Blurry White/Shadow Example with Hotshoe Flash

[akgraham]

<p>Hi<br>

I'd really like to know how to avoid the blurry light/shadow effect in this photo:</p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/11614050-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="850" /><br>

ISO 100, f/13, 1/30, hotshoe flash.<br>

Thanks!</p>

<p>Andrew</p>

[Matt Laur]

<p>The problem is that you've got enough ambient light, and a slow enough shutter speed, to still be recording an image even when the flash isn't actually illuminating the subject.<br /><br />Depending on your camera, you should be able to get a flash sync speed of something closer to 1/200 or 1/250. Don't let the camera tell you what to do, tell the camera how you want the exposure to go. Manual shutter speed, aperture, ISO, and flash power ... that's how you get just what you're looking for. If, at that higher shutter speed, you're still getting too much ambient light softening the movement, stop the lens down even more, and crank up the flash power. With some flash units, even the flash itself is casting light for long enough to allow for some motion blur. You'll have to test this with your equipment. You'll get more specific pointers if you mention what gear you're using.</p>

[Matt Laur]

<p>I mean to add: notice that the fence is blurred, too. That's camera movement, making itself obvious because of that slow shutter speed. So on top of the subject moving, the camera is moving. It all adds up!</p>

[akgraham]

<p>Thanks Matt!<br>

I was using an Olympus E-1 and FL50 flash. There was a good deal of ambient light and I wanted to capture that but still have the guy sharp. Other shots where I cranked up the flash made the background very dark and unattractive. How can I get both?</p>

[mark_sirota1]

<p>Tripod. You'll still see movement in the subject, but at least the background will be sharp.</p>

[Matt Laur]

<blockquote>

<p>How can I get both?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>The only way that cranking up the flash could make the backgroud dark is if you're using automated modes on either the flash or the camera (or both). Go manual. It's the only way to meter for the background, preserve that exposure, and still take control of the light on your subject. You don't have to wait for the skateboarder to test it - you can do it with anything, including yourself as a test subject, using the self timer. Manual exposure! Make sure you don't have an automatic ISO setting enabled, either. Some cameras like to "help" by compensating for what you manually do by automatically adjusting ISO. Make sure you're completely in control. <br /><br />Just remember that you can't exceed your camera's flash sync shutter speed.</p>

[akgraham]

<p>I think I'm starting to see it now - time for some back-to-basics practice on fully manual settings!</p>

<p>Many thanks to you both.</p>

<p>Andrew</p>

 

[fred_fedak]

<p>That "blurry light/shadow effect" is what sets this shot apart from countless other mundane "freeze the action shots" that anyone can achieve with a half decent camera, and a fast shutter speed. If I were you, I'd work on refining the effect more. "Frozen action" is just that, this is "movement in a still photo". Much more interesting. Perfect example of the difference between a snap shop and art.</p>

[jimmckinnon]

<p>I think Fred has a valid point. Using this idea, you might try switching to rear curtain sync to get the "shadow" behind him.</p>

[akgraham]

<p>Excellent - thank you! I quite like the effect and just want to know what to do to when I need to control or avoid it. I'll try rear curtain synch.<br>

Cheers.</p>

<p>Andrew</p>

[tjh_images]

I agree with Fred polish this technique, I think it would be a really greet shot.

[michael_krouskop]

<p>To get a sharp image of the skateboarder your shutter speed would need to be at 1/250 and I would go even higher. There is obvious camera shake in your image, but mostly the shutter speed is too slow. I don't know your gear and with mine I would shoot high speed sync at 1/1000, ISO 1600 and the fastest widest lens I have.</p>

[danielransom]

<p>I don't really see camera blur in this, though I have to admit, I can't see how you avoided it. The front edge of the rink is in decent focus. I have shot at 1/30 with IS on my 17-55mm 2.8 EFS IS and not had a problem. More to your real problem, you are pretty much reversed in your approach. You should have a much faster shutter speed, (as much as 1/1000) and then adjust you other settings accordingly. This, of course, in Manual. The other functions just dumb down settings to the lowest common denominator need to get an exposed, focused shot. One trick to use in this kind of shot is to use auto focus on a non-moving element that is in the same side to side plane as the subject will be. Then switch to Manual focus, and don't change position or adjust the lens. Make sure you have a reasonable DOF, and you can shoot faster with less concern for focus.</p>