which lens to choose for killer whale photography

[ronald_loriaux]

In November I am going to photograph killer whales in the Tysfjord in

Norway from both a rubber boat and a regular boat. The photo's will

be published. I am a Canon EOS user.

 

For lenses I am doubting between an EF 70-200/2.8 IS (plus 1.4 TC),

an EF 100-400/4.5-5.6 IS, or an EF 300/4 IS. If not one of the zoom's

I also need a wide angle lens like a 20-35/3.5-4.5 or a 20/2.8.

 

I now own a canon ef 28-105/3.5-4.5, a 75-300/4.5-5.6 USM IS and a EF

300/2.8.

 

IMO as light will be low, the boats trembling and crowded, the 75-300

will be a bit too slow and the 300/2.8 too bulky.

 

What is my best choice ?

 

Ronald Loriaux

[marcus_erne]

I am not a Canon user, but have "tried" to shoot whales in South Africa...

 

My vote goes to 100-400 IS because of the zomming/cropping ability.

I'd also like to have something like the 28-135 IS on a second body. In these situations the IS feature is a clear advantage for Canon!

 

Cheers,

Marcus

[bob stewart jacksonville]

for this assignment, the 300 f/4 IS is a great choice. You can handhold it on a crowded boat, and its very sharp. I was on a recent killer whale watching trip and I took the 300 f/4 Is and the 28-135 IS. If you already have a 300 2.8 though, I'm not sure I'd spend $1200 on a 300 f/4 just for this.

[bill_proud]

Ron,

 

I'll try to up-load the visual. I shot whales with EOS 1N, 70-200 2.8/L with and without the 1.4X. You never know where they will surface and the zoom capabilities allow for faster framing. The image is almost full frame but I can't remember if a doubler is on this shot.

 

This was from a Zodiac and I was graciously allowed by others to sit in front so I could turn both directions quickly. I braced my feet and legs against the seats and sidewalls for stability but the IS would have been better. This wasn't specifically a whale shoot so this image is from the one roll I shot. One thing I can say is the Canon system autofocuses very quickly. The looks I got were eyeblinks. You had to spot, frame, zoom, focus, and shoot in fractions of a second.

 

Good luck,

 

Provia 100F, pushed a stop

[jgaulke]

I've done some in Hawaii on dolphins / humpbacks. To me it's not the size of the lens, it speed. These animals can appear anywhere from right next to the boat, to all the way out. I've had best luck with the Sigma 70-200 2.8 I own. Coupled with fast film, I can usually handhold most shots. I've gone to the 300 2.8 on a monopod on larger boats. I'm guessing the Zodiac owners probably wouldn't take to that too well.

[rick_wong]

Hi Ron

You are right about the low light but the problem with shooting the 300/2.8 is not being bulky but DOF. I have shot with my 70-210 2.8 zoom and 300/2.8 I found that most of the shots that were not sharp was because of DOF not camera movement. I shoot Nikon so my last time out I shot with my 80-400 VR zoom. I was able to get a few keepers. Some examples can be found in my cruising Alaska slideshow: http://rickwong.com/Cruising%20Alaska.html

 

Orcas travel in pods so when you get into them they can be all around. My favorite spot is the Bow because you will be able to cover 180 degrees.

[george_mcc]

Ronald,

 

I´ve been photographing killer whales in Tysfjord every year since 1993. It depends on when in November you come, but I´d strongly recommend an F2.8 lens - so in your case, I´d bring the 300. a few years ago, I used a 300F4 IS but now use a 70-200L F2.8. Low light is a major problem - around the 19th of November, the sun disappears below the horizon for two months.

 

The 300mm will probably be a bit too bulky for the zodiac if the zodiac is full, but fine on the larger boat - bear in mind to bring a small waterproof bag to cover your camera in the zodiac - you WILL get wet.Position on the zodiac does´nt matter at all - sometimes the whales will be in front - behind - either side - I actually prefer the back as I can switch sides quickly and its more stable from passenger movement due to the motor.

 

Leave your velvia at home basically. We reckon on maybe 4 perfect days a season, where light is perfect and flat calm - it can quite often be overcast with snowstorms and or rain - it depends on many factors.Overcast is the norm rather than the exception.

 

You can see some Tysfjord images on my website at : http://www.whalephoto.com

 

When you arrive at Tysfjord turistsenter in Storjord, just ask for me at the desk, they´ll know where I am - buy me a beer and I´ll tell you all I know *grin*

 

Skol...

 

George

 

PS .. you can also see what happens each day + news at http://www.tysfjord-turistsenter.no/safari/english/Latest_news/latest_news.html

 

It will be regularly updated from the 16th of October - with D30 images and news.<div></div>

[jason_stoller]

I would suggest the 70-200L 2.8 IS lens, and the 2x II teleconverter. Also a good quality filter because of salt water that might affect your lense coatings because from what you described you may get wet so protect your camera. A polarizer is a must because you do not know the conditions you might face on any given day so you really need to be prepared. I captured images a whales in Alaska in June of this year and this is the combination I used along with the 1D. Another advantage to the 1D and the 70-200 IS and teleconverter, is they are weathersealed. Remember you are going to be bouncing up and down on a boat so IS is an asset. I also had the 20-35 Usm and the 28-135 IS lens with me.

 

Jason