Replacing batteries in Canon New F1 High Power NiCdBattery Pack FN

[tom_johnston4]

<p>I would like to replace the batteries in my High Power NiCd Battery pack FN but I'm not sure how to start. I have a parts drawing. It looks like I may have to peel back the leatherette on the back/left of the battery pack to access a screw that may release battery assembly and cover (somewhat like removing the battery pack from the Battery Pack FN (AA except there is no latch) but I'm not sure if that's the case. Or I might have to remove the base rubber. I have searched the Internet all day for info with no success but I know there are a couple photo.net members who have experience replacing the batteries in this pack.<br>

I did pick up a Battery Pack FN (AA) a while back so I can always use that but I still would like to fix the High Power NiCd battery pack. I took it to International Camera some years ago when the batteries would no longer take a charge but when I got it back it appeared that they somehow goofed up. It never took much of a charge and the red light on the charger never went out as it should when a certain voltage is reached. <br>

Being a tinkerer who fixes just about everything, I would like to do the job myself and I will probably use NiMH batteries as I am told that the charger will work with them.<br>

Anyway, if anyone has replaced the batteries in the High Power NiCd pack, I would greatly appreciate it if they could tell me the correct way to open the pack up.</p>

[kerkko_kehravuo]

<p>Tom,</p>

<p>I had my HP pack rebuilt by local (Helsinki) classic camera repair shop. Result is like new. Price I am not able to remember but it was something very sensible for the work.</p>

<p>Kerkko K.</p>

[tom_johnston4]

<p>Kerkko: Thanks! I probably won't be sending it out to Helsinki :-) but I have heard that Battery's Plus can do it in the States. They have locations all over the country. However, I would like to try it myself. I am one of those hopeless people who simply likes to fix things themself. Also, as I mentioned in my initial post, International Camera in Chicago goofed up the job when they did it. In fact, the pack won't take any charge at all now. I tried yesterday. After hours of charging, it is totally dead. Also, I noticed that when I press on parts of the pack when it is (supposedly) charging, the charging light goes on and off indicating a short in pack. But even when the light is on, it doesn't charge. It doesn't even warm up. So I would like to give it a try myself this time.</p>

[ben_hutcherson]

<p>I've done a couple of them, although it's been a while.</p>

<p>Basically, you'll need AA batteries with tabs. When I was doing these, I bought them off of Ebay. I generally bought 24 at a time, and paid anywhere from $20-25 depending on whether I was buying NiCds or NiMHs. Batteries Plus will sell you the batteries, however when I checked with them several years ago, it was in the neighborhood of $50 for 8 batteries.</p>

<p>You'll also need some heat shrink tubing to bind them together-I bought this off of Ebay also, and it wasn't very expensive. The type I bought was clear and relatively thin.</p>

<p>In any case, you're correct that you'll need to peel back the leatherette, as well as the cover on the bottom. Then, you can access the screws to get the end off. You'll need to remove the cover from the other end in order to unsolder the wires that hold the battery pack in.</p>

<p>Pay careful attention as you break down the old pack-you'll need to rebuilt the new one in the same way. I'd suggest taking pictures.</p>

<p>You'll want to watch polarity and you're assembling the packs. As I recall, the batteries I bought were NOT marked with regard to polarity. I had to use a voltmeter to determine this.</p>

<p>Overall, it's pretty straightforward. I found that there was usually a LOT of corrosion that needed to be cleaned up. I also always replaced the wiring from the battery pack to the circuit board-a piece of fishing line can be helpful to thread it through the holes.</p>

<p>Once everything was finished, I used contact cement to hold the leatherette and rubber back together.</p>

<p>Good luck!</p>

[tom_johnston4]

<p>Ben... Thank you very much! You have been very helpful and gave me exactly the information I was looking for. I appreciate it!<br>

Tom</p>

[Tony-S]

<p>I just rebuilt my Canon Motor Drive MA NiCd pack. It takes 12 N-sized cells that I bought from BatteriesInAFlash.com:<br>

http://www.batteriesinaflash.com/assembly-cells/nimh/n-series/n-size-rechargeable-battery-400mah-nimh-1-2v-flat-top-cell<br>

I had my local Batteries Plus spot-weld them together and after that I just had to reassemble the pack. The screws were under one of the leatherettes.</p>

[tom_johnston4]

<p>Thanks, Tony. I never heard of spot welding batteries together and it seems like the heat could damge the batteries but I guess they had a way to do it safely. Thanks for the link for batteries! </p>

[Tony-S]

