Resource: Rolleiflex 600x series battery cell upgrade

[dirk-san1]

<p>This company in Germany offers a cell upgrade against the well-known problem of Rolleiflex 600x batteries loosing their ability to remain charged. Price is €38 (~$49) incl. doing the work and they seem a qualified battery seller. The eBay DIY kit is $39, so it is quite attractive.<br>

http://www.akkuline.de/2757_AKKULINE_camcorder-akku-passend-fuer-rolleiflex-rolleiflex-slx-zellentausch.aspx<br>

Site is in German. No relation, just a discovery. Have not used them, but comments on the site and German forums are positive.</p><div></div>

[stuart_richardson]

<p>Thanks Dirk! Graham Mitchell also has a step by step guide to doing this work for yourself. <br>

http://www.graham-mitchell.com/blog/?p=72<br>

I think if they do the work, it is probably a fair deal (not everyone is handy with a soldering iron...or even owns one). The only reason I have not done this yet is that my batteries still seem to work! They are not the greatest, but I usually only shoot a few rolls on a given shoot, so they usually hold out. </p>

[stuart_richardson]

<p>Oh, and Graham's instructions are for putting in NiMh batteries with much greater capacity. That said, you will need a new universal charger...</p>

[dirk-san1]

<p>Yes, I am aware of Graham's method. However, as you know the difficulty is that "you must also spot weld the tabs of the replacement cells" which is not soldering, although some people report they soldered it successfully. The material cost for the cells is around $20, so $40 seems reasonable, given that not long ago people were charged $95 for this.</p>

<p>I suppose one could ask the German Akku-Line folks to use higher capacity cells instead. They seem flexible enough.</p>

<p>As for the charger, the eBay listing of the pre-welded pack states that it is OK to keep using the charger N: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Replacement-Pack-Rollei-6000-sys-Battery-NiMH-cells-/360211839795?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_Batteries_SM&hash=item53de4c7b33#ht_2570wt_727</p>

[floyd_waller]

<p>Original chargers, G or N, work just fine with the the NiMH cells. I have the Chinese pre-welded pack from ebay as well as several packs redone with the original Sanyo nicads by a local San Antonio, Tx. battery-electronics service. They redo the nicads for around $40.00. Frankly, any electronics-battery specialty store in any major city should have the ability to re-cell the packs and properly weld them(Soldering is NOT recommended). </p>

[mark_olwick]

<p>From what I've heard, the original charger works...but you have to take out the battery after one hour and re-insert it each hour to get a full 3 hour charge on the new batteries - is that true Floyd? (due to a timer in the charger)</p>

[floyd_waller]

<p>Hi Mark,<br>

I can't say that is true or untrue. I've always (for me) had an adequate charge after one hour with either charger. I know you can reinforce the charge by the method you state, especially on the initial charge.</p>

[dirk-san1]

<p>Do you see a big difference between the NiCd and NiMH cells in use?</p>

[floyd_waller]

<p>Hi Dirk,<br>

I wish I could truthfully answer that question. In theory, the NiMH cells have greater capacity on a charge, so if you are a heavy user you are less likely to run out of power on a job in continuous use after a charge. For the casual occasional user, my experience is that the Nicads hold their charge longer so if you are not an everyday user you are more likely to have power. I have experience mostly on a casual basis with previously an SLX and now two 6003's, as well as in my 35's, the Rollei 3001 and 3003. Supposedly, according to my local battery expert, the old bit about nicads needing to be run down before being recharged is now a myth and does not apply to either of the current types of cells, i.e., meaning that they can be topped off on a partial discharge.</p>

<p> </p>

[dirk-san1]

<p>Thank you - I think with any of the options out there one cannot go wrong nowadays. </p>

[User_3607948]

<p>I purchased an eight-cell, plastic wrapped brick which has the batteries properly connected together, ready to solder using by the two lugs extending from the plastic cover. I paid $35 US for the bricks so the re-cell fee by the service cited by the OP seems quite(very) reasonable.<br>

One caution: the Rollei chargers employ two thermal sensors in the battery itself to shut off the chargers should temperatures exceed safe levels. Make sure the rebuilt batteries include this feature for use in Rollei chargers.</p>

<p>Joe</p>

[geoffrey goldberg]

<p>In the 6008AF with dp20, the older type bateries just ran out of juice after about 100 shots or so. WIth the newer type batteries, bought from Krikor, the batteries never ran out whatsoever. </p>

[jorge_jimenez1]

<p>I have just replaced my old Sanyo cells with the chinese cell pack from evil bay. I had no difficulty. First, you cut the flat strip at the end of the Sanyo with scissors. Then, using a locking tweezers clamp together the end of the NiMH ribbon and the cut remains off the SLX battery. Then, using an electric solder, you get the solder HOT, then you transfer the heat to the ribbon where the two sections (from the battery and from the end piece) are clamped. Bring the solder flux in contact through the small hole at the end of the new battery ribbon and VOILA. Then do the other one the same way. Remember to re-install the diode heat sensors in the cells in their original position re-using the paste around them. REINSTALL THE PLASTIC COVERS on the battery pack (or you can short circuit the whole thing) Finally, close the case up. Insure the fuse is 0.8 amps for then SLX or 1.0 amp for the 6006 type II OR 1.25 amps for the 6003, 6008, ald later bodies. Charge it with your Rollei N charger until the red light goes off 3 times. You are DONE</p>

[oi oi oi]

<p>Just rebuilt two batteries using the pack of ebay - easy to do. Thanks for the advice - I now have no worries with batteries. Yippee!</p>