henning_stedtnitz Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 <p>I bought a GS-1 from KEH.com a while ago, with the 100mm f/3.5 lens. I put a 4LR44 battery in it, took two shots and then it stopped working. Meaning when I press the shutter release, the shutter goes off but the mirror stays down. The only way to move the mirror is with the MLU switch (which is kinda sketchy) and by gravity, turning the camera upside down. So I mailed KEH and upon their request sent back the body only. They sent me a replacement for free, so I put the battery in it, took two shots and it stopped working. So I put a brand new 4LR44 in, and it worked for five exposures and then quit working again. KEH mentionend that the alkaline batteries might not work perfectly with the GS-1, so I put in a 4SR44, wich is a silver lithium battery, and it doesnt work at all.<br /> Is there any explanation for this behavior? Are there any mistakes in the handling of the camera that I could be making that might explain this? Please share any thoughts you may have.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_f Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 <p>I thought I posted a reply, but don't see it. Briefly, it may be an issue with the MLU. Here's something I picked up a while ago:<br> "Bronica GS-1 Mirror Up<br> The instructions for this are rather convoluted, as I recall. The simple part is to flip the MLU when you are set, then take your shot. (it's the small lever on the lower front of the body) The <strong><em>important </em></strong>thing is to move the lever back <strong><em>before</em></strong> winding on to the next frame. If you make the mistake of forgetting this, you do not have to waste a frame. First, put your lens cap on. Then set the GS-1 to multiple exposure. Then fire your shutter. Reset your MLU, turn off your multiple exposure and all will be well. "</p> <p>Could also be something to do with lens or film back not being cocked or in sync. That's all I can think of. Good luck.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard baznik Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 <p>It does sound like the mirror problem is related to the MLU setting, which is indeed pretty arcane. Richard's method does work.<br> More concerning is the battery issue. In general, lithium batteries are not recommended for the GS-1 because they drain down slowly and can lead to components malfunctioning without warning as the power level gets low. I would ask KEH to put a battery in another body and test it BEFORE they send it to you.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard baznik Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 <p>It does sound like the mirror problem is related to the MLU setting, which is indeed pretty arcane. Richard's method does work.<br> More concerning is the battery issue. In general, lithium batteries are not recommended for the GS-1 because they drain down slowly and can lead to components malfunctioning without warning as the power level gets low. I would ask KEH to put a battery in another body and test it BEFORE they send it to you.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henning_stedtnitz Posted March 22, 2010 Author Share Posted March 22, 2010 <p>Actually, I have to correct myself. If I flip the MLU switch, the lens shutter closes, but the mirror only moves when I flip the camera upside down. When I noticed this problem first, I took out the wasted roll of film, removed the actual film from the backing paper and used the backing paper in the film back so I could test the thing without wasting film. I've been playing with it for a while and on a few rare occasions, sometimes using the MLU switch, the mirror actually flipped up by itself. This has happened maybe three times in about a hundred test "exposures".<br> I have a Varta V28PXL in the mail that I will test with this body (btw KEH tested this body and said it worked perfectly, same for the other body that I sent them), so that would be the third battery I put in there. At some point I guess I'll realize this problem is more complex than batteries and stop buying new ones :/</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff_livacich Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 <p>In reference to using lithium batteries in the GS-1: Bronica's website says, "Forget it."<br /> http://www.tamron.com/bronica/batteries.asp</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henning_stedtnitz Posted March 23, 2010 Author Share Posted March 23, 2010 <p>Okay, let's see how the V28PXL works out.<br> On a sidenote, I have developed both rolls that I used in the GS-1, one had four exposed frames, the other two. All of them were perfectly exposed. So the shutter is definitely not the problem. All I can think of now is a synchronization issue. Or the battery, of course.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henning_stedtnitz Posted March 27, 2010 Author Share Posted March 27, 2010 <p>The V28PXL changes nothing. So it has to be the lens contacts, right?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff_livacich Posted March 27, 2010 Share Posted March 27, 2010 <p>I don't have a GS-1, so I will relate this to my ETR-Si. I had the same problem. I don't know if the cause is the same in your case, but it could be.</p> <p>Fire the camera without the lens attached. If it does not function you know it's the body. If it functions it's probably the lens. The body transfers motion to the lens to first close the lens and aperture before the mirror flips up. If the mechanism within the lens that transfers that motion is stiff the body won't have enough spring force to overcome it. You will hear what sounds like the shutter releasing but the cycle will stall before the mirror goes up.</p> <p>One of my lenses had dried-out lubricant in it which caused the problem. As it was a 75mm, not worth the price of a CLA, I cleaned and relubed it myself. I never got near the shutter/aperture mechanism; just the stuff moved by the pins on the back.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henning_stedtnitz Posted March 27, 2010 Author Share Posted March 27, 2010 <p>Body functions absolutely perfectly without the lens. Should have tested this fricking ages ago. The pin in the lens that is supposed to be moved by the mechanism in the body seems very stiff to me. So this is probably exactly the same as your ETRSI problem. I have mailed KEH asking very kindly if a replacement would be possible. If not, I'll shell out the 350 and get a 110mm macro lens, which I was planning on anyway.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff_livacich Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 <p>Maybe they'll credit you the value of the faulty lens. I know their warranty period for something wrong is 60 days. They gave me a little more than that once.<br> I figure since they've been working with you already they'll accept it back.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henning_stedtnitz Posted April 7, 2010 Author Share Posted April 7, 2010 <p>KEH have answered that they will definitely replace the faulty lens, so I sent it off yesterday. Can't begin to explain how happy I am with their customer support.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now