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Canon 7D firing a Speedlite 430 II


david_dinisco

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<p>I want to be able to fire my speedlite 430 wirelessly from my 7D without firing the built-in flash. But each time I shoot it fires BOTH the built-in flash and the 430. How can I get it to only fire the 430 wirelessly?<br>

Under flash controls / wireless func...I have selected the icon which displays only the external flash (not either of the ones with two icons), as indicated on pg20 of the 7D manual.<br>

Thanks in advance.<br>

David</p>

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<p>The remote is triggered by the popup flash. It has to fire to trigger the remote. This is noticeable mostly when pointed straight at a mirror or glass window. In most other situations, it adds little light to the scene, and I seldom find it too objectionable. Fellow photographers reading your lighting might notice the little pinprick reflecting back in spherical reflections, but few other people seem to pay attention to such things. I tried covering the flash tube with 1/2" lithographer's tape, but mostly have stopped trying to fight it, and use it as a very low ratio fill light instead.</p>
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<p>I tried the 7D popup as a flash trigger and hated the pulsing disco light. Between the AF assist and E-TTL pulses I almost got up and did the freakin' Hustle. My antique ST-E2 is so much more elegant: near IR AF assist and flash trigger. Plus the external controls are a lot faster to use than menu driving on the 7D.</p>

Sometimes the light’s all shining on me. Other times I can barely see.

- Robert Hunter

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<p>David, can you rule out the on-board flash adding to your images? I mean, yes, it flashes, but is it adding anything to your image, or are you just concerned that it flashes when you take a shot? Eliminate a defect first. It is a little disconcerting at times (Puppy Face, thanks a lot man, now I'm going to be humming that all day). If it really bothers you, get the ST-E2.</p>
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<p>The STE2 uses a flash tube with an IR filter. Lithographer's tape effectively turns the 7D's popup flash into an IR and long wave red emitter. I haven't checked what that does to outdoor range. It works fine for the short distances I need it indoors. The AF assist still works as bad as it ever did, but I expect there that it cut the range a bit. Lithographer's tape is self adhesive and peels off cleanly. Amazon sells it for $6 a roll. Pre-cut a bunch, a little overlength, and fold one end over itself so you can peel it off easily. Stack them on a credit card size plastic something or other, and keep it in your camera bag. Use it like racecar drivers use visor peel-offs. The little bit of heat from the flash curls and distorts the tape, so it lasts only a short while. If it bothers you enough -- it doesn't bother me to that extent -- the only other choice is to abandon the popup and spend the $250 for an STE2.</p>

 

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  • 1 month later...

<p>Well, I was interested in trying to just use a remote flash as well, and I'll be damned if I can figure out how to keep the pop-up flash from firing. There is an icon that just chooses the speedlite, but even when you select it, both still fire. The best I can do is choose a ratio between the two and set the pop-up for the least amount. Very strange. I think this may be a defect with the camera... and I'm guessing it may be with every unit. </p>

<p> </p>

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<p>Well, I did some test shots and everything appears to be working as its supposed to. Even though the front pop-up flash does indeed fire, it must do it right before the shutter opens, because there was no light thrown on to the front of my subject. Here's a side by side with just the remote flash selected and another one with the remote and the pop-up with an 8:1 ratio. Now I'll have to try this out on something besides action figures!</p><div>00WQZi-242923584.jpg.4607a79da878775993074f3d52273b7f.jpg</div>
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