Best Manual Nikon Body??????

[laura_caldwell1]

It is time to ask the question. What is the best (in all your Nikonian

experienced opinions) manual NIKON body? I have been told by many that

it is the FM2 (I am in Canada), is this true or do you hold another

manual body close to your hearts and if so, why? I do not wish to

start a war on favorites, rather get a lot of honest opinions to help

me make the right decision for a USED purchase.

 

FYI - it will be my second 35mm body (i currently have the F100). I

wish to used all my AF-D lenses on this body and it will be used for

many applications such as weddings, portraits of kids & babies,

landscape......

 

Thank you to all who reply. Your time is appreciated.

 

Laura

[scott_eaton]

FM2

[gannet___]

F2AS. Maybe the best manual SLR ever, by anybody.

[cd thacker]

Another good question. I'm tempted to agree with Scott that it's the FM2(n). But before I do that, I think the real question has to be, "Best in terms of what, exactly?" For instance, if you're talking about best overall - build quality, reputation, simplicity, durability - I think a very strong case could be made for the F2(as). Its downside is: weight (too heavy); size (too large); age (they haven't made any in quite some time, so I hear; and if a meter cell goes, you're likely looking at a non-metering body, as the repair will be very expensive, or, more likely, impossible; though using it sans meter wouldn't be all that bad; still, it is old).<P>

 

Then too, the F3(HP) certainly has its proponents. It's a design that is hard to argue with, and one manufactured by Nikon up until the end of last year, I believe. You can probably get one relativly cheaply, new-in-box, and be assured of reliable parts supply (which you likely won't need) for at least the next ten years. Pro build quality; smaller; 100% viewfinder coverage; changeable pentaprism and true mirror lockup; the list goes on.<P>

 

Then there is the F4(s) - also made until recently and the only body that allows matrix metering with manual AI and AIS lenses (as well as AF lenses, of course). It is big and heavy, though (with power booster attached it's the same weight as the F5).<P>

 

And, in some ways, maybe best of all, the FM3A. Granted, you're not likely to find a used one - not yet; but it does combine the best features of the FM2 (all-mechanical, battery-free operation; size; weight) with match-needle metering - which is more intuitive and easier to use with precision, than is the FM2's LED readout. And, this camera gives you the option of automatic exposure.<P>

 

(Trailing not too far behind the above list - but not on it - is the FE2, and maybe even the FE. They are not on my list (especially the FE2) soley because of the increasing difficulty of finding repair parts.)<P>

 

I guess the upshot is that you almost can't go wrong, no matter which of these you choose. If it were me, I'd probably go FM3A, FM2N, F3HP; in that order. Then again, maybe I'd switch the order around (that is, F3HP first). If I didn't care about size and weight (and the aging meter), I'd definitely pick up an F2AS.

[kelly_flanigan1]

I have 2 Nikon F's and one F2. If one ever fails; I will know the answer. All were bought used; and never had to be repaired.

[carl smith]

I don't know, but I sure love my FM. I do want to pick up an F3HP though.

[hil3]

The F2 with the DP-12 finder (the AS finder) is got to be the epitome of the manual SLR. It is rugged, precise, ergonomically perfect. It is not too heavy; all other SLR's are too light ;0). And I say this not just because I've used one for 25 years! The DP-11 finder is also very fine with the F2, making it the F2A. I have both finders and like both equally well. I have gone for years at a time with one or the other finder on exclusively. There may be arguably finer lenses than Nikkor, but no finer body. The legendary Leica M's are fragile compared to the F2.

 

A very opinionated, expert, entertaining, and informative discussion of the various Nikon bodies, rated from best to worst can be found at Gandy's site, www.cameraquest.com. Required surfing for any camera afficionado. A real treasure-trove of information.

[richard_cochran]

What's your definition of manual? The F3 has fully automatic

exposure, so it's disqualified by some, as are the FE, FE2, FM3a,

Nikkormat EL, etc. The F3 was certainly called an automatic

camera when it was introduced. But some may take "manual" to

mean "manual focus", and that's what I'll assume from here on...

