5D MKII

[fotograf]

<p>I've been shooting with Canon's EOS 1V body for several years, and shoot chromes-slide film. Would like to move up to the 5D MKII body next year and wanted to know some advice on the best settings for this body. I know the MKIII is possibly coming out next year but I'm not interested as the MKII seems to be totally fine with resolution, etc.<br>

I usually shoot at certain apertures for portrait work using the 135mm f/2L and 50mm 1.2L at wider apertures. I saw a body at a local camera store and I guess RAW setting is best for photos a person wants to play with in Photoshop, but what other tips can you all recommend for someone starting out with this FF body? I usually have an 81A filter on the lenses, and when I've had the slides scanned, it would be at high resolution since I like very colory and contrasty images.</p>

[photos of hans koot]

<p>Basically its simple Brian, Just shoot RAW and learn your way through it. All settings you like can be applied in the RAW editor or photoshop. As you are used with postprocessing you will find it more easy and enjoybale working with RAW. then working with scanned slides. (I changed some years ago). I use most lightroom at the moment. you can try this a while for free to see if it suits you.</p>

<p>I advise you first to learn to work with the histogram, which is essential for good digital shooting. You need to be able to work well with it while shooting (so in the lcd put also the histogram, exposure is sufficient) and in the postprocessing. You best look at the web to find out, otherwise I will have to write a tutorial here... :-)<br>

good decision cheers!</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>I'd only amend Hans' comments by suggesting that you might want to shoot RAW plus large jpg.<br>

When you shoot RAW +jpg, you could consider the jpg to be your 'print', but the RAW file is a little like a 'negative' that you can use to pull off various kinds of manipulation of the image, and since the full data are all kept that way, you can do many things with it from simple tasks like adjusting exposure to a whole new digital world.</p>

<p>Otherwise, you really don't need filters like the 81A, since that can be done in the settings once you get to learn the camera and post processing. However, some things like polarizing filters can't easily be done in post processing, and a graduated neutral density Cokin-style filter can be handy on occasion for things like very bright sky and dark foreground.</p>

[dcstep]

<p>The key to maximizing your dynamic range with digital is to realize it's not the same as slide film. You want to "expose to the right" of the histogram, only avoiding blowing out highlights. In RAW conversion you adjust the brightness level down, but you will have preserved much more detail in the shadows and dark areas. The jpeg out of the camera will look overexposed, but that's not important because you'll be shooting in RAW to maximize your dynamci range, etc.<br>

You can turn on "blinkies" in the preview mode that'll show you any areas that are overexposed to the point of blowout or under exposed such that there are no details. Turn these on and set your preview so that it also shows the historgram. Once you learn to use these aids you'll be loaded with tons of new information.</p>

<p>Oh, since you'll be shooting in RAW, white balance will not be something to worry about much. You can always adjust WB in RAW conversion. This is amazingly convenient as you move from room to room when shooting an event like a wedding.</p>

[dallalb]

<p>Brian, I've just moved from an EOS 3 film camera to the 5D II and the latter seems the "natural" transition from analog to digital to me... I can only confirm all the suggestions the others gave you about exposure, dynamic range, RAW capture, etc. You will be pleased with the new camera and your "film background" will be very useful!<br>

I was surprised in particular by the shallow DOF the full frame sensor provides in comparison with film, but this can be a good news for your portrait works! But shooting with yours 135mm f/2L and 50mm 1.2L at full aperture can be critic about focusing!<br>

Regards, Alberto.</p>

[markonestudios]

Good advice all round, Brian. You have some stellar glass to boot. Just get the body, read the manual (a lot of it is boilerplate but you can get some useful hints and tips). Ultimately, I have found that my most rewarding advances in digital photography have been, as during my film days, when I go out and shoot.

<p>The 5D2 is a superb camera. I use Lightroom 3 now for my post-processing work. It is a powerful digital darkroom.

<p>Lest I forget, I did buy <a href='http://www.zagg.com'>an LCD protector </a> for my 5D2, which is something your 1V didn't need :)

[dcstep]

<p>Good points.</p>

<p>Your digital darkroom is as important as your film darkroom was. I use DxO's Optics Pro 6.5.2 It's available for free trial. It's a powerful RAW conversion software that adjusts for the distortions (geometric, chromatic abberation, vignetting) of your zoom lenses at every aperture and every focal length. It works in a batch mode and it's very easy to set up presets for your favorite combination of saturation, contrast, sharpness and brightness.<br>

I highly recommend that you consider two or three of the top digital darkrooms at this point in you digital development (pun intended). ;-)</p>