Using a Grad ND Filter

[james_wilson12]

<p>I have read all these forums on using a Grad ND filter, so I'm aware of how to use it, however I'm not getting the results I hoped for.<br /> Here is some background on me:<br /> I have been doing photography for years and you'll see from my website www.jamescwilson.com that I've captured some nice landscapes shots in the past.<br /> My equipment is:<br /> - Canon 40D, Canon 17-40, Canon 24-70, Hoya Polarizer, Singh Ray Grad ND 0.9 filter, and Cokin Holder.<br /> I live near the beach and headed out to take some photos today during a very dark, gloomy day. I set my camera to manual, f/stop to 22, put on both my polarizer and ND filter and the slowest shutter speed I could get was about 2 seconds. if I underexposed everything was extremely dark and of course overexposed was blowing out the details.<br /> I am trying to get results like this photographer http://www.photo.net/photo/6499207<br /> According to this photo, he used a round ND filter which is the same compensation as mine and I couldn't get any results close to his.<br /> So I would like some recommendations as to other methods/filters I might try to get these soft, silky shots of both the water and sky.<br /> Thank you for any suggestions.</p>

<p>James<br /> www.jamescwilson.com</p>

[tonybynum]

more post processing, he's done a fair amount of dodging and burning. . . plus a vignet . . .

[david_henderson]

<p>The answer's not difficult, though you may nevertheless not like it! </p>

<p>Get up earler. A lot earlier. Or maybe not quite as good but still satisfactory, stay out these till very late -till its close to black actually. People like Michael Kenna, Josef Hoflehner etc don't photograph between dusk and dawn bacause they are insomniacs , they do it because they can get very long exposures uninterrupted. </p>

<p>The photograph I've attached is a ten second exposure taken two weeks ago on the Northumberland coast in Northern England, about 40 minutes before the forecast sunrise. There is no overall ND filter in play here, though I did like you use a hard edge grad -3 stop - to avoid blowing out the sky. To get this and others I set my alarm clock for 4.15 am . I could possibly have got it at about 10.30 the night before, but then the sun would have set behind me and the tide wouldn't have been right. I was on the beach by 4.30am and I was not the first.</p>

<p>To me trying to get this sort of photograph in full daylight using a strong screw-in ND filter doesn't create quite the same effect, though some people use such a filter , maybe in combination with a grad, for night shots too, for even longer exposures. </p><div></div>

[sketch_tbhotmail.com]

<p>There's also the fact that he is using an 8 stop neutral density filter while you are using a graduated neutral density filter. His doesn't just cover the sky, it darkens the entire scene allowing for lower shutter speeds earlier in the day. Now he may also be using a graduated filter but he doesn't list it. Tony's right as well, his shots look like they've been processed quite a bit but very subtly. Good luck!</p>

[rawrainforest]

<p>Hi James,<br>

I like the s<a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/57855-REG/Tiffen_44CGN9S_4_x_4_Graduated.html/">quare glass Tiffen split ND filters</a>. With square filters (using a Cokin-type holder or handheld), ability to place transition exactly where you need it including off-center. It may be that you don't need the polarizer, but I haven't seen your image to which you refer. Shoot under lower light as others suggest. Adding too many filters could affect optics/clarity. <br /><br />Best,<br>

Bruce Farnsworth</p>

[sumo_kun]

<p>Um, the original poster *is* already using a grad...<br>

Anyway for those types of shot you pretty much need to be there when it is very dark as others have said. You need exposures of minutes to get effects like that. Also note that the guy is using a normal ND, not a grad like you. It is still a 3 stop filter like yours but it darkens the whole scene. You could get an ND filter for your holder but the best thing to do is probably get a round unless you want to use grads as well.<br>

As for post processing, take a look here: www.f45.com<br>

The guy was a student of Micheal Kenna and their styles are similar. He has a section where he details what he does in the darkroom to get his final image. Its a great insight into a great photographer's work.</p>

[images_in_light_north_west]

Actually can can get similar results in about 30 sec right after sunset or before sunrise, I like to use the Singh Ray Variable ND, it goes up to 8 stops, use that and a tripod and your set.

Ross