Problem with dark outline on high contrast areas of image

[ray_l]

<p>I have been experiencing some issues with dark outlines on high contract areas of some images. Please see the attached image of the Maroon Bells shot in RAW with D300, 15-55 at 17mm, ISO 200, f11, .5, underexposed 1/3 stop.<br />Any help would be appreciated.<br />Ray</p><div></div>

[Matt Laur]

<p>If you do a search through these forums for "CA", "fringing" and related terms, you'll get lots to chew on. This is easily corrected in software, these days. Are you using Nikon's software as you work with those files? Are you shooting straight to JPG, or in RAW, and then converting? NX2 does a fine job cleaning up after these artifacts.</p>

[ray_l]

<p>Matt,<br>

Thanks for the quick response. I use CS4. I tried adjusting both fringe adjustments in ACR but they had no effect. The "fringing", or whatever it is, is actually black. Is there another way to adjust for "CA" or "fringing?"<br>

For the attached image I made no adjustments. I opened in Bridge, cropped it while at 100% and used the photoshop image processor to convert it to jpg.<br>

Any other thoughts?<br>

Ray</p>

[ray_l]

<p>Never mind, I made extreme adjustments with both sliders in ACR Red/Cyan -68; Blue/Yellow -42. I still have a lot to learn about these adjustments!<br>

Ray</p>

 

[john_h.1]

<p>In Photoshop:</p>

<p>1) Create new layer<br>

2) assign the new layer blend mode of lighten<br>

3) Pick small brush size a bit bigger than fringe area (may need to zoom in)<br>

4) Sample a color lighter than the fringe that's right next to the fringe such as the sky<br>

5) brush fringe area which becomes color that was sampled<br>

6) As moving from area to area make new samples so fringe replacement matches the nearby color</p>

<p>This also works with white halos. Just use darken blend mode instead.</p>

[Matt Laur]

<p>That's a lot of work, John! I like Nikon's approach. One control, under the "correction" menu. Presto, the CA is nicely mopped up, and the rest of the image is unmolested. Next image!<br /><br />I haven't checked out the new version of Nikon's free (did I mention "free?") ViewNX (now v2), and I understand it has more editing features, if not Capture NX2's significant powers. But it's worth a go, especially if you're pulling in NEFs.</p>

[ray_l]

<p>John and Matt,<br>

Both answers are very useful. John, I can already think of other ways I can use that technique and Matt, since it is "free" I will give ViewNX2 a go at least for these kinds of issues.<br>

Thanks again!<br>

Ray</p>

 

[Matt Laur]

<p>While you're trying things, Ray, try out the much cooler Capture NX2 - it's free for 60 days while you get to know it. Might surprise you - it's a different animal, but it can really grow on you for certain types of work.</p>

[john_h.1]

<p>Thanks, I'll take a look at that.</p>