Pocket Wizard FlexTT5 soo unreliable

[rado_donev]

<p>Hi everyone,<br>

Could you please share what is you wireless lighting setup for weddings(receptions).<br>

I own Canon St-E2 wireless transmitter, which does an excellent job transmitting ETTL signals but the coverage is not as good as would want it to be.<br>

Last wedding I shot I borrowed one pocket wizard FlexTT5 and I found it very unreliable. I was going for 2 lights set up. One on-camera ETTL and one side light. I had my Canon 580EX2 on top of the FlexTT5 and I had a studio strobe on the side connected via pocket wizard Plus II trasceiver.<br>

I found it very unreliable. Main light was not firing all the time and the ETTL was just not functioning right.<br>

Does anyone has experienced any troubles of this kind?</p>

<p>I was about to purchase this new pocket wizards but now I am just not sure if I am not setting up something correctly or they are just unreliable.</p>

<p>Could you please share what is your lighting set up with me</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>Rado</p>

[picturesque]

<p>Rado--I hope you know that radio interference on the part of the 580EX II, when combined with the Flex and mini, causes the kind of problem you describe. This is why PW offers a free radio interference hood for a 580EX II.</p>

<p>I own Cybersyncs, which are plain vanilla triggers--no ETTL. But they suit me just fine because I like my off camera flashes to be in manual flash mode. I can still use my on camera flash in ETTL. Besides the less complex (and therefore more problem opportunities) set up, the Cybersyncs are rock solid when it comes to reliability, and cheaper too.</p>

[blockphoto]

<p>I've had great luck with radiopoppers...range and reliability like pocketwizards, plus full E-TTL and E-TTL M support (so you can manually adjust remote flash power levels or ratios from the master flash, and use high speed sync). A bit on the pricey side, though.</p>

[rado_donev]

<p>Thanks for the quick answer guys!<br>

I was not aware about this radio interference issue at all and I am glad I had tried them before spending money for them.<br>

Nadine I completely agree with you that I need my slave to be in manual. If I go with Cybersincs am I will be able to trigger 580EX2 as well or just just studio strobes? If yes how do you connect it to 580Ex2. Same with transmitter(I have Canon 5DM1 body). How do you connect it to the body? How big they are? I am thinking if I can attach them to the top of the flash head.<br>

Could you please share also how do you arrange lights(for receptions),angles, power levels ext.</p>

[savagesax]

A guy that was shooting a reception with us, we were training him, and he was using the Canon with a 550 flash and a PW. I can't remember the exact problem, but the off camera strobes we had set up were firing, but his images did not show the wall strobes firing. It turned out that if he put his camera on the manual and not ETTL or program the camera worked fine and the wall strobes fired on time using PW's.

 

I think perhaps your flash on your camera is firing just a shade faster than the off camera strobes. I would suggest for you to do some testing on the different camera settings, such as P, Manual, TTL, AV, whatever settings your camera was set at.

 

The problem is I haven't played around with the PW Flex model. My setup is placing the transmitter in my shirt pocket with a long coiled PC cord, connected to the body of the camera. My flash units are still hooked up to the hot shoe. You could also connect a PW to the 580. I don't use the 580, but I own one and there is a slot for a PW connection. Anyway, I think you were having some sort of sync issue between the canon flash, your camera and the PW.

 

If I didn't have a partner I would use the Cybersync's from Paul Buff. Less money and probably better quality.

[pulpmojo]

<p>I just got my TT1 and TT5 last week and I've had the same exact problem, the hood and attachment that come included to reduce interference from 580 and 430ex's seems to help though.</p>

[picturesque]

<p>Rado--below is how I set up my Cybersync transmitter. The top row is the transmitter, which is quite small, on a 580EX original, so I purchased a Flash Zebra 'bottom' for it which has a mini plug port built in. I made the holder from a square of fuzzy Velcro and two ponytail rubber bands stuck in it. See picture on right. The back of the transmitter has the coarse side Velcro. I also have a 5D original.</p>

<p>For the 580EX II, however, I use the camera PC port, since the built in PC port is problematic. It will not fire a transmitter. You can mod the unit through Michael Bass (michaelbass.blogspot.com), but I just haven't done it. Some models of Canon cameras also just don't work with the mod either.</p>

<p>The bottom picture shows how I attach the transmitter to the flash, and use a coiled, heavy duty PC cord to run it to the PC port on the camera. I have the second ponytail rubber bank to keep the cord from swinging around too much. PC ports are notorious for having dead spots. I have one on my PC port toward the front of the camera body.</p>

