www.flickr.comphotostmcc Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 <p>Hello there,<br> I shot some Efke 25 speed film in my epic stylus and as the range begins at iso 50 so I was wondering what the camera would have defaulted to? I am hoping ISO 50 so I don't have to push the film too much, but if anyone knows let me know.<br> Thanks!<br> Tom</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_robison3 Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 <p>Does your camera have a backlight switch? If so usually it's +1.5 stops and that should be almost right with the ISO set to 50 but I don't know if the Stylus has one.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_s Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 <p>Tom, I have the manual for the mju-II/Infinity Stylus Epic, the 35/2.8 version. I don't know if you have the identical model.</p> <p>On page 112, in the specifications, it says the following: <em>Film speed range: Automatic setting with DX-coded film with ISO 50, 100, 200, 400, 800 1600, 3200. <strong>For non DX-coded film and film with less than ISO 50, film speed is set to ISO 100.</strong></em><br> <strong><em></em></strong><br> This means it is going to underexpose by two stops. John's idea is a good one, except I believe the camera doesn't have a backlight switch. But there's an easy solution, since the camera does have a narrow-angle metering function. (It doesn't say how narrow the angle is, but I'm sure it's not a true spot meter.)</p> <p>What I suggest is meter on 'something dark', like Zone III if you're into that stuff, and let the camera base the exposure on that. Choose an important shadow zone and use the narrow-angle meter-- or you could even choose something outside the frame. Based on that reading, the camera will automatically dish out two stops extra exposure, and Bob's your uncle.</p> <p>I'm no expert, but this turns out to be exactly what I do using my old Luna-Pro meter with medium format cameras-- I use the narrow-angle (7.5 degree) attachment, meter off my darkest large shadow region, and set that as two stops below middle grey. I almost never take an average reading. This method gives me decent exposure of the shadows, and it is usually nearly the same as an incident light reading.</p> <p>Please follow up, and tell us how you get on with this. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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