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Off Camera flash desired help needed


andreahollander

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<p>Greetings all. I am photographing a conference that I photograph every year. Pretty standard meet and greet,<br>

podium shots, some close ups of people chatting etc. The lighting is always challenging. There are several location changes, a variety of ambient lights etc. The approach I like to take is having a flash mounted<br>

on a bracket to avoid red eye and cut down a little on annoying shadows.<br>

My equipment is hampering this a bit.<br>

I own<br>

Camera Nikon D50<br>

Flash Nikon SB-600<br>

Vivitar 283<br>

Vivitar 285<br>

It never dawned on me that standard features like a pc socket would be nonexistent on the Nikon camera<br>

or flash and the touted CLS system does work with this particular combo for off camera flash.<br>

My solution last year was use the built in flash with diffusion material for close up.<br>

Use available light when possible.<br>

And finally use a wein peanut in my Vivitar mounted on a braket which the on camera flash fires.<br>

With all the knowledge and equipment I already have I really would like to get better results.<br>

The Client has been happy I am not so much.<br>

I am about three seconds away from digging up some film and using my old camera.<br>

I am hoping someone knows how to have one of these flashes fire with out the use of the on camera flash.<br>

I apologize if this was already answered elsewhere. I hope you always have all the light you need.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>Your on-board flash with SG-3IR as a commander will command your remote SB600, when in CLS mode. You have no means to trigger your Vivitars, as they would not understand the CLS protocol.</p>

<p>You could possibly trigger all flashes, including Vivitars, if you get all remote flashes equipped with some optical slave trigers, and all flashes made working in Manual mode. In this case you cannot use SG-3IR.</p>

<p>Your best bet is to just use SB600 in camera hot shoe. </p>

<p>Your next best bet would be to use the popup flash as CLS commander and SB600 as CLS remote flash, and not use the Vivitar flashes, since they are not compatible. Since the SB600 as a remote may not have sufficient power in a large room, I would not use the SG-3IR filter, but dial down the pop up flash output a bit. This way both flashes will give you more power, and perhaps assure front view direct light and better chance for solid exposure.</p>

 

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<p>You have a few options. <br>

something like this would allow you to keep the 600 on board and bouncing while adding a pc socket.<br>

<a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/37082-REG/Nikon_4560_AS_10_TTL_Multi_Flash.html#reviews">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/37082-REG/Nikon_4560_AS_10_TTL_Multi_Flash.html#reviews</a><br>

not sure if that will work with the 600 though.<br>

Or<br>

If you want to put the sb600 on a bracket, this cable will retain iTTL info.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/300478-REG/Nikon_4766_SC_29_TTL_Off_Camera_Shoe.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/300478-REG/Nikon_4766_SC_29_TTL_Off_Camera_Shoe.html</a></p>

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  • 3 weeks later...

<p>Thanks Everyone it will take a little while to follow up on all the suggestions.<br>

I just stuck the sb-600 on the dang camera. Got some nice shots but still not so satisfied.<br>

I'll work on some of these suggestions and can not express how thankful i am that you took the time to reply.<br>

I have been noticing alot of amazing movie lighting recently and I am so jealous.<br>

I kind of wish I had become a film/video person.<br>

Happy image making!</p>

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