First Wedding Shoot - 2nd Shooter Questions

[philip_tam]

<p>Hi,</p>

<p>I've been booked as a 2nd shooter in my first wedding shoot. It's really a start for me to build a portfolio and eventually move onto being a prime shooter. I have a few questions though:</p>

<p>1. Roughly how many pictures do you shoot in 1 day on a full blown wedding event (dressing, ceremony, reception)? I have enough cards to yield 600 pictures (raw+jpeg), but I'm wondering if I need more memory cards.</p>

<p>2. Batteries for flash: how many backups do you prep/carry with you? I have a Nikon SB-600, and I have no experience with bouncing it in larger volume rooms... would it be wiser to get a more powerful flash?</p>

<p>3. Walking the aisle: Everyone tells me that the 70-200 2.8's are essential for the aisle walk. Should I rent one, or can I make do with the 70-300 f/4-5.6 that I have? I will not be able to preview the church, lighting situation, or such beforehand.</p>

<p>Thanks for any advice you can give...</p>

[pbalko]

<p>Each of these questions has been asked and answered many times. A search of the forum will yield more information than you might think you need. Nonetheless:</p>

<p>1. You should probably sit down with your lead and ask what they expect of you.<br>

2. I carry 2 sets of fully charged Nimhs for each flash and pick up a 12-pack of alkalines before every gig.<br>

3. A lot of "depends" here. Depends on the lighting, the size of the church, the church rules, what your lead wants. I use my 70-200 for alter shots from behind the guests and, usually, the 17-55 2.8 or the 28 1.8 for procession and recession. Talk to your lead photographer.</p>

[picturesque]

<p>1. I shoot between 600-1100, but I work alone. The number varies hugely, so don't even try to figure out a norm. It would be OK for a second shooter capacity to be 600 images. You can always revert to just RAW or even just JPEG if you are running out of room.</p>

<p>2. I have 8 full sets of Eneloops, which I rotate. I could get by with 4 full sets but I have 8 because sometimes I shoot 3 weddings in a row, and I use an intelligent charger so sometimes the cycle of refreshing and charging takes a while for a set. I typically use 2-3 sets for a wedding (for the main flash--I have a secondary flash(es), but I don't wait til the first set poops out on me. I change at the reception start regardless. I also have an external pack which I use sometimes.</p>

<p>Whether to get a more powerful flash depends on the ISOs and apertures you are using. It is always wiser, but whether it is wiser now is another question. You can probably get by with the SB600 using higher ISO and being the second.</p>

<p>3. Nope, don't use the 70-200 for the processional/recessional. I don't think you need one so I don't think you should have to rent one. I wouldn't use the 70-300mm either. Why do you think you need such a long lens, particularly if you use a cropped sensor camera? It also depends what the primary tells you to do.</p>

[philip_tam]

<p>Thanks for the replies everyone.</p>

<p>The only real "task" I have is to cover the groom during preparations/dressing while the primary covers the bride. Beyond that, the primary is being very helpful for me, and he says I can take whatever photos I want (and watch/study his style) so long as I don't do anything that would harm the reputation of the studio.</p>

<p>He told me that every photographer shoots differently, but his style is: 2 cameras (5DMII's), a 35 1.4, and an 85 1.4. The only other lens he uses is a 70-200 to get photos of the alter ceremony and the kiss from far off. That's what got me thinking about long telephotos...</p>

<p>Anyways, thanks for the advice everyone.</p>

[daverhaas]

<p>1) 600 + but like Nadine I usually solo shoot. The number doesn't change much when I do use a 2nd. </p>

<p>2) 2 sets of backups minimum Plus a Quantum Power Pak. The power pak extends the life somewhat because the batteries in flash are powering the electronics only and the power pak is powering the light. Problem is that the power pak only works on the 800 / 900 (not sure about the 700) </p>

<p>3) Not sure which "everyone" you're referring to - but I never use a 70-200 for the aisle walk - cropped sensor it's a 17-50 full frame it's a 28-70. </p>

<p>Dave</p>

 

[picturesque]

<p>Certainly a long, fast lens is useful during ceremonies, but you specifically said the aisle walk. That is different. With the aisle walk (aka processional/recessional), you have access, so you don't <strong>need</strong> a tele to pull the image in. Plus, if you are in a dark church, use of a tele without flash puts extra negatives up for you, such as fast shutter speeds to stop both subject motion <strong>and</strong> hand holding motion. If you use flash, you run into flash reach, red eye (due to the angle of the flash over distance) and having to make sure there isn't anything in front of the subject (flash fall off). Bouncing is difficult as well in larger, dark churches. You would be even worse off with the 70-300, with the maximum apertures on that lens.</p>

<p>There are times I use a long lens for the processional. However, these are very limited--maybe to get the silhouette of the bride and dad in the church door, and to photograph the line of approaching attendants and bride and dad in an outdoor ceremony, where they come from a distance away.</p>

[ianivey]

<p>I'd have to disagree with Jonathan about shooting more than 600 shots. When I've used a second shooter, I've found it irritating to have to sort through more than 500 images. And when I've been a second shooter, the primary usually wants a limited collection of images that supplement (and that do not duplicate) his, without providing full coverage of the day (which is his responsibility).</p>

<p>A truly excellent second, in my mind, will take 400-600 images that are very different from those captured by the primary (when shooting the same scenes) or that cover scenes the primary could not attend to. That's a number the primary can manage in post production.</p>

<p>But since this is your first time second-shooting, I wouldn't be surprised if you shot 1200 images -- you'll be experimenting and in some cases rapid-firing, just because you're learning. Probably, your primary expects this, but it's a good idea to confirm.</p>

<p>Unless you have a specific reason to do so, there's not much benefit to shooting RAW+JPEG -- consider just shooting RAW.</p>

<p>Have fun!</p>

<p> </p>

[rayt]

<p>One final thing to consider. Synchronize the clocks in your cameras. This makes sorting the images much easier in many programs.</p>