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AF-S Nikkor 300 f4D & AFMicro Nikkor 105 2.8D used with TC and extension tubes.


anders_stavland

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<p>I have read John Shaw´s excellent book Closeups in Nature. There he mentioned various method to achieve closeup photos. I am interested to learn more about how to use extension tubes combined with both AF- Micro Nikkor 105 2.8D and also the excellent AF-S Nikkor 300 f4D, both well known for their close up abilities.<br>

I am interested to hear other members of this forum who have had experience with combining teleconverters and extension tubes with these two lenses. Some will have experiences with the<br>

300 f4. and I have admired Ronnie Gaubert´s photos several times. His macro photos are quite impressive. As far as I know he use Nikon´s PN-11 combined with PK-13 most of the time.<br>

However I should like to try some of the methods John Shaw describe in his book.<br>

Especially where he explain how to use teleconverters together with extension tubes.<br>

When he place the PN-11 closest to the camera and the teleconverter between the lens and the TC. Then focal length is multiplied.<br>

The other way to do this is to let the PN-11 and the teleconverter change their places, then the magnification will be multiplied.<br>

This has John Shaw explained at page 110 in his book.</p>

<p>I have Nikons TC 14 E II teleconverter. This can not be used with my AF-Micro Nikkor 105 2.8D lens. However if I place the converter to my Nikon D300. After that I place my PN-11 (or I may even add a PK-13 extension tube) before i place my Micro Nikkor in front.<br>

As far as I know the AF Micro Nikkor 105 2.8D could be connected to both PN-11 and PK-13, but not the TC-14 EII.<br>

My first question is: Could I connect this way without damage the lens or some of the other equipment? I will think so.<br>

The next question is: Will this useful for my macro photographing? What enlargement will I be able to reach with such combination?<br>

With my telelens AF-S 300 f 4. I think I can use the same combination, and in addition let the teleconverter be placed together with the telelens. This way I could also get an 420 mm f5.6 lens.<br>

Will this be a useful combination?<br>

Thanks in advance for answers and comments.</p>

 

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<p>IIRC, the TCxxE -teleconverters require a modification if they are not used with AF-S lenses and I would assume this also applies to extension tubes, although I've never seen them combined with extension tubes.<br>

John Shaw's book gives you the formulas to calculate the enlargements, use them ;-)<br>

You will notice that the 300/4 is an IF design and that the 105/2.8 changes it's focal length when focusing, so the formulas do not give the right answer, only an approximation. Thus, the actual magnification is best determined through measurement.<br>

As for usefulness, the internal focusing floating element micro Nikkors do not necessarily play well with tubes, because they change their optical formula a bit to match the focused distance. A 300 mm lens is usually used in close-up photography for getting a tight crop of something 10-20 cm in size, not for doing extreme enlargements, so in those circumstances the lens might work quite well. In general, tubes and teleconverters do not really improve quality, but I think John Shaw mentioned that it is worth trying different combinations, as it is hard to predict what works. Having some goal in mind of course helps.<br>

None of the options you suggest would be my choice for higher magnification work.</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>Could I connect this way without damage the lens or some of the other equipment? I will think so</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Oskar is correct, the TC-14E II does require a modification in order to mount it to the tubes. Once you've made that modification, it's perfectly safe. What camera do you have? On many modern Nikons, you have no metering if you put a Nikon extension tube anywhere in the optical path.</p>

<p>And he's also quite correct about the effects of internal focusing and variable geometry lenses. I've found, for the 200mm f4 micro-Nikkor and the 300mm f2.8 AF-I (predecessor to the AF-S), that the results are best when the teleconverter is closest to the lens. The VG lenses have terrible field curvature, on tubes the center is good, but the edges soft. So putting the teleconverter first "preselects" the "good" center.</p>

<p>If the only converter you have is the TC-14E II, you're stuck, and have to put the tube first on the 105mm f2.8. Just like the 200mm f4, the 105mm f2.8 won't mount on the Nikon converter, even if the converter is modified. I'd put the shorter tube, PK-13, between lens and converter. Or even a PK-11 (not PN-11), just enough to get it to mount, and then go for the longer tube between converter and camera.</p>

<p>Something else to keep in mind. Increasing magnification with tubes decreases your "working distance". In other words, a 105mm f2.8 macro at 1:1 normally gives you a working distance of about 120mm (5 inches) from the front of the lens. That combination of a PN-11 and a PK-13 is a lot of extension, a total of 80mm. If you put a PN-11 and a PK-13 together on a 105mm f2.8, the magnification goes to working distance drops to 2.1x (which is great) but the working distance drops to 80mm (just over 3 inches). A 2x teleconverter would give you 2x magnification (you'll never notice the difference between 2x and 2.1x) and preserve your 120mm working distance. And, I'd put the image quality above that of the tubes. You can't mount a Nikon TC-20E III (or I or II) on a 105mm f2.8, even if you modify the TC, but you can mount an old Nikon TC-201 or a new Kenko PRO-300 2x.</p>

<p>Or, put the sort tube (PK-13 or PK-11) between the lens and converter.</p>

<p>The Kenko PRO-300 1.4x converter, between a Nikon macro and the camera, is a surprisingly high quality way to boost the magnification of the 60mm, 105mm and 200mm Nikon macros.</p>

<p>One of the advantages of the mixed tubes and converters approach is that it often gives better results than doing it with just one big tube or TC. A lot of lenses, like the 300mm f4 or f2.8, work better if you get some of your magnification from a tube, and some from a converter, instead of going insane with huge tubes or high power converters. Unfortunately, unless you have data on things like the field flatness of each lens, the only way to find out what works best with each lens is experimenting, and that means accumulating a lot of stuff, different TCs and tubes.</p>

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<p>You're welcome, Anders.</p>

<p>The D300 will meter with any combination of mechanical Nikon tubes and mechanical or AF teleconverters, so you're fine there.</p>

<p>I would recommend either the Nikon TC-14A or the Kenko Pro-300 1.4x. Optically, they're quite similar in performance. The Nikon is physically stronger, you will have more "flex" with the Kenko. The Kenko is more versatile, it can autofocus with autofocus lenses, but if your primary interest is macro, that really doesn't matter, and you'd probably want to stick with the stronger Nikon.</p>

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<p>Thanks both Joseph and Oskar for your helpful reply. I learn from them, but after reading them I get new questions. I hope You will help me with more answers. Oskar You tell me that my options are not will choose for Your higher magnification work. How will You choose then?<br>

I have also read about reversing ring. I have read about BR-2 ring and also BR-2A ring. What are the differs them from each other, and how should I use them.<br>

Thanks in advance for more reply. </p>

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