lightmeter with hasselblad

[laila_pandolfini]

<p>hi<br>

its time to ponder which lightmeter to get! ahh more stuff to spend money on ;)<br>

I'll be mostly using in studio with my hasselblad 503CX 80 F2.8 CF<br>

what do you guys think?</p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>An incident meter with flash metering capability is probaby your best choice for studio use. One of the Sekonic meters would be a good choice. I have an L-508 which also has a reflective spot meter. An L-348 would suffice if you don't need that feature.</p>

[BrianS1664879711]

<p>I agree with E. Ingold. Those are the two most useful features for use in a studio. Sekonic is a good brand.</p>

[ilkka]

<p>Sekonic 308 is an even simpler and cheaper meter that does both flash and ambient. It might be enough for your needs, at least to get started.</p>

[tim_ludwig2]

<p>Sekonics are great, but so are Minoltas.</p>

<p>I've used a Minolta Flash III without problems since the late 70's. Very accurate for both incident and reflective readings and also handles ambient perfectly for location work.</p>

[q.g._de_bakker]

I'll mention the third of the top three meter manufacturers: Gossen.<br>Gossen doesn't make a meter that isn't excellent, so which one of theirs to get depends entirely on what features you'd like and your budget.<br>The same goes for the other two, so you can pick one without much worries about quality. But as far as i am aware, Minolta does not make meters anymore, so to get a Minolta would mean buying used.

[ilkka]

<p>Minolta sold its meter division to Kenko at the same time it sold its camera business to Sony. Same old Minolta meters are still available new under the Kenko brand name. But only the latest models. Flashmeter VI, colour meter and maybe one more (Spotmeter?).</p>

[William D. Lester]

<p>I use a Hasselblad meter knob with this same body and lens. Works great.</p>

[wogears]

<p>Also vote for Sekonic. My L-508 just keeps on working, never drifts and doesn't eat batteries.</p>

[ilkka]

<p>The Hasselblad meter knob is great for outdoors and bright light, but not ideal in a dim studio. And it does not do flash. If you use couple of 1000W photo floods, then it should work okay.</p>

[laila_pandolfini]

<p>thx guys <br>

a friend of mine gave me a pentax spotmeter to borrow so im going to try this one out and see..<br>

do u guys like working with spotmeters? </p>

[q.g._de_bakker]

No.<br>Not that they are not good. On the contrary. But an incident light meter is so much easier to use to get the same perfect exposures.

[r_c16]

<p>I cheat and don't use a lightmeter, I use my little digital p&S to act as my Polaroid back and meter.<br>

I was looking into getting a pentax spot meter again, but the silly thing is they are overpriced and large and totally obsolete. why spend a couple hundred on a meter when you can just buy a p&s that has spot, center weighted, histogram, and full color preview of the shot? <br>

Yes, some people say calibration is different but with 1 roll of 120 you can just calibrate your camera, for me it is about 1/3 stop or less in some bright days on a mountain. <br>

maybe 1 out of 12 shots is slightly off for me, usually images with strong backlighting or super closeups but only sometimes. <br>

what makes me faster is if I guess what the exposure is going to be and it seems to sharpen my eye in regards to pre setting the apt. and shutter speed on my bronica.</p>

[q.g._de_bakker]

That's not 'cheating and not using a lightmeter', r c.<br>It's using a light meter that has an image recording device in it.

[photo5]

<p>My old Minolta IVF works like a charm and will outlast me. I don't need anything else for an external incident meter. Glad to hear they are still sold as new by Kenko.</p>