my lens arsenal. I'm always looking for a new excuse to add another FD lens to my inventory! :-)</p>

[robbz_fotoz]

<p>I dunno if this post is active at the moment ... I was hoping to get some feedback on how well the Macrolite-1 works for close ups for bugs and flowers. I currently use a Sunpack 411 which has the the ability to shoot from 1/2 to 1/16 power of the full flash ... I use it on a bracket off the body of the camera (Canon A-1) and it works fine. The ML-1 I am currently looking at is relatively minty, with instrux, complete, boxed. Is it worth ? Are the images illuminated normally ? I am thinking with two flashes on either side of the lens the lighting would be rather harsh.</p>