Off Camera Flash and Reflector Help

[maile_lani]

<p>I have two separate questions, but both of them have to do with lighting :)</p>

<p>The first... I'm looking for recomendations on a good bounce board/reflector I can use when I'm doing my outdoor engagement sessions. I want something to block out a large area... I'd even like to be able to use it for formals at weddings, although i don't know how practical that will end up being. It needs to be easy to transport and not too heavy for my assistant :) I've seen some on B&H with stands, but I don't know what brand/color to get? There are too many options :S All I want is a giant shadow!</p>

<p>The second... My goal of the new year is to get really, really good with an off camera flash :) I love those shots where the photographer puts the flash directly behind the couple and sort of gives them a beautiful little glow :) I also want to just be able to position my flash far away from my camera. I know that there is some sort of remote that photographers use, but I can't remember for the life of me what it's called!</p>

<p>Thanks so much :D</p>

 

[dave_wilson1]

<p>A. Sounds like you want to practice some techniques of subtractive lighting where a gent named Leon Kennemer was considered the guru. As you learn more about the specific techniques you want to accomplish, the tools will become more specific exactly what you want.<br>

B. Pocket Wizard is just one, there are several good ones including old used Quantum "radio slaves" that can be found at a good price. My stuff is all pretty old so, some other folks using the newest gadgets I'm sure will explain them.</p>

[savagesax]

First question - I use a fold up windshield reflector that you can pick up for about $5 to $10 at a car wash or your local auto parts center. Sure you can buy something from a photo store for $60 or more, but this device works just fine and it folds up nicely. I spray painted one side white to soften the reflection.

 

Early in November I photographed an Indian wedding reception in a back yard. The reception was very dark, just the dJ lights were on. No high ASA/ISO camera in the world would have worked. The background would have simply been black. As we all know people with dark hair blend right into a dark background so you can't tell the background from the head of the person. This is one of many key elements that separates the pros from your everyday shooters, with little or no experience with controlling light. This comment is not to upset anyone reading this. I simply believe lighting used correctly is the difference between a winning shot or something Uncle Bob could have taken.

 

Added to this there wasn't any place for me to plug into an outlit. Sounds scary, knowing your photo's will look really dark. Well I built a really cool battery pack with an inverter several years ago, which allows you to plug in any type of mono light, such as White Lightnings, Alien Bee's, Photogenic, it doen't matter. Mine may be on the market sometime this year. Anyway, this will allow you to light up a dance floor, use a second light to gain those a beautiful portrait, instead of just the on camera flash unit. Write to me off line for information. A reminder, I'm not selling these to the public yet. If I can get 30 orders I will make them for anyone on PN at at cost, however you have to be a paid member. If I get some orders I start advertising on PN.

 

As for your second question, I would suggest buying a Vivitar 285 or a 283. These are very inexpensive, under $100.

 

You can put a light in back of the brides head facing the bride, then fire the Vivitar at full power and this will light up her veil like the sun is beaming on it. This is referred to as "back lighting." (How do you get the Vivitar to fire?)

 

Well there are really only 2 ways to fire a Vivitar or any other strobe, optical or radio. Lets talk briefly about optical. These work well as long as the optical sensor can see your flash fire. I don't like these because anyone with a flash can trigger your optical flash unit and you may not get the shot, yet the person with the $5 disposable camera got your great shot. They don't work very well when the sun is out.

 

The second is a radio slave, which works on a short radio frequency. Perhaps the length of 2 football fields. This of course depends on many factors such as batteries, the type of antenna and of course the who makes them. I am using the Pocket Wizards (PW's) and have for many years now. No failures to speak of, even after dropping them a few times. They still work well and I've never sent them in for repair or service.

 

There are many radio slave brands. The ones on Ebay seem to work most of the time. They cost about $30 or so. The problem I've heard is sometimes they misfire or don't fire at all. For me I don't want to try them. If I'm photographing something important and the radio slave misfires I've lost that moment.

 

There are 2 other very good brands. Quantum Instruments and if you go to the White Lightning website they have excellent radio slaves at a very decent price. They aren't $30. Pocket Wizards cost a lot more. The White Lightning units are called Cyber Sync. If I didn't already have the Wizards I buy the Cyber Syncs. They are less expensive than PW's and much better than the Ebay ones.

