Flash Off camera and on camera ...

[joliephoto]

<p>I like to use a flash off camera during the reception, and at the same time a flash "on" camera on a bracket, so I can use the "pocket W"... SO I choose what I want to use. But the bracket is kind of heavy I would like to know how you do... Do you have an other solution, to use both or switch fast??</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

[rosina_dibello]

<p>I would remove the bracket - use a bounce card on the flash - and the pocket wizard is triggering off camera flash for room light.</p>

[picturesque]

<p>Whether to use a flash bracket is up to you. If you bounce and use the on camera flash the way that the Demb Diffuser or Lightsphere products recommend (the short side of the flash head), you don't need a bracket to keep the flash over the lens for verticals, for instance.</p>

<p>I use a bracket when it makes sense to use one. Perhaps I am going between inside and outside, and outside I like to have the flash over the lens for verticals. I might keep the bracket on and still bounce inside. If I don't need the bracket for this purpose (the rest of the reception is indoors and I can bounce my flash), I might take the bracket off.</p>

<p>As for switching, do you mean the off camera/on camera flashes or do you mean the bracket? If the former, I just turn off one or the other. If the latter, I just take the bracket off or put it on.</p>

[joliephoto]

<p>But how do you trigger the PW and the flash on camera ...???</p>

[rt_jones]

<p><strong><em>But how do you trigger the PW and the flash on camera</em></strong></p>

<p>I don't use PW's but I assume this will work like cybersyncs:</p>

<p>1.) mount the flash in your camera shoe like normal,<br>

2.) mount your PW on the flash with velcro,<br>

3.) run a short sync cable from your PW to the sync port on your camera.</p>

<p>Your camera's shoe will handle the on board flash (even in eTTL) and at the same time, the PW will be fired by the synch port which in turn will fire the remote flash.</p>

<p>Is this what you're asking?</p>

[joliephoto]

<p>Thank you so so much ;-)</p>

 

[savagesax]

I prefer using a bracket most of the time, because of the way the light is carried. In the vertical positions photos taken within the confines of a wall, the people will cast hard shadows against the walls. Using a bracket with the flash above you, these shadows go away.

 

For the formal shots in the church or outdoors I use a bracket on a tripod. This really helps keep the weight off your arms. This also allows you to move around and get the people positioned much faster than dragging around the camera.

 

Brackets aren't for everyone nor are they always needed. At the receptions the main table photo and the cake is pretty much the only time I will use a bracket. I'm shooting with Quantum strobes. With the Quantum Trio strobe it connects to your flash shoe and its bigger than the Canon and Nikon flash units. So in the vertical position it works really well due to the height and even bare bulb. It's ideal too for using bouncing.

 

The Quantum T5RW requires you to use a bracket. To avoid the hassels of messing around with taking off the camera and the flash off of your bracket I use 2 cameras. One for the bracket and of course 1 without.

 

If you shoot PJ style only I would skip the bracket.

 

My bracket has quick releases so you can switch prettty fast if needed.

 

If you are using a Nikon or Canon strobe I would surely use a bracket due to the vertical limitations of unpleasement lighting.

[wedding-photography-denver]

<p>I use on cam plus off all the time.</p>

<p>The on cam is directly mounted to the body (using bounce cards etc. for shaping the light. I bounce it all over the place) with a radiopopper on top. Using an SB900 on cam allows me to control three groups of of cam lights as well as the on cam light. Using the radiopopper is fast and reliable plus allows more individual control. I think that's what you are asking about.</p>

[frank_skomial]

<p>David,<br>

This is great to see someone with reliable use of RadioPoppers on Nikon CLS system.</p>

<p>My prior experiences were disappointing, but apparently technology or usage improved. I had to resort to manual remote flash setting, to make it reliable.</p>

<p>I found that RadioPoppers do triger remote flashes well and reliably, but fail to keep up with the Nikon CLS reliable pre-flash auto lighting determination, in cases where remote flashes were positioned at longer distances than the CLS limitations.<br>

Any comment how you use your remote flashes and Radio Poppers will be appreciated.</p>

[wedding-photography-denver]

<p>Hi Frank.</p>

<p>I mostly use them to light indoor receptions and formals. I also use them outside for engagement sessions, and when adding some for the couple during late evening sunset type shoots.</p>

