Airplane Timelapse setup

[aaron_yeo]

<p>Hey everyone,</p>

<p>So tomorrow I'm taking off for a short trip to Vancouver from Edmonton, and am planning to do a timelapse video out my window. I've done all the math to figure out the intervals/framerate etc of the final product, (1 pic every 8 seconds, for up to two hours to get 30 seconds of 29.97fps 1080) but all I need to do now is figure out how to keep the camera steady.</p>

<p>I'll be using a D200 with grip (although shooting small fine JPGs shouldn't use more than one battery, I don't think) and a Tokina 11-16.</p>

<p>What do you think is the best method of doing this? I have taken a few 4-5 second exposures on moving trains by removing the hood and pressing the filter on my Tokina right up on the glass, which works with a bit of pressure for short amounts of time, but I doubt I'd be able to hold it up for a flight. Anyone ever done this before? Help and ideas would be appreciated.</p>

[Jerry_]

<p>Hopefully you will have a second battery ... the D200 is not so good in the battery department, compared to a D300 or D700.</p>

<p>If you had a 52mm filter lens, the AF 50mm f1.8D Nikkor or the AF-S 35mm f1.8G Nikkor, you could find a old rubber lens hood and go against the glass -- but a 11-16mm lens is not going to be easy to find a rubber lens hood to fit it....</p>

<p> </p>

[aaron_yeo]

<p>I'll have my 50 1.4 with me, I don't think I'm bringing my 35. Both of them aren't as wide as I'd like on DX though, especially for cloudscapes and the like. I do have one of those old rubber hoods from a 1.8 series E, which I never use but it seems it might be harder to hold up since there's some give thus requiring more pressure... which would just cause it to collapse.<br>

You mean a 3rd battery, right? It's gripped. And I certainly hope I don't use up 2 batteries.</p>

[r_johnston]

<p>There could be a lot of vibration, not good for the camera for long periods of time. Ive used a rubber lens hood, to help dampen vibration. But, never tried a time lapse, as a tripod of some kind would be needed to hold the camera, and there has never been anything to mount it on. But, that said, if you had some kind of tripod with a suction or Joby Gorillapod that could mount it to something it might be possible. But, make sure you get one heavy enough to hold the D200. Maybe a suction or magnetic mount with a flexible tripod that could mount on the window or frame and still be aimed outside.<br>

But, believe you would not get much more than clouds or sky except when landing or taking off, unless you aim it toward the ground. You didn't mention if flying commercial or General Aviation, and the latter makes it much easier as there would be few limitations, plus the windows are much larger.</p>

[aaron_yeo]

<p>It'll be commercial, aboard an Embraer 190, a smaller plane similar to a Boeing 737 or Airbus A320 I believe.<br>

I've done the flight hundreds of times (no joke) and there is a very nice view. Crossing the rockies provides lots of interesting photos as I've done before, and if there is too much cloud cover, it'll be okay as I'm only aiming for a 30 second video in the end, and take-off -> clouds -> landing is actually kind of cool in that short amount of time.</p>

<p>But interesting point - I never really thought about the potential damage of constant vibration... Hm. A gorillapod might do well enough on the armrest or something. Don't have time to find and buy one, unfortunately.<br>

I'll have a return flight, which means I'll have a second chance, but the view, azimuth of the sun and seat are much better going...</p>

[sjoerd_leeuwenberg]

<p>You could use a magic Arm with super clamp from manfrotto.<br>

Be careful with polarisors, I had some trouble on some airplane windows,<br>

The double windows give different polaraties and some give some very psychedelic color effects.<br>

I think it will be hard to hand hold anything for more than 15 minutes.</p>