Turning off D700 Flash

[suzanne_taylor1]

<p>How do I turn off my D700 flash when I am trying to get my SB800 to be my primary and only source of flash for my portrait? I have tried many different combos according to the literature on the internet, but no matter what I do, my on-camera flash continues to fire every time my SB800 goes off. <br>

Thanks in Advance. <br>

Suzie</p>

[Matt Laur]

<p>The built-in flash has to fire, because that's how the camera communicates to the remote speedlight. In the commander menu (on the camera), set the built-in flash to '--' to prevent it from contributing the exposure. You won't notice it in the actual image unless you're shooting something very reflective. If you don't want that in the image, or if the signaling pre-exposure flash from the pop-up bothers your subjects, use the $13 Nikon SG-3IR, which is a device that covers the pop-up, allowing only the infrared part of the signal to pass. It can be helpful in some circumstances.</p>

[frank_skomial]

<p><em>"I am trying to get my SB800 to be my primary</em>" - then slide it into the camera hot shoe, and this will prevent the buit-in popup flash from being fully raised. Direct the flash head into a reflector white surface, white wall, ceiling etc.</p>

<p>If your SB800 primary must be a remote flash, and yet commanded by a CLS commander pop-up flash, the SG-3IR covering the popup flash lamp is the only solution.</p>

<p>Your other choice would be to use a radio trigger in PC sync camera socket, and a different than remote CLS mode of the remotely located SB800, e.g. manual.</p>

[dbcooper]

<blockquote>

<p>Your other choice would be to use a radio trigger in PC sync camera socket, and a different than remote CLS mode of the remotely located SB800, e.g. manual.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Actually, although the SG-31R is easily the cheapest solution for off-camera iTTL with CLS control, there are LOTS more options. A <a href="http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Flashes/4794/SU-800-Wireless-Speedlight-Commander.html">Nikon SU-800</a> in the camera's hot shoe will also work while retaining wireless iTTL and CLS control, and offers an additional Group © over the in-camera popup/commander feature. It operates strictly with IR light, so you don't get visible flash pulses. Pocket Wizard has some radio triggers that retain wireless iTTL/CLS control as well, the <a href="http://www.pocketwizard.com/products/transmitter_receiver/minitt1-nikon/">MiniTT1</a> and <a href="http://www.pocketwizard.com/products/transmitter_receiver/flextt5-nikon/">FlexTT5</a>, and <a href="http://radiopopper.com/px-system">RadioPopper</a> has a good wireless iTTL/CLS system too. A big advantage to the iTTL/CLS radio triggers is that they're not limited by line-of-sight signals from the camera (like if the flash is behind a softbox where it's 'blind' to camera-position light pulses).</p>

<p>If you don't mind cabling and want to keep iTTL and CLS functionality, Nikon's <a href="http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Flash-Cord/4765/SC-28-TTL-Coiled-Remote-Cord.html">SC-28</a> or <a href="http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Flash-Cord/4766/SC-29-TTL-Coiled-Remote-Cord.html">SC-29</a> will work for short distances (e.g. flash bracket use). If you need more distance off the camera than the Nikon cords give, there are these <a href="http://flashzebra.com/ttlcords/ittlcords/index.shtml">iTTL/CLS cable solutions </a>from FlashZebra. The iTTL/CLS cords can operate an SU-800 as well, and in some cases this can help overcome the line-of-sight issue while keeping the flash unit itself on wireless control.</p>

<p>If all else fails, a good old PC cable will work since the SB-800 has a PC sync socket. Obviously, a PC cable is neither wireless nor has iTTL/CLS capability, so the SB-800 would need to be operated as a manual flash. HTH.</p>

[mariosforsos]

<p>Matt is correct. The pre-flash of your on-board flash does not contribute to the overall light of the shot (if you set it up as Matt mentioned). In fact, if I remember correctly, it actually fires a millisecond BEFORE the shutter opens, so you won't see it anywhere.</p>

<p>Don't be afraid of that pre-flash. It's harmless. Plus, it gives you the ability to fully control the power output of your SB800 from a distance, rather than having to manually go there and adjust it every time.</p>

[suzanne_taylor1]

<p>Thanks everyone!!! I love coming here and always getting awesome answers!</p>