Setting up the SB-600 for small animals?

[derek_thornton1]

<p>I have been shooting for 3 years now and I am way behind when it comes to using a flash. What I have relied on in the past is natural light. Most of the time it works well but animals that wont sit still dont end up in my library. If I want to shoot at f/16 I am looking at a 1/2 to 1 second exposure.</p>

<p>So, my question is what is the best way to set up my flash and camera to shoot reptiles, amphibians and insects. What I have is a D200/D300 with a SB-600. I normally use a 105mm f/2.8 VR lens. I would like to shoot 1/60 sec. at f/16. When I have used the flash in the past at f/16 my exposure indicator shows the photo way underexposed. So, I switch the camera from normal flash to slow flash to get the right exposure. Doing this will again slow the speed down to around 1/2 to 1 second exposure depending on ambiant light. Am I suppose to just set it to 1/60 sec. at f/16, ignore the exposure indicators low exposure and shoot?</p>

<p>If anyone here could share their camera and flash settings for small animals and macro I would really appreciate it. </p>

<p>Thank You,<br>

Derek</p>

[elliot1]

<p>Have you tried increasing your <em>ISO?</em><br>

<em><br /></em></p>

[derek_thornton1]

<p>Here is how my camera is set up.<br>

Camera settings:</p>

<p>ISO 100<br />Aperture Priority<br />Flash sync mode: Front sync at 0.0 (However, due to meter showing underexposure, I use slow sync)<br />Flash sync speed: 1/250 (auto fp)<br />Flash shutter speed: 1/60<br>

SB 600 Settings:</p>

<p>M Zoom 14mm<br />ttl, bl, fp<br /><br /></p>

[elliot1]

<p>Not sure what your working distance is but increasing your ISO should take care of your issue.</p>

<p>Direct flash may not work well - you may want to use some kind of diffuser or soft box.</p>

[jose_angel]

<p>I`d use (in fact this is what I like to use) a spot flash device attached to your flash head; the ones who concentrate all the flash output on a small point. In this way there is no loss of light, specially if you`re using a DX camera. It works like a charm for micro subjects. You`ll gain then a few stops.<br /> The best one I have is a single Tetra-Pac milk or juice container (aluminum film inside), cutted by one side to fit the flash and the other to position the light output. In this way the resulting illumination is not as harsh as it could seem. You can shape it to your taste, even to add filters, they are in all sizes and materials.<br /> I cannot show you my devices right now, maybe later... I have them at the office.</p>

[elliot1]

<p>I have used this with success:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-Universal-Diffuser-Olympus-External/dp/B0017U0WM8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1280232877&sr=8-1">http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-Universal-Diffuser-Olympus-External/dp/B0017U0WM8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1280232877&sr=8-1</a></p>

<p>and this...</p>

<p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Flash-Adapter-NIKON-SB600/dp/B0035JF63O/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1280232959&sr=1-1">http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Flash-Adapter-NIKON-SB600/dp/B0035JF63O/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1280232959&sr=1-1</a></p>

<p>although the ring flash's output is significantly lower in power and you may have to bump up the ISO too much.</p>

[alan_huett]

<blockquote>

<p>When I have used the flash in the past at f/16 my exposure indicator shows the photo way underexposed.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>You do realise that the viewfinder meter will show you the ambient exposure, even if the flash is on the hotshoe? When fired the flash will attempt to expose the subject correctly (assuming TTL mode) - so you can't rely upon the camera meter to know if the flash is powerful enough. If the flash needs more power it will flash the approx. number of EV it has underexposed by in the flash display LCD.<br>

So yes, try ignoring the meter and trusting the TTL system - you might be surprised. Alternatively if you want the background/ambient exposure, set the camera manually to expose this correctly and use the flash to light the subject (again in TTL mode) - you should then get a good ambient exposure with the subject frozen by the flash. This may work better if you underexpose the ambient by a couple of stops - as long as you don't go above 1/200 shutter speed you won't lose any flash power to the autoFP system. If you still need more power, then zoom the flash head to match your focal length, get the flash closer to the subject or raise ISO.<br>

The diffusers and ring flashes are all good ideas, but it is worth getting the flash off the hotshoe with a cord or other trigger device, especially when working close - the 105mm might cast a shadow on the subject at close ranges. One of the Nikon TTL cords might be a good choice, you can hold the flash to one side with/without a diffuser for more interesting lighting.<br>

So, in summary, trust the TTL system - set your camera for your best ambient exposure and blaze away.</p>

[h._cremers]

<p>I'd advise you to read up on the use of flash (other than straight on on the hot shoe). This will help you understand the topic and answer your own questions.<br>

Books from McNally etc. will help you, the internet is a very good source.</p>

[alan_olander1664878205]