<p>

As an owner of an FM, FM2n, and F3, there's no question the F3

offers superior build quality, durability, and ergonomics to

the FM series, though the FM series are a tiny bit smaller and

have faster flash sync. Hold an FM and F3, operate the controls,

and try advancing the film a few times to see why the F3 has

always commanded several times the price of an FM series.

I especially like the F3HP viewfinder, since I must wear

glasses, and it lets me see the whole frame at once, unlike

the FM series. As a bonus, it can be swapped

for a DW-3 waistlevel finder to make the camera super

lightweight, stealthy for street candids, and handy for macro

use (no lying on the belly to look at the viewfinder).

Furthermore, there's no question that the MD-4 is much

better than the MD-12 in every way I can

think of, except that it's a bit bigger and heavier.

<p>

When I'm travelling, I'll load high speed film into the FM2n

for nighttime use and flash use, and keep slower film in the

F3 for everything else. If I could have only one camera, it'd

definitely be the F3HP. But the FM/FM2n are nice cameras

too, and I'll never give them up. In addition to the faster

flash sync, they've got a proper hot shoe right above the lens,

and I like the LED meter readout, especially in dark situations.

<p>

I've used an F2 quite a bit, as well, and if you exclude

autoexposure, it's the best manual Nikon I know. The

large metered prisms seem a bit clumsy, though.

[david_kelly1]

If you wear glasses, choose between an F3HP and an F4 in its lightest

configuration with the MB20. If you don't wear glasses also look at

the FM3a. In fact if you don't wear glasses BUY an FM3a: It has a

better feature set than the F3HP and is less than half the weight of

the feature-laden F4. The F4 is closest to my heart though, because I

can't hold it up off my chest for very long..............

[colin carron]

Hil, - good link!

 

Laura, - does it have to be mechanical or is manual electronic allowed? For fully mechanical the FM2n is hard to beat but for handling I like the FE2 best. These cameras do pretty much everything the big beasts do but are smaller and handier. I like the match needle metering and auto-exposure option of the FE2. I have not had any problems getting spares.(yet).

[richard_milner2]

For your requirements I would pick the FM2n.

 

Reasons:

 

1. Fully mechanical (except the meter).

 

2. Lighter and handier than the F100 or F2, etc.

 

3. Lots of recent, good condition, 2nd hand units available at good prices, because of the introduction of the FM3a.

[edsel_adams]

The FM2n is indeed an awesome manual camera.I use these for wedding candids.Some of my bodies have seen 1000's of rolls without a hitch or glitch!The FM series cameras are solid & reliable,but small in my large hands W/O the motor drive unit attached.The F2 is now a 20-30 year old machine,its meter can be finicky after this time and it is no lightweight!However,if any Nikon manual focus body had to be chosen as the strongest,best built & least likely to fail in the "field",hands down the F2 wins.

[fpa]

Not to disagree, but I'd have to say the original F. (though they're getting long in the tooth). Comfortable to handhold, heavy enough to use at low shutter speeds, only the controls you'll need, and no electronics to die at an inopportune moment. My former boss from the newspaper loved the handling of his F2, but claimed it was a hypochondriac, and I'd probably have to reluctantly agree that mine is as well. I put 13 years on the F (1964 model) at an average rate of 2 rolls a month (more when traveling), and recently had it overhauled. The F2 was balky at first, but an apparently minor repair to the shutter release put an end to that.

 

This being said, the FM2 and FM2n are supposed to be very nice, though they feel kind of light and small to me.

[jonmy7]

the FM3a is on my wish list. maybe in 12 mths hopefully some used ones will emerge (and give time to save/ justify to my wide ;-)

[mskovacs]

Depends a little on your needs...

 

If you want to talk about motorized bodies, nothing beats the F3HP and MD-4 in my opinion. My last battery change got about 140 rolls of 36 exposures including motorized rewinding on regular alkalines. I own two F3HP bodies and one MD-4 motor drive.

