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Fujica AX-5 problem


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<p>If the not-exposed piece is at the top of the image, that means it was at the bottom of the film. (Remember that lenses invert the image.) In that case, it's got to be the shutter. Unless you shot with electronic flash above the X-sync shutter speed, in which case it's "user error".</p>

 

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<p>In any case</p>

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<p>Should I lube the mirror?</p>

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<p>are words to strike terror into the hearts of people who love old cameras.</p>

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<p>And how should I do that?</p>

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<p>the correct answer is DON'T. It's not true that there are no parts of a camera that can be lubricated by the owner, but it ought to be. More cameras have been shunted off this mortal coil by 3-in-1 oil or Mr. Wrench, probably, than by any other cause (estimate).<br /> IF it is the shutter, sometimes a nearly microscopic amount of naphtha (lighter fluid) in the channels (NOT on the shutter itself! ! !) can loosen up a shutter that has got sticky through disuse. Often just "exercise" alone - working the shutter through its speeds -- can help. I suppose if the batteries work, just set different speeds and fire and 'advance' and fire again. If that doesn't do it, then it needs more help than you are likely to be able to do without professional help, as Bueh says.</p>

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<p>I'm sure its the top of the film, so the bottom of the image. The mirror is obviously not flipping up fast enough, which can be seen trough the back at 1/125th of a second or faster. I also found out that if you keep the camera straight, the mirror doesn't even get to the top (I can put my finger between it and the mirror won't even touch my finger). Could this be fixed?</p>
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<p>I have (and use) several AX cameras, and haven't yet experienced this problem. It does seem like a lazy mirror, since the AX series use horizontally travelling cloth shutters, which couldn't give this effect.</p>

<p>Often the mirror bumper foam can beccome sticky, and in a bad case may cause the mirror to stick up. Also, these cameras are a bit prone to shutter tapering .This is usually quite noticeable at speeds faster than 1/125. It is usually - but not always - fixed with a full service. However it has been reported that a capacitor in the timing circuit can die and is not repairable. I haven't had that happen <em>yet</em>.</p>

<p>However, unless you have an investment in quality <em>Fujinon</em> X mount lenses I would suggest that it is not generally economic to service an AX, but the decision may not simply be based on cost. Given the age and temperamental nature of the AX series, buying another one does not guarantee getting a problem-free one.The only reason I haven't scrapped a handful of AX3s and AX5s is because I own a variety of excellent Fujinon lenses which I could not afford to replace in another brand.</p>

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<p>I just something really stupid... I dropped a tiny drop of oil (the size of a breadcrumb) on the hinge of the mirror. But guess what! It worked, the mirror flips up faster than ever and I don't see a black bar through the back of the camera anymore. Unfortunately, I already noticed another problem (before I did the oil thing). If I leave my camera for a day or so and than take a "picture" at 1/1000th of a second while looking through the back, nothing can be seen. 1/500th works fine if I try, and when I switch back to 1/1000th, 1/1000th works too. The image I then see through the back is noticeably darker than at 1/500th. Are the curtains sticky or something, needing the shutter to be tripped a couple of times before it really works well?</p>
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<p>Matthijs - the problem with the shutter can only be reliably fixed by having the camera serviced (CLA'd). It is a common problem with the AX series and, in my opinion (see above) is not warranted unless you have a collection of 'valuable' Fujinon lenses. Depending where you are, a service can cost $70 to $150. If the mirror hinge was so stiff to cause a problem, it is inevitable that ither finely-tuned parts are similarly in need of lubrication too: a drop of oil in the wrong places will probably cause other problems in the longer term.</p>
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<p>Alan - Since i'm only 16 years old I don't want to pay that much for a CLA if I can just by a new (well, of course 2nd hand) AX-5 for around 25 euro's. I only have this lenses: x-fujinon 55/1.6, x-fujinar 28/2.8 and x-kominar 135/2.8. Have you ever fixed a Fujica AX camera by yourself? Just curious, but what Fujinon lenses do you have?</p>
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<p>Mattijs - I haven't worked on an AX; there are just too many electronics. So, it is not as easy to work on as a pure mechanical camera (even <em>they</em> can be tricky). I need to keep my AX cameras working because I have: <em>19</em>, 24, 28, 35, 50 (f1.6 & <em>f1.2</em>) and 135 Fujinons. I am looking for a 100mm, but they are very rare. I could easily find alternative lenses - Nikon or Canon - for many of these, but the 19mm and 50mm f1.2 are exceedingly good lenses and make it worth keeping an AX5 (or AX3) working. While a little lubrication may appear to get your shutter working it is difficult to make adjustments without some special equipment. Any oil that is applied to a camera should be almost invisible: it is all too easy to put too much oil in the wrong places. I believe you may find a service manual online, but I am doubtful.</p>

<p>You may be lucky in finding another good working AX online, and which would not require a service, but ask lots of questions before you buy Don't buy one if it has not actually been used by the seller recently. I recently, bought a mint <em>guaranteed </em>one with lens for £40 (GB pounds) - but that was at a camera fair, not online. That is the <em>very most</em> I would want to pay for a good working AX5.</p>

 

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<p>Alan - I also bought this camera at a fair, but at that time I quickly checked the camera and it seemed OK. I should have looked at the camera more carefully. I live in The Netherlands, and Fujica AX-5 camera's are quite rare here. I emailed a guy who services cameras to ask what a CLA would cost for my Fujica AX-5. It costs <strong>125 euros</strong>!! That's not cheap, isn't it? How much did you pay for a CLA?</p>
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