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High Speed Sync when off shoe ??


laurence_nyein

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<p>Hi,, is there any way possible to take high speed sync when the speed light is not on shoe ( on the camera).<br>

I can do up to 320 shutter speed with nikon CLS but i want more. What if i use Sync cord, or Radio Trigger, is it possible to get more then 320 shutter speed off shoe ?<br>

I got D700 with SB600. I know i can't use Radio Trigger with SB600, so let say i got SB900 with Radio trigger? is that possible to get more sync speed? And i also wanna use more then 1 speedlight at a time, how is it possible to do that?<br>

thanksssssssssssss.</p>

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<p>You can manually select high speed sync in the control panel of the flash.</p>

<p>There's no reason you can't use a radio trigger with an SB600. If you can connect a trigger to the flash foot, you can trigger the flash, or any number of flashes. I'm not sure if you can trigger a flash optically when it's in the high speed mode.</p>

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<p>Yes. The remote auto exposure FP is part of the CLS system now.<br>

No, if you try to use radio trigger or a sync cord other than SC29/28.</p>

<p>Even though the D700 built-in flash does not have power or capability to be a FTP flash, it is designed to command remote CLS FP flashes, or remote CLS fllashes.</p>

<p>The CLS is cable less (except SC29), IR/Visible light comanding protocol system, where radio triggering cannot be used in FP CLS mode. </p>

<p>(radio triggering could possibly be used with plain CLS mode (not CLS FP) after you master both systems separately and understand completely how they work)</p>

<p>Try to command your remote SB600 set in FP, from D700 commander, D700 built-in flash set as commander. Set shutter in menu for the FP value next to the speed, but use shutter speed much faster, e.g. at 1/400, 1/500, 1/1000 etc. There are some rules how to set remote flash and your camera.... explained few times before. I am sure you will manage to do it.</p>

<p>Read many posts over last 2 years on photo.net, to gain understanding that seems would help you. </p>

<p>Good Luck!</p>

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<p>"There's no reason you can't use a radio trigger with an SB600" - if you want to ruin your photo, go ahead.<br>

Radio means do not have capabilities to command FP sequences, (yet).</p>

<p>We are talking here about the Fast Sync FP mode, right?</p>

<p>You cannot radio trigger any flash when you are in FP mode, since the radio triggered remote flash would fire shot duration blast, and not long duration stroboscobic sequence that is conducted and controlled by the commanding optical/IR CLS signals. </p>

<p>While you can trigger via radio, it does not make sense in FP mode, as you would have picture with a narrow white overexposed area of the picture done by the instance of the external radio triggered flash, and the rest of the picture would be exposed properly by the CLS stroboscopic flashing sequence.</p>

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<p>Devices that propagate to farther distances the CLS commanding protocol signals, by converting them to radio coded signals, promiss tuture possibility to also include the CLS FP commanding. They would have no means to exclude CLS FP from the CLS protocol, being just replicators with no brains.</p>

<p>While Radio Poppers, and equivalent devices from Pocket Wizard maker, have some success to work with Canon's ETTL/ETTL II system, Nikon's CLS system devices continue to be be in the development stages, and no reliable system exists yet, for reasons that were explained in details before.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p><em>You cannot radio trigger any flash when you are in FP mode, since the radio triggered remote flash would fire shot [short] duration blast</em></p>

<p>Are you sure about that? The shutter contacts remain closed as long as the shutter is open, and my Pocketwizard continues to transmit (and receive) as long as the contacts are closed. Since the FP mode works (in manual mode) with the flash on the camera, it will work remotely in the same fashion. What you lose is command and control, including the ability of the camera to automatically institute FP mode based on shutter speed.</p>

<p>FP mode is strictly manual exposure (at a greatly reduced power level). Other than remote initiation, I see no advantage to CLS, since there is no automatic exposure capability. On the other hand, I see a lot of challenges to using any optical triggering method, including CLS, in bright sunlight, distances more than 15' or without line-of-sight control.</p>

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<p>"FP mode is strictly manual exposure" - not any longer. The CLS provides automatic exposure with multiple remote FP flashes. Though the manual FP mode is also available, but it is not the same as the old Nikon FP (non CLS) mode. That is why you cannot use older Nikon FP mode flashes on the CLS cameras with FP mode.</p>

<p>The old FP mode that you know about is totally different than the CLS FP mode, as CLS FP involes pre-flashes, and proper remote flashes programming, as well as commanding the FP sequence. </p>

<p>"I see no advantage to CLS, since there is no automatic exposure capability" - Ed, you need to catch up with things...</p>

<p> </p>

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<p><em>"I see no advantage to CLS, since there is no automatic exposure capability" - Ed, you need to catch up with things...</em></p>

<p>You're right, I had some catching up to do. There is no manual FP mode in my SB-800, so I programmed my D3 for 1/250(FP) mode and tried it out. In a word, I'm underwhelmed, but it does work and I don't need to fiddle with the opaque menu structure in my old SB-80 and SB-28 flashes. I can't tell (and the manuals don't say) if the flash power adjusts according to conditions in the Auto-FP mode.</p>

<p>The interesting thing is, I can set up three lights with a flash meter in about the same time it takes to program a CLS flash setup. The other thing is, the old-fashioned way works the <strong>same </strong>way every time you press the button, even if someone show a little more or less skin or white shirt to the camera.</p>

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