Is there any way to keep this from happening?

[rob_piontek]

<p>One other thing, if you're using an FX lens on a DX camera, you can use a longer hood than the one that is supposed to go with the lens.</p>

[rickeselgroth]

<p>Use a Carl Zeiss T* lens filter works wonders for ghost and flare probs.</p>

[hamish_gray]

<p>There are a lot of good suggestions here, but I would recommend photoshop. This is what I got with 4 minutes of work (clock ticking)...</p><div></div>

[derek_thornton1]

<p>Nice Hamish. Can you tell me how you did it? I was thinking that I could take the wheel beside it, cut, paste and blend it in.</p>

[derek_thornton1]

<p>Thanks everyone for taking the time to help me. Thanks for the compliments too. Bjorn Rorslett recommended the old MF 28mm f/2 AIS. It looks like they are going for around $450.00.</p>

[hamish_gray]

<p>Sure, here goes...<br />First made a copy of the area you circled in. <br /><br />Made a "colour range"-selection of the purple area.<br />Desaturated the marked area until it was grey.<br />Pasted it back in to the original.<br />Then I used a little of the detail from the neighboring wheel and cloned it over the hazy area where the purple colour had been. <br />I then used the healing brush to remove the white circle you had added ;-)<br />And that was it.</p>

[derek_thornton1]

<p>Thank you Hamish!</p>

[steinar_kibsgaard]

<p>I took Bjørn on his words about the Nikon 28mm f/2.0 Ai (or Ai-s does not matter in this aspect), and he is right, you really have to work your best to get flare or ghosting from this lens, and by the way it is so fine stopped a little down.</p>

<p>I also have the Zeiss 35mm f/2.0, but even it is better than most in that area it is not totally free from this - the Nikon 28mm f/2.0 is much, much better in that area.</p>

<p>But the Zeiss 35 has some other qualities, but that is not the subject here.</p>

<p>You can get the Nikon from Grays of westminster with guarantee, but perhaps more expensive than from e-bay.</p>