<p>Generally, you cannot solder batteries - they need to be spot-welded. I tried soldering and it didn't take, thus the trip to Batteries Plus for the spot welding. You should open your pack to see what cells are in it.</p>

[ben_hutcherson]

<p>The High Power pack FN has AA sized cells, while the standard pack has N sized cells. I have a standard pack around here somewhere, but never got around to rebuilding it since the high power packs have so many advantages(higher speed, longer life, ability to use the C-FN cord, easier to find replacement batteries). The high power pack is basically just a rechargeable version of the standard AA pack.</p>

<p>Batteries with solder tabs on them can safely(and easily) be soldered.</p>

[tom_johnston4]

<p>Ben --- You answered a question that I was wondering about. That is, what batteries the standard NiCd pack had. I knew the HP pack used AA sized cells and its dimensions are the same as the AA pack. But the standard NiCd pack has slightly smaller dimensions so I assumed that it used smaller batteries. Besides, if they both used the same sized batteries, there would be no real reason to even make the standard pack. Thanks! BTW, Ben, could you take a look at the info about spot-welding the batteries together in this thread and comment on that?<br>

Tony--- Thanks for the info. But isn't there a way to hook up the batteries without spot-welding them? I thought there were clips that you use to connect them but I wasn't sure if the clips are soldered together or not. The reason that I think there is another way of doing it besides spot-welding is that I know that people have re-celled their packs themself even though they wouldn't have the equipment to weld them. </p>

[ben_hutcherson]

<p>Spot welding is how the packs were originally assembled, and it's probably still the best way if you can do it. The heat from soldering directly to the batteries can damage them, however the heat from spot welding is so concentrated that it doesn't damage the batteries.</p>

<p>The batteries you buy with solder tabs have those tabs spot-welded on. It is safe to solder to the solder tabs, although you need to be careful not to heat them up too much. I always used either a pair of hemostats both to hold the tabs together during soldering, and to serve as a heat sink.</p>

[tom_johnston4]

<p>That makes sense. I have everything I need to do the job except the batteries. The only other thing I was wondering about is the glue used to hold the leatherette on. When something is contact cemented, it isn't meant to be removed in the future. I wonder if rubber glue is the ticket. I was also wondering if warming up the leatherette with a hair dryer set on low would aid in peeling it back. </p>

[mark_e2]

<p>The battery pack is really easy to do. You'll need to peel back the leatherette to get to the screws that hold it all together. Open it up, remove the shrink-wrapped battery pack and send it to Battery Tech (800) 442-4275 on Long Island. They'll create a duplicate of yours (including the thermal switch) and return both. All you'll have to do is solder the two leads back in.</p>

<p>I've done this several times with camera packs as well as ham radio gear. Works like a charm and is not as expensive as one would think. The benefit is that you get higher quality cells than you might be able to source yourself. My HP NiCd set for F1n has been running since 2002 without a hitch.</p>

[tom_johnston4]

<p>Mark:<br>

<br />Thanks much! That might be the way to go. I'm still a little hesitant to remove the leatherette but I did find some info on how to do it. The place that goofed up the job last time put the leatherette back on so nicely that it's impossible to see that it was ever pealed back. Then again, maybe they never took it apart at all. It never worked right when I got it back.</p>

[mark_e2]

<p>You're welcome. The leatherette is easily reattached using Durabond (it's secure and can be released in the future) - many people use double sided adhesive tape with equal success.</p>

[tom_johnston4]

<p>Mark: Thanks! I've received a lot of great tips here. Durabond is one of the adhesives that were recommended on other sites that cover this subject. I just hope I can get the leatherette off without damaging it. I'm definitely don't obsess about how my equipment looks but I still don't want to screw up the leatherette, if possible. It's in a recess which looks like it may make it a little difficult to lift an edge without damaging it. Being someone who fixes everything and who has a very well-equipped shop, I have no problem at all changing the batteries myself. The only reason I might have someone else do the job is that they may do a better job removing and replacing the leatherette. The good thing is that I picked up a Battery Pack FN (AA) a while back so I will still have that no matter what.</p>

[mark_e2]

<p>Easy way to get the leatherette ready to remove is to heat it a little. A hair dryer or just a warm lamp will do this nicely. This softens the bonding materials. The leatherette itself is fairly tough; just use a fingernail or a toothpick to get an edge started and then peel slowly. The recess makes it very easy to reposition the material when reassembling.</p>

[tom_johnston4]

<p>Thanks Mark! I was thinking the same thing about warming the leatherette and then I found a couple websites that deal with the subject and, like you, they recommended that you warm it up too. You also make a good point about the recess making it easier to line up. Thanks again. Tom</p>