<p>You can trigger any off camera flash that has the capability of being triggered through a port. You may need a hotshoe adapter. Go to Flash Zebra (flashzebra.com) to find good ones. You also have to remember to disable the sleep mode.</p>

<p>I normally have an on camera 580EX working in ETTL. Then, the off camera flashes (Sunpak 120Js or another 580EX or a Metz 54MZ4-i) are set so that they are generally a stop under the camera EV at the center of the area I want to photograph. I normally have 2 opposite each other or one acting as accent/rim light--generally among the DJ's speaker stands. I bounce sometimes, and use them direct sometimes. It depends on the venue and effect I want. I don't meter--just use a very low tech cheat sheet for distances.</p><div></div>

[rt_jones]

<p>I almost bought the PW flex system until I read the 580exII needed a sock for them to work. Glad I went with the cybersyncs instead. No eTTL frills but they just work every time.</p>

<p>I use them just like Nadine describes (less the girly hair things).</p>

[rado_donev]

<p>Nadine thanks a lot for the complete answer!! Really appreciate it. I think I will go with Cybersyncs as well.<br>

There is one more thing I would like to ask the great community of photo.net while we have the discussion going on. I am looking for a bracket that can attach 3 canon flashes onto lets say umbrella. I found this Lastolite bracket but I think is a bit pricy for me. Here is the link http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/611177-REG/Lastolite_LL_LA2412.html<br>

Does anyone know a cheaper alternative to it.<br>

Any info is appreciated.</p>

[wedding-photography-denver]

<p>Rado, while Nadine offer sound advice, in this case you might want to look into RadioPoppers. Way superior IMO, to the Cybersync or PW offerings. </p>

<p>I use them from a main on cam with far less fuss than Nadines set up, Also they offer TTL if you really want it, and they will trigger more reliably over distances (IMHO). I tried them, and a few other offerings before I realized the the RP's are just a better product. </p>

<p>Best, D.</p>

<p>PS. no offense Nadine, I know you know your stuff very well.</p>

 

[picturesque]

<p>David--whatever works. I've heard of a few issues with the Radiopoppers--both with Canon flashes and also when mixed with the PX Poppers--misfires, etc. It just pays to do one's homework. May work great with what you have and with Nikon flashes. All I can report is that I have the same gear as Radov, and the Cybersyncs work great. I'm not interested in ETTL wireless, actually, or in firing at great distances. This is the thing--get what fits your needs and that you know works well with your gear, from doing your research.</p>

[fotografz]

<p>I agree, research is key.</p>

<p>One other thing I would add is to <strong>think ahead </strong>when doing the research ... it'll save you a lot of money in the long run.</p>

<p>While not necessarily a recommendation just because I use them, also take a look at the Elinchrom Skyport. It is extremely small, has a tremendous range, can manually control any strobe or speedlight in 4 groups with multiple channels.</p>

<p>But here is the <strong>"future"</strong> part ... if you even think you may want to advance to a more powerful off-camera wedding lighting kit in future, Elinchrom makes one of the smallest, lightest, and best on the market in the Quadra RX. Then the Skyports come into their own allowing full control of lights right from the camera. I can adjust a Quadra strobe head on a 10' stand from across the room in seconds. </p>

<p>Also, I no longer bungie radio controls to the flash as I found it restricted some movements ... with some research I found the Kirk Grip I now use ... very beefy and stable for steady hand-holding in lower light, but made of incredibly light weight aircraft aluminum ... and uses an Arca type Quick Release for both the camera, and on the base of the grip for tripod or monopod work.</p>

<p>For those interested, here's a picture of the rig with the Skyport on the Kirk Grip. Note that I also have a hand strap AND a shoulder strap on this rig ... which is made possible by using a Camadapter handstrap with their Arca type camera plate featuring two strap lugs, one on each end. It all works synergistically and very fast, without having to switch out anything during a wedding shoot. </p>

<p> </p><div></div>

[outdoor_guy]

<p>I agree with Nadie with the fact that you need to do a lot of research when you buy a wireless flash system. Personally I went with the new TT1 and TT5 combination and I love. The reason why I chose them ist because of the equipment requirement and TTL functionality. Because of the new system, I have been able to more creative and produce some amazing pictures. I never leave home without them. I love them.<br>

Now here's the reality of it all, they do misfire and you do need put on shield. I was an early adopter of the new technology and before they gave out the shield, I was going to return them. It was very frustrating and I just could not get the system to work. </p><div></div>

[Ian Taylor]

<p>I've been using the TT1 & TT5 with no problems at all. They worked right out of the box.</p>

[fotografz]

