K-x in cold weather

[calculuspanda]

<p>I've been going through a lot of material trying to decide on a first DSLR, and I'm leaning toward the K-x. Though what happens to it in cold weather? The stated operating temperature is goes to 0C and it gets way colder than that here. Overall, I don't think cold weather performance is a deal breaker for me. My desire to photograph things rapidly diminishes along with the feeling in my fingers.<br>

It's just one of those things that's handy to know when buying a camera in the winter. Anyway, I'd like to hear about some real experiences going bellow freezing.</p>

[mountainvisions]

<p>I would not worry too much about it. Your post made me laugh a bit though!</p>

<p>Do you live in a cold climate? I spend a bit of time in 0C or colder weather, about 3 months a year (mid Dec- mid March). Temps can get into the -20F range (ambient) which is around -30C overnight, although -10F is more common. Usually mid winter day time highs are in the teens in the mountains, often hovering around 0F ambient. Bearing in mind the temp drops about 4F every 1000 feet and most of my data (screen shots below) are from weather stations are between 500ft and 1800ft. In a 2 of the shots I'm at 4000-5000ft, you can do the math ;-).</p>

<p>Honestly, never even looked at the operating temperatures. I figure if I can survive my electronics can too. Although on the February 18th 2006 trip, my GPS with 2 Lithium AA cells rated to -40C failed to turn on, it was in fact the LCD that was inoperable. In hindsight it should have been in my shell water bottle pocket. Dumb mistakes like that will conspire to kill you in whiteout conditions like we were in, fortunately compasses don't need batteries. We ended up bailing bailing from the summit down a gully in the general direction of <em>shelter</em>, just not the shelter we intended to arrive at!</p>

<p>Do a quick check of the K10Ds operating temps, then do some searches for it's launches into space. I think it was done by some Oklahoma researchers. I can tell you the K10D definitely exceeded it's operating temps in multiple launch and recoveries.</p>

<p>Yeah, the K10D is sealed, but most of my other cameras, including the ist D aren't and never has one died on me.</p>

<p>Posting a few photos of days I remember being cold enough to remember (or perhaps forget) with the exif below them and a screen shot of the weather those days! You tell me what is gonna happen to your K-x?</p>

<p><a title="Insanity Is... by Mountain Visions, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4045/4279222923_2754a29e7b_z.jpg" alt="Insanity Is..." width="640" height="457" /></a><br /> Creation date: 1/9/2010 15:53<br />Camera: PENTAX *ist D<br />Focal length: 21 mm (equiv. 31 mm)<br />Aperture: F8<br />Exposure time: 1/320"<br />ISO speed rating: 200/24°<br />Program: Manual<br />Metering Mode: Center-weighted average<br />White Balance: Auto<br />Flash: Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode<br /> <img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_nUkUalEYL88/TOzJbdF4VaI/AAAAAAAAAkA/2dvKQE71V7Q/s912/6a4b1276cc0190dbe63cbbb31aba6036.png" alt="" /></p>

<p>This is with a lowly point and shoot...<br /> <a title="2006-02-18 16h04m42 by Mountain Visions, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4083/5203224143_3413d0ca61_o.jpg" alt="2006-02-18 16h04m42" width="600" height="450" /></a><br /> Creation date: 2/18/2006 16:04<br /> Camera: KODAK DX7440 ZOOM DIGITAL CAMERA<br />Focal length: 12.1 mm (equiv. 72 mm)<br />Aperture: F7.1<br />Exposure time: 1/200"<br />ISO speed rating: 100/21°<br />Program: Normal program<br />Metering Mode: Pattern<br />Flash: Flash did not fire, auto mode<br /> <img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_nUkUalEYL88/TOzLpq6vL7I/AAAAAAAAAkU/Emn6Fa1dKc0/s640/e6b9b7228725c5aa0d8590b631b578c0.png" alt="" width="640" height="457" /></p>