 

This is because the film advance on the F3 is just SOOOOOO SMOOTH! (try anything else and it feels cheaper, especially the FM/FE series)

 

I've used these cameras in wet outdoor conditions here on the west coast and the electronics have not failed me yet. (the mechanics have once: degraded mirror foam got into the gears) I take care of my cameras but I don't baby them. They are tools I use in the field to get the nature photos I want. (I am not a pro)

 

I'm also a Canuck and wouldn't mind having an all-mechanical body for when I leave the comfortable climate of the Frasier Valley and head into the bleak mountain temperatures. I'm greedy though: I want Nikon F series quality (100% viewfinder, mirror lock, interchangeable finders etc) but I also want 1/250 flash synch and high eyepoint viewing. So far Nikon hasn't got there. I'd kill for an "F3S" with all these features and a TTL flash shoe on the prism!

 

I have to admit that the FM3A is just about there. For my type of work, the mirror lock is more important than the flash synch (a paltry 1/80" on the F3HP).

 

I'm tempted to get an F4. Its basically what my greediness is asking for but is technically an autofocus body.

[laura_caldwell1]

Hello all, thank you for responding to my question.

 

Is the FM2 and FM2n the same camera? AND, does ANYONE

have any experience or opinions of the new FM3A? I have been

doing a lot of research into this and figure maybe I should go

with that one (FM3A). Any reasons to stick to the FM2? Please

share your thoughts.

 

Thanks again ro responding.

 

Laura

[mskovacs]

Although "FM2" is normally referring to the FM2n, the answer is technically no. For the first year of production, an FM2 with 1/200 flash synch was produced. It was later replaced with the new (hence the n) FM2n with a 1/250 flash synch.

 

Try here for loads of info:

 

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm2/index.htm

 

You are going to have a tough time finding a used FM3A. The camera was only released to the public last year.

[jim_gifford]

Reasons to stick with the FM2 or FM2n: It's available used, it's therefore less expensive to get ahold of, and the model has decades of field experience indicating it is generally a very reliable beast. The only battery-dependent component is the exposure meter.

 

The FM3a is not "proven" in the same sense, although certainly it is built upon that foundation.

 

It's new, and comparatively expensive, and it adds aperture-priority autoexposure, TTL flash, match needle meter indication (instead of the "- o +" LED readout), and has a couple of other tweaks like a film window in the back, exposure lock and fill-flash buttons and the ability to read the DX coding on film canisters to set ISO film speed automatically.

 

Nikon's expectation is that the FM3a will prove attractive to anyone who would otherwise have bought an FM2n, plus a raft of other potential buyers who want just a bit of electronic wizardry.

 

Count me among the "other potential buyers" who just couldn't spring for the FM2n... I am too reliant upon TTL for flash shots. For me, the FM2n was a window-shopping exercise. The FM3a, by contrast, sucked a hole in my wallet and landed beside my N90s here in my case.

[craig_zeni]

The F2AS is a wonderful thing - all mechanical, good meter, nice tactile feel. The only way anybody will get mine is pry it from my cold dead hands.

 

But having said that, I concur with the other reply naming the F4...sure it's autofocus, but I find the AF to be poor by today's standards, and so nearly always use my F4 as a MF - gets you good metering, a built in winder and easy to use controls.

[graham_line]

Conversely, those of us with no need for TTL flash are clinging to our simple FM2n's, proving there is no one universal best Nikon body. But there is enough variety in the line to meet most needs, the real value of a system camera.

[Ray House]

Laura, go to the camera store and pick up each type mentioned. Look through the finder, work the controls and check for compatability of each for the type of work you do. You will then have your answer!

My choice would be the F3.

[nate_mertz]

NIKON FE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[milind]

Nikon FM2N without any doubt at all.

[john_n._wall]

F3HP -- all the flexibility and quality of a pro Nikon body, a worthy successor to the F and F2. UNLESS you want to be able to switch into AF mode once in a while, and get three metering systems, built-in motor drive, and access to TTL flash in the bargain. Then get the F4.

 

To make it more like the F3, get the MB-20 battery pack which makes the camera much smaller and lighter.

 

See the F4 FAQ at

 

http://www4.ncsu.edu/unity/users/j/jnwall/html/f4faq.htm

 

for more details.

[lee_shively]

Nikon F2 (in ANY of its configurations). It improved on what was, until then, the best SLR in the world--the Nikon F.

 

In my opinion, each subsequent camera Nikon built was inferior to the F2.