Let get serious about macro!

[jeffrey_winn]

<p>Well, serious within reason.</p>

<p>To begin I have a Canon T-70 with a Canon FD Autobellows. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I need the T-3 connector to attach to the double cable release to make everything work? If this is the case, I can begin to take a few photos. I have everything else except this t-3 connector, and I'll get one if this is the correct attachment. My plan is to start slowly, and learn some of the different aspects of using the autobellows. I bought this device a year ago, and have been just too busy until now. ( Yea, I know it is a weak excuse. But<strong>, </strong>I really want to give this a try. )</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>Jeff</p>

[dave_s]

<p>Jeff, hi. Good to hear from a fellow T70 fan. </p>

<p>(i) You are correct that the Cable Release Adapter T3 should work fine with the double cable release. (Disclaimer, I have never used this specific combination with the T70, but I can't see problems unless the 'throw' of the cable needs adjusting a bit.)</p>

<p>(ii) Possibly useful hint: if you have the regular Remote Switch 60T3, you don't absolutely need a double release, provided you're working from a tripod. Close the aperture with a regular single cable release in one hand, and immediately, while it's closed, trip the shutter with the 60T3 in your other hand.</p>

<p>Incidentally, this is how most people with Mamiya RZ67 cameras prefire their mirrors. I suspect very few people bother with the Mamiya double release, which is for the most part a pointless accessory.</p>

[User_502260]

<p>I prefer to use a camera with interchangeable focusing screens for macro work and usually use an F-1. The standard microprism and split image focusing aids can black out and are distracting for macro shooting. A bellows will give you a lot of extension and this will mean that with some shorter lenses it will be impractical to use them front forward. Reversing the front standard of the bellows is one way to do this. Both of my Canon bellows units are Bellows FL units. To keep semi-automatic diaphragm control I use a Canon Macro Auto Ring and a double cable with some lenses. I do not have the 20 or 35 Canon micro lenses so if I need higher magnification I will use my Minolta 12.5 and 25 micro lenses either with an adapter on the Canon bellows or on the Minolta Auto Bellows III with a Minolta X-700 that has a grid screen installed. Another advantage of using a system camera like the F-1 is that you have the ability to use the Waist Level Finder and Speed Finder. Macro can be a lot of fun but also requires patience and practice. I always advise people who are getting interested in it to buy an old copy of The Manual Of Close-Up Photography by Lester Lefkowitz. It's available from many online used booksellers, costs very little and is the best reference for the principles of close-up photography I know of. </p>

[jeffrey_winn]

<p>Dave,</p>

<p>I have the 60T3 remote release. I'm probably wrong, but I thought that by using the T-3 adapter I will have full automatic exposure control via the T-70's program modes. </p>

<p>By using the 60T3, how will exposure control be accomplished? I'm assuming that I would focus on the subject, depress either the shutter halfway or use the Exposure Preview buttom on the front of the camera. Then I guess I should set the correct aperture setting from the viewfinder on the lens. When I take the photo, I should depress the double cable release to set the aperture, and then fire the shot using the 60T3, it will release the shutter at the correct speed. I'm assuming this will produce the correct exposure.</p>

<p>I hope I'm on the right track here. I'll give this a try and see what happens.</p>

<p>Jeff,</p>

<p>I'm going to take a few baby steps with these photos. I bought the Autobellows, which came with a 35mm slide duplicator in wonderful condition, and a Canon FD 50mm f 1.4. I got all of this for a song. And if you heard me sing you would really appreciate how good of a deal I got. I like the idea of a pro level camera where I can really get great results. But, for now I think I need to give this a try and then move on from there.</p>

<p>Thanks again,</p>

<p>Jeff</p>

[paul_de_ley]

<p>I spent quite a bit of my teenage years outdoors behind an FL bellows with an AT-1 on side and either a 50 f1.8 or a 100 f2.8 on the other. The 100 was more practical most of the time because of its longer focus distance - unless of course I really wanted magnifications way higher than 1x. More recently I picked up a Nikon PB4 bellows and tried out a Tamron adaptall-2 35-80 f2.8-3.5 zoom on it. That lens has a reputation of great center sharpness and it didn't disappoint me in that respect, while the ability to zoom in and out proved a much faster alternative to shortening or lengthening the bellows.</p>