<p>Take a look at this article:<br>

<a href="http://www.naturescapes.net/docs/index.php/category-photographic-technique/381-rob-servranckx">http://www.naturescapes.net/docs/index.php/category-photographic-technique/381-rob-servranckx</a></p>

[bgorum]

<p>Derek,<br>

I use a setup similar to yours, except that I use the 70-180 micro, and I shoot the same kinds of subjects. When using a single sb600 I use a Wimberly macro bracket to hold and position the flash. I attach the flash to the camera via an sc17 cord and I always have the 14mm diffuser out, just in case I don't have the flash aimed exactly as it should, (easy to do with moving subjects and constantly changing magnification,etc). I get very nicely exposed pictures with this setup at f16 and ISO 100. Here's a recent example:<img src="http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l313/bgorum/Gorum_100723_2273.jpg" alt="" /><br>

I'm not sure why you are getting underexposure. Are you using CLS? Not that that should make a difference. How are you positioning the flash? Maybe you could tell us a little more about your setup.</p>

[derek_thornton1]

<p>Alan Huett, thank you very much for explaining that to me. I had a feeling that was the way it worked. I am just so use to going by the exposure indicator and highlight blinkies to get best exposure. I have been playing around with the flash this morning and think I got it all figured out now.</p>

<p>I really appreciate everyones input, all very helpful. </p>

<p>Bill it sure would be nice to see your setup. Singing frogs/toads is exactly what I want to work on. For the last couple months I have been thinking about trading in my 70-200mm for the 70-180mm micro. It would be nice to hear what you think of yours. It would also be nice to hear how well it works on subjects a little further away. Like NHRA Racing? My 70-200 works awsome from the stands at NHRA events. Pretty much all I use it for.</p>

<p>Again, thank you everyone!<br>

Derek</p>

[Dieter Schaefer]

<p>Derek, glad to hear that you figured the flash out. About trading your 70-200 VR for the 70-180: about all these two lenses have in common is the focal range. First and foremost, you would be trading a f/4.5-5.6 lens for your f/2.8. Then, rather slow AF rather than AF-S. No VR. <br>

The strength of the 70-180 is close-up; it's a decent enough performer at infinity though. You won't be increasing your working distance with the 70-180 - at 180 and maximum magnification you are about as close as you are with your 105 now. The one benefit for close-up photography with the 70-180 is that aperture stays constant for all focus distances (or more precisely, magnifications); on your 105/2.8 at 1:1 the effective focal length is closer to f/5.6 (less because focal length changes as you get closer (IF design)).</p>

[joseph_smith3]

<p>Derek, I use a SB 800 flash and not the SB 600 flash. I have assumed that you have been using TTL BL or where flash is the main light. That is not what I usually do when I use my macro lenses with a flash. I usually set the flash to TTL, set flash synch to rear curtain on the camera, set Auto FP with a Custom setting, and set a low shutter synch speed for the flash (maybe 1/10 or lower) using the correct Custom setting. This way ambient light is my main light, and flash is fill light (this is what TTL means) and the flash goes off at the end of the exposure. Backgrounds and the subject are naturally exposed with ambient light so the backgrounds do not come out dark or black. I usually set f 11 or f 8 as I want to my backgrounds to be out of focus so they are not distracting. If the subject is in motion I up the ISO so the shutter speed increases to stop the motion. I always try and use a tripod and I focus manually. I set minus flash exp comp of about -1.0. I take the shot, look at it in the LCD, and vary this flash exposure comp setting if needed.<br>

Since I am using a tripod, I can use a slow shutter speed. That is why I changed the default setting of 1/60 to a lower setting. This is what you have to do if you want to use a small f stop like f 16 and an ISO of 200.<br>

Remember there comes a point when greater depth of field with smaller f stops like f 16, f 22 might have a negative tradeoff--diffraction. If you do not know what this is, simply stated, as the lens opening gets smaller, even with greater DOF, the image gets less sharp. So an Internet search and see if anyone has done a difraction test for your 105 VR lens. If not do one yourself. For every macro lens you use, you need to know when diffraction starts to happen.<br>

Joe Smith</p>

[ifti]

<p>I use aperture priority and auto ISO. I also play with spot meter so I get the right exposure where it counts.</p>

[bgorum]

<p>Derek,<br>

I see you posted this same question on field herp forum. There is a post there by one of my friends that actually has a picture of me with my setup- http://www.fieldherpforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1202. Maybe not exactly what you were looking for, but all I've got for now. As far as how I like the 70-180 micro- I love it, but I use it pretty much exclusively for close-ups. I really couldn't tell you how it works for anything further away than a few meters because I cant recall ever using it that way. Before owning the 70-180 I used an 80-200 f2.8 with the Nikon 5t and 6t and Pentax T132 diopters. The results were quite good, except at 200mm and close to minimum focus distance, which is a well known weak spot for the 80-200. You might want to try some good quality diopters on you 70-200 and see how you like that before you trade it for the 70-180.</p>