Shooting manual with Mamiya 645

[lisa_paul]

<p> If someone can please help me I'd so much appreciate it. I'm shooting with a Mamiya 645 kodak back and I love it ....but I'm trying to go full manual and I'm having problems. I was shooting av mode but it seems some images are a little on the overexposed side then I'd like them to be. I always use the correct ISO. Now that I'm trying manual I'm getting frustrated because what if I'm shooting a subject thats moving around a little bit and I'm moving with them.......my meter bounces all over the place when I could have got a good shot already. Do I set the shutter first or the fstop? how can I take pictures of children without screwing this up?I also took a picture in av mode and the same in manual mode .......the settings were the same? so is there really a difference in modes? </p>

<p> Thanks Melissa</p>

<p> </p>

[gregory_king1]

<p>Melissa,</p>

<p>I'm confused. I thought the point of shooting in manual mode was to essentially ignore those meter fluctuations and do an effective exposure lock at whatever EV you pick.<br /><br />However, if you shoot moving subjects (as I do), using an automatic mode will help. Adjust the EV compensation a bit to deal with overexposure. Remember, the dynamic range on your back is less than film, so it may stand to reason that the camera would naturally clip highlights that would be fine on film.</p>

<p>Av mode adjusts shutter speed to the correct exposure for your selected aperture. Manual mode, you have to adjust both manully.</p>

[lisa_paul]

<p> Hi Greg,<br>

When I shoot in manual I pay attention to the EV because its telling me my compensation, otherwise I wouldn't know how the exposures going to be. As for my av mode it seems unpredictable what its going to overexpose a little. It's so frustrating, its a hit or miss in av mode how some pictures will be. I do have a question for you? when I shoot in manual mode should I ignore the crazy metering? Thanks Melissa</p>

[gregory_king1]

<p>Melissa,<br>

Yeah, I hear ya. I think some of that may be the A-S mode. IIRC, the camera can be set to area mode or spot mode, or in "both" mode, it takes an area calculation unless it's more than 2 stops different, and then it reverts to "spot". Something like that. That could be causing the problem.</p>

<p>In my limited experience, I set the exposure to manual (and ignore the meter) if I need consistent exposure and/or am using flash to fill. Either way can work for you, especially since you have a display to show your results.<br>

<br />With my MFDB, I have to use an Ipaq to review results, so I'm envious. ;-)</p>

[Hector Javkin]

<p>If you are in a position to be able to measure in the same light as your subject, use an incident meter. Set exposure and shutter speed. You can then continue to use the same settings until the light changes.</p>

[lisa_paul]

<p>I kinda figured that would be the case, I have a light meter so I will use that. Just seems like everyones shooting without it.</p>

[gregory_king1]

<p>Well, you can check the histogram right on the screen, which will give you better results than any light meter, no?<br>

<br />I have mine and never use it. Too lazy or in a rush. Maybe just for tuning strobes when doing studio shots.</p>

[rodeo_joe1]

<p>I'm also confused as to why you're bothering to watch the camera's metering in manual mode. If you're just going to slavishly follow what the camera suggests, then you may as well just use Av or Tv automated exposure. And yes, you will get exposure variations by letting the camera choose the exposure - it's a stupid machine, not an intelligent photographer.</p>

<p>In manual mode it doesn't matter which order you set the controls. Set the aperture or shutter speed in any order you like, although most subjects will dictate whether you use a fast or slow shutter speed or control the Depth-of-field by using a certain aperture.</p>

<p>If you have a lightmeter that measures incident light, then use it in that mode rather than reflective. You'll find the exposures will be more consistent, provided the light stays fairly constant and from the same direction. You also might want to consider using a little fill-in flash with your kid pictures, that way they can run around as much as they like and you won't get a silhouette effect or deep shadows.</p>