<p>Last one...gotta say, visibility of 4 miles, my ass! Whiteout!<br /> <a title="Algonquin group by Mountain Visions, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4108/5203857648_7512839a7f_z.jpg" alt="Algonquin group" width="640" height="480" /></a></p>

<p>Creation date: 2/25/2006 14:34<br />Camera: KODAK DX7440 ZOOM DIGITAL CAMERA<br />Focal length: 5.5 mm (equiv. 33 mm)<br />Aperture: F4<br />Exposure time: 1/1000" (+0.3 EV)<br />ISO speed rating: 200/24°<br />Program: Normal program<br />Metering Mode: Pattern<br />White Balance: Auto<br />Flash: Flash fired, compulsory flash mode<br /> <img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_nUkUalEYL88/TOzOQ4Tp4MI/AAAAAAAAAkY/q0gSELB-R3k/s640/7aef9d0b95e5c5cc527aa0ad622a29f8.png" alt="" /></p>

<p> </p>

[MattB.Net]

<p>With the ability to use Lithiums, the K-x might even be better than one of the more pro oriented models. I wish it had weather sealing but I haven't killed mine yet. I climbed and skied a 11,500' mountain with it last weekend with just Eneloops and it did great. Temps were in the teens but I've had it out in colder conditions before without problems too. The batteries will usually be the weak link in cold climates. I keep it in my jacket for harsh conditions so that helps keep it warm as well as handy.<br>

<a title="IMGP3306.jpg by MattB (somedudeus), on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4085/5196114471_7239beeb77_z.jpg" alt="IMGP3306.jpg" width="425" height="640" /></a></p>

[ad12345]

<p>Victor,<br />The only issue I've had with the K-x in cold weather (below -20 C or -4 F ) is that the Sanyo eneloop NiMH batteries I usually rely on don't work very well when they get cold. For cold days (and for lots of other reasons) I keep a couple of sets of Lithium batteries handy. They work well at -30C (-22 F). Anything below that and I have more problems with my fingers (even inside gloves) than my camera.<br />If you're not too fussy, just set the camera with a program you can live with before heading out (I usually use Av at f5.6 and an Iso between 200 and 400, or even use the green mode) and you can operate the shutter with ski gloves on. Hunting mitts with removable fingers are also handy things for photography in the cold, because you have less chance of dropping a glove in the snow when you need to do things that require dexterity.<br />I find that the rear LCD gets a bit sluggish after extended periods below -25C, but it doesn't seem to cause any permanent damage.<br />I've never had problems with condensation inside the Kx coming from the cold into a warm, humid space, but I usually leave it powered off for a few hours after coming in from the cold. I have also used an ist DS and K20D extensively in the cold and they are both still working fine after a number of winters. Freezing weather where I live (Alberta, Canada) usually starts in November and lasts until the end of April, so my cameras get a lot of use in cold weather.<br />As an aside, I was out shooting for a couple of hours with a new K-5 yesterday at -31C and it worked perfectly. This is about my personal cut-off for photography - anything colder than that and my pre-occupation turns to keeping exposed skin from freezing. Pentax cameras are tougher than I am.<br />Best of luck with your purchase,<br />Andrew</p>

[mountainvisions]

<p>I never had a problem with the DLi-50 in the K10 or K20D, but in theory the K-x/k-r (and K-5/K-7 with grip) should have an advantage over the K10D/K20D in the worst conditions. Energizer rates the AA Lithiums to -40 and they've definitely been the battery of choice at the poles for expeditions.</p>

<p>What I do with my pocket cameras if it's really cold is put a chemical hand warmer in the case. I don't like having to open the battery door and switch batteries, so the hand warmer usually does the job.You could definitely tape a chemical warmer to the battery grip of a K-x too.</p>

<p>I agree with wearing mitts, thick mitts (wool, fleece or primaloft) with a goretex or other WP-Breathable shell with a set of thin glove liners underneath is the ideal setup. You need something that you can take your hands out of easily, work with the camera settings and then put it back on to rewarm your fingers. Again, if you have a low tolerance for cold, or it's really cold, using chemical warmers inside the mitts can be even more helpful.</p>

