Need help shooting golf clubs

[d._t.g.]

<p>I recently took on the the task of photographing all of the new golf club heads for our website. We are a golf club component wholesaler. <br /> <br /> My main question: What is the best way to photograph the clubs heads that are chrome and reflective? <br /> <br /> I have rather expensive studio lights, a light tent, and a Canon Rebel Xsi camera w/the 18-55mm auto focus lens. <br /> <br /> Are there any shooting angles or lighting techniques that will help give me the most accurate depiction of the club while cutting down on the shadows and dark spots that show up in the reflective surface?<br /> <br /> I am rather proficient with photoshop. Is there any techniques I can be utilizing to help my product photos turn out better? <br /> <br /> Any and all suggestions appreciated><br /> <br /> Thanks,<br /> DTG</p>

[Matt Laur]

<p>First stop: buy yourself a copy of "Light: Science and Magic" and read it cover-to-cover.<br /><br />Next stop: get away from the light tent, and realize that you'll need large reflectors and gobos and whatnot to properly control and shape those reflections. <br /><br />You are taking on one of the hardest things to master: product shots of curved, shiny objects. It takes time, understanding, and the right tools if you don't want a completely "blah" eBay-looking, featureless, un-sexy image on your hands.<br /><br />I'll skip you ahead in your reading, though, and get to one point immediately: manual exposure. Manual ISO (kept low), manual shutter speed, and manual aperture on your lens. Don't let your camera's meter attempt to guess what will make your images look best. You need to take control of the situation, since you know what should play as highlights, shadows, bright, neutral, etc. The camera does not know those things.<br /><br />Also: when you mention expensive studio lights, what are you referring to? Are these proper strobes, or are they "hot" lights, fluorescents, etc? You should be using a nice solid tripod regardless, but you <em>must</em> do so if you're not using flash as your light source.<br /><br />Your primary complaint (shadows and hot spots) will only be addressed by understanding the way light is reflected off of the surfaces involved in the scene you create. Read the book I mentioned above, and then look at photographs done by pros for golf manufacturers. You'll begin to be able to "deconstruct" how those shots were lit, and have some strategy on how to tackle your own situation.</p>

[d._t.g.]

<p>Matt,<br /> First off, thank you for your extremely informative reply. I will be purchasing that book today, as you have been the third person to suggest it.<br /> Second, these are the lights I'm using:<br /> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/537466-REG/Impact_VA903_2KI_Fluorescent_Cool_Light_Two.html<br /> Are these decent for what I'm shooting? If you cant tell I have no formal training as a photographer. I have done quite a bit of research and trial and error. I have a good base of knowledge, but am looking to take it to the next level....just short of going back to school.<br /> Thanks for your help!<br>

I've attached a pic of a club I've shot......any comments appreciated.</p>

[sarah_fox]

<p>Please see comments posted on your other thread:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.photo.net/digital-darkroom-forum/00WgtW">http://www.photo.net/digital-darkroom-forum/00WgtW</a></p>

[JAPster]

<p>Another idea is to place your club on a nuetral surface, like a grey table, and place that close to a window admitting sunlight. If the day is overcast, the cloud cover will diffuse the natural sunlight to produce a broad swath of natural diffused sunlight across the club head. If the day is sunny, you cover the window with a large sheet of white ripstop nylon, or use tracing paper as a diffuser layer. Again, the idea is to bathe the club head with a broad source of natural diffuse light instead of a strong point light. You can also try using a longer focal length lens with an extension tube, which allows you to keep the camera far enough away from the object so the reflection is minimal. (These hints are garnered from <em>Langford's Starting Photography</em>, Ch. 4, Sec 21 - Reflective subjects). I just read this section today, so it was fresh on my mind....</p>

<p>In addition, I would suggest...<br>

Use your tripod to precisely position & hold your camera & lens in precisely the right spot. Shoot in aperture priority mode and pick a medium aperture like f8 or f11 so you get enough DOF to get the whole club head in sharp focus. Pick the precise focus point carefully, since about 1/3 of the available DOF will be in front of the focus point, and bout 2/3 the DOF will be behind the focus point. The camera will select the correct shutter speed, which is OK, since this is an inannimate object, ie stationary. Once you have the focus point picked, focused, and locked in, then set the self timer delay so that you start the shot and remove your hands, a few seconds later the camera takes the picture. This will result in the sharpest possible picture. </p>

<p>Also, once you see what settings you are getting in Aperture Priority mode, it will be easy to do some bracketing, taking a shot or two with faster shutter speeds, then with slower shutter speeds. I suggest using the same f-stop throughout so you keep the DOF constant throughout all the pictures.</p>

<p>In this way, take 4 or 5 test shots, then stop and import them to your computer and give em a quick look see, to see if they look OK or if anything looks like it needs adjusting.</p>

[brooks short]

<p>Light tents are for lighting stuff you don't care about.</p>

<p>You need to create soft, graduated specular highlights. The way to do that is to use an oversized diffusion panel and light just the center of it so the edges of your light fade away. If you light the entire diffusion panel or use a softbox you will get a hard line at the edge of your highlight. </p>

<p>I addition you'll need white and possible black and grey reflectors positioned to create specular highlights and shadow reflections.</p>

<p>There's a lighting theme here that talks about and demonstrates creating graduated specular highlights. <a href="http://www.photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00Aif6">http://www.photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00Aif6</a></p>

[e_thp]

<p>Shoot them til they stop moving. I find 12 gauge works best on golf.</p>

<p>Second, it probably says a lot better in LS&M, but shiny things reflect everything.<br>

Tiny light sources will be obvious and you might be too if you get the right edge. You don't want a mini you all twisted about on the metal face, but i think it talks about that in the book too.</p>

<p>Giant light sources everywhere except where you don't want them :-)</p>

<p>Clear as mud? Great!</p>