<p>Here is another use of the Kirk Grip ... or any grip for that matter ... you can double your output when roaming around by using two speed-lights. One aimed forward on TTL to act as fill and the other aimed anywhere you want ... like bounced off a ceiling, or a side wall for directional light. If the ceiling or wall is at a distance, you can set the reflector on telephoto for more reach while setting the forward facing speed-light on wider, or use a diffuser.</p>

<p>This can let you set a smaller aperture to gain DOF, or lower the ISO to avoid noise. </p>

<p>This dual light set-up is really helpful in super bright outdoor situations where you are struggling to overcome the sun. Just aim both at the subject with a slight outward angle to avoid overlap. Good for even lighting of a larger group when there isn't time to set off-camera lights. </p><div></div>

[mark_t5]

<p>i loathe my pw tt1/tt5.... the old plus2 were much better... forget pw's unless your too invested in them already.. go with radiopoppers instead</p>

[picturesque]

<p>It would help, people above, to say what gear you are using with what triggers. It apparently makes a difference, so if you haven't said, please say what camera(s)--brand and model, and what flash(es), brand and model.</p>

[vancouver_wedding_portrait]

<p><img src="http://vancouverwedding.smugmug.com/photos/945166233_YzYr2-XL.jpg" alt="" /><br>

I bought my TT1 and TT5 for the Canon 5D Mark II in last Christmas time, it has some issue. The shoe mount broke easily and it was not consistence firing due to the software with 5D Mark II and no shield at that time.<br>

Btw they are fixing my shoe mount in Canada here and thanks to Lens and Shutter on West Vancouver doing a great warranty work for me. Thanks guy! Recently I have updated the software from PW and is working better but not perfect since I do not have the shield. Anyhow, with all this issue I bough another TT5, so now I have one TT1 and two TT5. I have PW Plus and multimax for my work but they don't work well in the sunlight. The TT1 and TT5 are radio transmitter therefore works better. <br>

I have the chance to do a paid assignment and have few shoot did not fire but once they do they look great. Now I just need to talk to the rep to get my shield for free in Canada here if I'm lucky. The TT1 and TT5 also works with my older PW too, which is a plus for me, next I will set up a remote flash using the PW. It is not a perfect system but it is getting better. Hope this help!</p>

[markonestudios]

Marc W, interesting setup. Makes a lot of sense. I use PCB Cybersyncs. I have a 580EXII and a couple of older 430EZs. I have played around with the system on a few portrait shoots indoors and out, behind walls, etc. It has proved to be superbly reliable. I use the flash in manual mode. I haven't yet got to try the system out during a wedding shoot but will do so this August. Again Marc, thanks for your show and tell. Rich food for thought :)

[fotografz]

<p>Yeah Mark, I hear very good things about the PCB Cybersync's.</p>

<p>If I were primarily using off-camera speed-lights I'd definitely go Cybersync. IMO, the best bang for the buck. Comparatively speaking, speed-lights are so weak that TTL control of the off-camera lights tends to be full output anyway, and the closer subject becomes the TTL priority. Manual off-camera lighting with TTL fill works just as well ... and you make the subject lighting decisions by using the camera controls and TTL flash on-camera compensation.</p>

<p>The advantage of full TTL is adjustable control of speed-lights that are way up on a light stand. However, in actual practice at a wedding these lights are working at, or close to, full power most of the time anyway ... especially at any distance from the camera position. But it is a nice feature to use if you have the time to adjust remote output in hectic conditions.</p>

<p>Most top end speed-lights are something like 90 w/s at full power ... compared to a standard monohead @ 400, 500 or 600 w/s. Our studio generator boxes put out 2400 w/s each as just a point of comparison : -)</p>

<p>Even the little "baby" Quadra is 400 w/s. This allows shooting in dark receptions with subject action at ISO 200, f/9 @ 1/200th like the shot below ... a different look to the usual drag the shutter on-camera TTL stuff.</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

[athanasios_retzonis]

<p>Hi from Greece !<br>

I am a Canon ( 5D II) user and i want to ask about flex tt5.<br>

My set up is : 580EXII + TT5 on camera (E-TTL ratio A:B:C),430EXII+tt5 (zone B) , 550EX + tt5 (zone c).</p>

<p>Everything works fine but sometimes i want the slaves off ( not fire) and my master to fire on E-TTL. If i turn off my masters tt5 ( without disconecting it from the hotshoe ) 580 won't comunicate with my camera.<br>

Is there any solution for that ?</p>

<p>And my secont question : Is there any posible set up with PW, having my master on E-TTL and my slaves on Manual and adjusting the flash output from my camera ?</p>

<p>Sory for my bad English . <br>

Thanks</p>