<p>My experience with the ttl system is not as consistent as when I set them manually. I generally find the same thing you have. That is, if you set for TTL the preflash (measurement tool of ttl sytem) will work, but the resulting metering is not as consistent, though its better than the original RP's did. </p>

<p>I use an SB900 for the contoller (used to use an SU800) and can very quickly select the group I want, then set a manual setting for the off cam flashes. I find this also means better battery life and usually will keep the flash firing/recycling (with a battery pack) all night. One thing I have come to learn is the speed of change even during fast action, is great when you use the SB900 as master.</p>

<p>I would guess that your experience of the longer distances being less reliable is more due to the CLS working out how to adequately light the whole scene in the wider shots, and not being able to calculate the distance to subject on the tighter lenses (check you lenses are able to pass distance information to the camera). That and the fact that you may be using on cam to provide some of your illumination, which I learned is not very useful as it rarely can reach those more distant subject with sufficient exposure/duration. When I shoot at distance using the RP's, I turn my on cam to OFF in the control panel. That is not TTL, just the --- setting.</p>

<p>Hope that helps.</p>

[mark liddell]

Not to derail the thread but are the issues people are having with the RPs and CLS normal TTL issues or are the RPs making it worse/introducing problems?

[buffdr_rasouliyan]

<p>Just FYI, I use PW and they works great. I too mount my flash on my camera for ETTL (If I need it) and hook the PW to my sync port. I have a 7D and it does control my 580s but I find the distance limiting so I still use my PW when I use my 7D. Not a funny story but...2 weeks ago when I shot a wedding, I was using both of my flashes and decided to turn the PW OFF so my off camera flash would not fire. About 30 min later I turned on the PW (on my camera) to start shooting again when the flash was not going off. I thought hmmm did my flash go to sleep ( I don't allow it through the menu)? So I walked across the dace floor only to find out some one was kind enough to steal it off my stand! They did leave my flash and the cord. Keep one eye on your gear. v/r Buffdr</p>

[joliephoto]

<p>Thanks.... I was using the bracket to have the flash on camera, the radio trigger on the camera. But the bracket is way too heavy for a wedding... or I need to go to the gym !<br>

Yesterday I did try what you suggested: Fash on camera and the PW (or other), on the head of the flash with cord to the camera... it was perfect !!!</p>

<p>Thanks a lot</p>

[fuccisphotos]

<p>I <3 the new Demb Bracket I got. It really is JUST as advertised. It allows for unbelievably quick switches from vertical to portrait and it is EXTREMELY light. I'm a tiny girl who finds my L lenses to be quite heavy on my wrists, but the Demb Bracket is so light it doesn't even feel like I added anything onto the system. For people who want all the advantages of a bracket without all the added weight, this product is worth the small investment.</p>

[fotografz]

<p>IMO, the issue of using a radio trigger in conjunction with an on-camera speed light has yet to be solved by some manufacturer.</p>

<p>The problem is where to mount the radio trigger without using a bracket that has additional mounting holes in the cross bar or base plate.</p>

<p>You can use a Pocket Wizard Caddy and bungie the PW trigger to the speed-light ... which works, but is awkward, unbalanced and restricts the flexibility of the speed-light. It's a goofy solution at best.</p>

<p>Cyber Syncs are smaller, and Velcro can be used to attach it to the speed-light ... but are easily knocked off during hectic shooting in some wedding situations. Been there, done that.</p>

<p>I now use an Elinchrome Skyport which is even smaller than a Cyber Sync, and I still struggle with this issue ... where to put the darned thing?</p>

<p>A base plate type bracket is not the answer for me as I use a Camadapter hand strap with an Arca type quick release that also allows use of a side hanging shoulder strap ... a highly versatile solution that allows going from tripod/monopod to hand-held without any fuss or adjustments. Adding an additional backet to that would defeat the purpose and make for an even goofier rig.</p>

<p>I'm almost to the point of epoxing a small Stroboframe speed-light clamp to the top of my speed-lights to hold the flatter, low profile Skyport.</p>

<p>Anyone run across a solution for this? ... I'd love to see it. </p>

<p> </p>

[steven_crist]

<p>As Bob stated, use of a bracket gives you control over the shadow location. Be sure to use a bracket that keeps the flash aligned with the lens when shooting portrait and landscape.</p><div></div>