 

When you are in a rush without any help at a wedding carrying a small stand with a Vivitar flash on it is a lot faster then using a reflector. Now days speed is everything. If you take 3000 shots and another photographer shoots 2000 images the bride may hire you because more is better. At least thats what they think. By the way, Vivitar flash units aren't the only flash units you can use. They are simply cheap and rock solid. You can use a spare 580 Canon flash if you wish. As long as the flash has the radio slave cord attachment.

 

Anyway, you can fire as many strobes as you wish, as long as you have a slave unit connected to each flash/strobe.

 

The included image actually has 2 flash units firing in the background. It almost looks like a daytime shot.

 

Hope this helps.<div></div>

[picturesque]

<p>I am confused by what you want for the reflector. What do you want to do with it? If you want to block light, the 'blocker' would be black, usually, although you can use any color blocker in a pinch, even opaque white. Transluscent white would cut down light but pass some through. You can find 5'x7' white, pop up backgrounds if you want something really large, and 5'x7' transluscent cutters on e-bay. You will really need your assistants, though, even at an engagement session, because these pop up things can be unwieldy, and any wind will knock them down.</p>

<p>If you mean more of the standard type of reflector, they are available up to about 48", either round or square with round corners, or rectangular. You can also get 4'x6' reflectors. Color depends on what you want to do with them. Or you can get those 5-in-1 kits and have options in one kit.</p>

<p>The Lastolite triangular shaped, semi-rigid ones are also great if you need to use them without assistants sometimes. You need to tell us how you want to use them.</p>

<p>As for triggers for off camera work, if you have two capable flashes that use either the Nikon or Canon wireless system, the simplest is to start using it, although these systems have their problems. If you want to jump into triggers right away, do your research. You will need to figure out whether you want 'dumb' triggers or ones that will work with the Nikon or Canon wireless system, but more efficiently and reliably. These are not cheap. What do you have in the way of flash units now?</p>

[john_deerfield]

<p>In terms of reflectors/diffusers/scrims, the bigger the better. However, if going with something larger than 42", I recommend using a frame panel and NOT a collapsible (foldable) type of unit:<br>

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/302193-REG/Lastolite_LL_LR81243_Medium_Skylite_Kit_White_Silver.html</p>

<p>The same size in a "collapsible" reflector is a real bear to manage even with an assistant. And I really recommend the larger size. 42" is cutting it pretty small for a two person shot. A reflector reflects light back onto your subject. White is more diffused, silver has more pop/specularity, and color (gold, sunshine) will reflect back that particular color for effect. A diffuser will simply diffuse light passing through it, typically sunlight. Finally, a black reflector would be used for subtractive lighting. Imagine a very cloudy day with flat lighting. You can now use a black reflector on one side to essentially add shadow and shape.</p>

<p>In terms of wireless flash triggers, the two I would investigate would be the Pocket Wizards or the Cyber Syncs. </p>

[booray]

<p>I use a Lumopro compact lightstand (about 19 inches collapsed) with a Zumbrella for my off-camera light. I have never used a reflector unless you count bouncing flash off a wall, etc. :)<br>

<img src="http://www.boolog.com/web/wedding.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="600" /><br>

I was using Cybersyncs for my radio remotes but have recently switched to the new Pocket Wizards with TTL. I spend so much time shooting in the 10 minute window of perfect light (lots of beach weddings and portraits here in Tampa) that the speed of the PW's allows me to get more setups. Also, being able to adjust the remote flash power from the camera is heaven since you can adjust the backlight quickly without having to walk over to the flash.<br>

<img src="http://www.boolog.com/web/family.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="400" /><br>

If you are on a tight budget (and who isn't) You can't go wrong with the Cybersyncs. They have never failed me. The Lumpro flash from Midwest Photo Exchange is a solid off-camera light for "dumb-fire" use and has a built-in optical slave. If you want to use the PW remotes with TTL you will need a TTL flash. Also, I don't know if they have released the Nikon version yet (mine is Canon)</p>

[cliff_nj]

<p>To learn about off camera flash, try www.strobist.com<br>

Pocketwizards are the industry standard for triggering IMHO.</p>