Orange Light?

[noah_bolanowski]

<p>My Mamiya RZ67 PROII wont let me take an exposure on the middle or "R" setting. When the shutter is pressed and orange light is illuminated in the viewfinder, which would signal that it needs to be cocked even though i had cocked it beforehand. Upon further investigation i found that the camera <em>will</em> fire on the Emergency setting, and the Manual setting. I've taken the camera apart and put it back together with no change and it still has the issue without a lens on. I've switched viewfinders, anything that could possible help the situation.<br>

It was working fine days ago but after i left the AE Prism Finder on, its contracted this issue.</p>

<p>Please help, Many thanks!!</p>

[marc_batters]

<p>Sounds like you left the camera on, with the prism attached, and drained the battery.<br /> You don't take pictures with the mode switch at "R". "R" is to rotate the back. Once the back is rotated, the switch should return to the centered, twelve o'clock position. "M" is the setting for multiple exposures. <br /> On "M", you can re-cock the shutter, but the film won't advance. For normal operation, the switch is centered.</p>

<p>Now, to the power switch. That switch is the collar around the shutter button.<br /> When the dot on the collar is aligned with the RED body dot, the shutter is locked, and the camera is off. <br /> Even if you have a prism attached, the power is off.</p>

<p>When the collar dot is aligned with the ORANGE dot, that is the emergency dead battery position, and only the shutter will fire, but at the default speed of 1/400 of a second.<br /> White dot to white dot is the normal power on operating mode.</p>

<p>Put a lens WITH a lens cap on the camera, install a film back with film, pull out the dark slide, put the selector switch to "M", cock the camera, turn the shutter collar on; see if it fires. If your battery is dead or low, you will get a blinking RED light in the view finder or prism, and an audible warning. <br /> If your battery is good, you'll get a steady red light, and the shutter will fire. For good measure, repeat.<br /> Just make sure to keep the lens cap on, and the selector switch on "M" for multiple exposures. When you're done, put the selector switch back to the centered position, and turn the shutter collar to the RED dot. Re-insert the dark slide in your film holder.</p>

<p>During all of this you may have managed to get the camera body mirror, and the lens cocking out of sequence. If you have, you can't put the lens on the camera until you get the sequence correct.<br /> See the attached links, part 1, pages 12, 13 & 18.<br /> http://www.cameramanuals.org/mamiya_pdf/mamiya_rz67_proii-1.pdf<br /> http://www.cameramanuals.org/mamiya_pdf/mamiya_rz67_proii-2.pdf</p>

<p>I do urge you to read, and re-read the manuals, with your camera in-hand, so that you become more familiar with your camera's operation.</p>

[noah_bolanowski]

<p>I read and re read the manuals and preformed this sequance. The shutter fires. It works fine on M.<br>

It doesn't work on the middle position though, the battery is fine. It keeps displaying the orange bulb when the shutter button is pressed without the shutter operation operating normally.</p>

[marc_batters]

<p>Noah, all I can think of, it's an issue with your film back. <br /> The camera is not properly detecting:<br /> A) That the film has been fully advanced to the start of frame #1<br /> B) That the dark slide has been totally withdrawn<br /> C) That the film back has been fully rotated<br /> or<br /> D) The camera thinks the film has been wound past the end of the roll,<br /> past frame 10 for 120 film, or past frame 20 for 220 film, (in a 6X7 back)</p>

<p>Do you have another back?<br /> Your camera is a Pro II. Is your film back an original Pro version, or is it a Pro II version?</p>

<p>I have had issue in the past in taking an original Pro film-back, forward to a Pro II body, but never an issue with taking a Pro II film-back, backwards to an original Pro body.</p>

<p>I'm going out on a limb here, but I think you have a problem with your film back, not your camera.<br /> Communication between the film back and the camera body, regarding the dark slide, back rotation, and film advancement, is totally a mechanical interface. The electrical contacts are solely for communicating film speed, IIRC. (speed not the issue here).</p>

<p>You could try exercising all of the pins, latches, and interlocks on the rear of the camera body, and the face of the film back. Install the back, and rotate it several times. Insert and withdraw the dark slide several times.<br /> If you don't have a repair facility nearby, acquiring another film back, (preferably a Pro II) and testing to see if the problem corrects itself with a different back, might be your cheapest fix and trouble-shooting option.</p>

<p>Sorry, but that's about all I have to offer. Good Luck.</p>

[noah_bolanowski]

<p>I just attached a polaroid back and it worked perfectly! it must be the film back!! Thanks so much!!</p>

[marc_batters]

<p>Whoop-dee-doo! Great news! Hopefully that's a bit of anxiety relief for you. <br /> I do hope that a replacement or repaired film back, will be all that is needed for you to fully enjoy your camera.</p>

<p>If you don't want to take chances with acquiring another film back from the auction site,<br>

you might try some of the following sources for used equipment.<br /> Adorama (a PNet sponsor), KEH, B&H, Mid West Photo, Blue Moon Machine & Camera, and Pacific Rim Camera. <br /> I have purchased bits and pieces, new and used, from all of these companies over the years, with minimal issue.</p>

[noah_bolanowski]

<p>Mare- i actually purchased it from Adorama. </p>

<p>It turns out the proII can detect if film has been loaded or not unlike my previous pro.</p>