D7000 focus setup - curious

[bmm]

<p>First of all - wow! I loved my dear D80 and will forever due to it being the camera I learned on. But last night my D7000 turned up and its and its wonderful. As people had told me to expect, huge leap in metering and auto-focus but in a size and ergonomic package that makes transition from earlier models no hassle.</p>

<p>Am really happy also with how the 24-70 (also newly arrived) pairs with it. Handles same in terms of size/weight/balance as my D80 used to with 135/2 or 180/2.8 primes on board. And images seem great.</p>

<p>Quick question though, out of interest, what autofocus setup do some of you use with it? I've currently got it set to 39pt dynamic 3D and am also playing with the setup proposed by Thom Hogan where one needs to depress the AE-L/AF-L button to activate AF - seems like a neat idea so I'll give it a go for a few days. Going from 11 to 39 points is taking a little getting used to in terms of the control/direction pad but I don't know if thats just me getting used to the more complex AF, or whether other users set the selectable points lower to simplify.</p>

<p>In any case I'd be interested to know whether anyone else uses the Tom Hogan AF setup, and more generally what setup/tips you might have.</p>

[kevin_chow1]

<p>I can identify with the change in AF points, as my camera prior to this was a D60. 3 to 39 is quite something!</p>

<p>I usually have mine set on 11-point AF, and use either 3D or a 25-point group depending on what I'm shooting, and what lens I'm using - my 150-500 reacts less well to 3D tracking than the nikon 70-300, so I tend to use them in slightly different circumstances. 70-300 + 3D tracking when I'm doing stuff closer in and/or with fast panning rates against somewhat uncluttered backgrounds, and the sigmonster when stuff is further away (I shoot birds, planes and cars badly). If the background is contrasty, I usually switch to a 25-point group regardless.</p>

<p>When shooting landscapes, I have a preset setup for all 39-points being available.</p>

<p>The way Thom Hogan uses the AF-L button reminds me of the Canon 1D Mk4 my workplace recently acquired - it has an "AF-on" button which cues the AF system while you hold it down, and I guess it functions for the same purpose as he uses the AEL/AFL button. I use mine on the default setting.</p>

[elliot1]

<p>The 3D focusing option works OK sometimes but I don't recommend it unless the main subject is quite different in color than the background. It tends to slow the camera down (when shooting sports) All Nikon cameras offer a variety focus options because photographer preferences vary from photographer to photographer and different shooting circumstances and lighting may require specific AF setup for best results, so there is no one correct setup for all shooting situations.</p>

<p>I generally use one point out of the center points which are cross-type. If I cannot achieve reliable AF this way, I will switch to 9pt dynamic. When shooting sports, I sometimes use 3D if the conditions are right.</p>

[frank_b._baiamonte]

<p>I guess it depends on what you are shooting really. I'll often use just a single AF point, and AF-S. As for re-mapping the AE-L button to function as AF-ON, I do that when ever I use the 300/4, but for shorter lenses I often just use the shutter button. I've set up U1 for the settings I like with the 300/4, including the AF-ON, but it really is pretty easy to switch that setting via the Info button.</p>

[paul_g9]

<p>I mostly shoot birds, so I either use single point AF-S for static subjects or 11 point AF-C for BIF. In fact, one of my user modes is set for BIF. It's set like this:</p>

<ul>

<li>AF-C</li>

<li>11 point</li>

<li>Auto-ISO with base 400, top 1600, and min. SS of 1/1000</li>

<li>EV +1.0 (starting point when shooting against the sky)</li>

</ul>

<p>That works pretty well for me.</p>

 

[joewhite]

<p>I've been using the T. Hogan method for a couple of weeks and although there's nothing wrong with it, I find myself clumsily fumbling for the AE/AF button far too often. My face gets in the way (which is also a problem when I'm on the other end of the lens...;)). I think I'm going back to halfway depressing the shutter release. However, if you may be more agile.<br>

Glad you got your new camera and lens, you'll like them. Enjoy!</p>

[brian_chambers2]

<p>One nice thing I have found is to set up your two favorite focus modes in your U1 U2 modes. I have one for landscapes that is single point non continuous and focuses with the shutter. The other for sports that is continuous and Automatic and uses the AE/AF button to focus. You can always tweak one for the specific thing you are doing. For example I like automatic for soccer but find 9 point center works better for baseball. But having the presets allows you to be close to what you want quickly</p>

[bill_brooks]

<p>Paul, great info. Thanks for sharing... will try for birds in flight.<br>

BM, you already knew about Thom's AF focusing trick before you got your D7000, so you were WAY ahead of me on the learning curve... but I can share that the 24-70 is pure bliss to use with the D7000. Do you have the MB-D11 battery pack? It balances so well with that combo.</p>

[michael_b10]

<p>What's the benefit of using the AE/AF button for focusing, instead of just pressing the shutter halfway?</p>

 

[bmm]

<p>Michael - the benefit is that whereas you HAVE to press the shutter half-way in order to go on and press it all the way, same is not true of the ae/af button. So in effect you can use it to focus lock and recompose very easily.</p>

<p>Bill - agree, from my first 2-3 days the D7000 + 24-70 seems outright awesome. And even without a grip, balances about the same as with a 180/2.8 or 135/2 which I am used to.</p>

[bill_brooks]

<p>The MB-D11 might seem a bit pricey, but now that I have it I am very happy with the balance and feel, especially since I sprung for a Nikkor 70-200 VRII lens!! (Still love sticking the 24-70 on for most shooting). Now, I just need to recover from my acute case of NAS. :)</p>