<p>I have a unique tolerance for cold (doing some research it appears it is genetic based on multiple factors) but my fingers get cold like everyone else after extended exposure in wind or messing with metal parts like ball heads, and cold/useless fingers are never good when you have to rotate little dials and press little buttons.<br>

<a title="Great Range Traverse - Slant Rock - (c. 2005" href=" <img src="http://static.flickr.com/2311/2092365343_e00bff3474_d.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br>

No exif...taken before digital with the Program Plus...-22F that night! Windless though, felt much warmer!</p>

[ian s. forsyth]

<p>The only trouble I have had with cameras in cool weather is with film. One of my ME would tare film to no end, switching to digital I have had no problems with the ds k10 k20 k7 &k5. I have used all at least -42C with no issue, You might want to take care on bringing the camera back up to room temp, like sticking it into a zip lock baggy with silica to stop any moisture . I have found out that if the camera is cold leave it cold and you should not have any troubles put the camera under you coat could leaves it open to moisture problems. I have had 1 lens crack at -38C smc 50f2.0, one added thing the k7 is terrible cold weather camera to use, the metal shell really acts as a good heat sink making any use bellow -20c without gloves a pain</p>

[mountainvisions]

<p>The metal shell was wanted by many (including me) but I knew it would be a problem with conduction in cold weather.</p>

<p>Sure enough it is, but I'll deal with it! I agree about putting it under the jacket...especially with the way I sweat it would kill the camera pretty quickly. Though at times I have left my camera caseless under my goretex when it's snowing hard. Perhaps in the Rockies where it's drier it is different. Out east goretex and softshells don't breath that well even in winter when the humidity is often in the 80-100% range!</p>

<p>Ian, I hope those -40C/F temps are lows!!</p>

<p> </p>

[ukhov]

<p>Give me a break you like bunch of cliffhangers from S.Stallone movie -those k-x or k-r not even good half of what k-7 or k-5 can do!</p>

[ian s. forsyth]

<p>This morning I woke to -32C</p>

[ian s. forsyth]

<p>I just felt the need to through in a cold photo<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10507192-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="851" /></p>

[ukhov]

<p>Thanks for showing!</p>

[andrewg_ny]

<p>Most electronics companies are very conservative with what operational temperature range they claim to support, Pentax is no different. This is from a K10D a few years ago. Agree with others that I am the limiting factor, not the camera.</p>

<p>Many of us here don't consider 0º C (32º F) very cold at all. This particular weekend was quite cold, that's -17º F ( -27º C) according to the dash thermometer! No problems at all.</p>

<p><a title="A4 dashboard at minus 17F by 57th St. Incident, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3381/3202504999_acea3e0214.jpg" alt="A4 dashboard at minus 17F" width="500" height="281" /></a></p>

<p>A couple things to consider would be condensation when going from cold to warm (especially since K-x isn't sealed, but as a precaution some suggest sealing the camera in a ziploc bag until it reaches room temperature), and some battery choices may provide better life in the more extreme cold. K10D uses a single Lithium-ion, but a K-x photographer would normally choose between AA Lithium disposables or NiMH rechargeables. I'm not sure which is better in cold weather.</p>

<p>Another photo from that same chilly weekend:<br>

<a title="Adirondacks Ausable River by 57th St. Incident, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/164/381448352_be4251d329_z.jpg?zz=1" alt="Adirondacks Ausable River" width="428" height="640" /></a></p>

[mountainvisions]

<p>NiMH are terrible in cold, I think possibly worse than alkalines, certainly between the two it's a race for the bottom.<br /><br />Lithium of any form is better. But AA lithium are best, even better than those dual cell CRV2 or whatever they are actually called.</p>

[mountainvisions]

<p>BTW, I use 4AA Lithiums in my headlamp because they actually work when cold. Plus they weight about 1.5 ounces less than Alkalines which doesn't really mean much in a daypack or even overnight pack, but it does keep the headlamp a little lighter on the head!</p>

<p> </p>