Which Lens for B&G Portraits?

[chimera_h]

<p>Which lens do you use for Bride & Groom portraits? I tend to carry my 70-200mm and my 17-50 and 28-75 mm lenses and I usually end up using one of the wide angles lenses. I do have a 50mm 1.8, so I'm wondering if that would be better. I'm also considering buying a Canon 60mm lens. Anyway, curious to know what you all use.</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

[bill_clark___minnetonka_mi]

<p>I use a 85mm f1.4 Zeiss for my Canon 5D and a 150mm Zeiss Sonnar f 4.0 for my Hasselblad 500C. I use the Hasselblad to make B&W photos.</p>

[ejder]

<p>By themselves, usually 35L and 85L get the most use, plus some use of my sigma 10-20 and/or a little bit of fisheye. Others would say 24-70, 70-200, 24mm, 50mm, ultrawide, or whatever fits the bill for that photographer. There is no "right choice," only the one that best fits your style.</p>

[ed_farmer]

<p>My favorite is my 80-200/f2.8. This does require some working distance though . . .</p>

[wedding-photography-denver]

<p>I like something in the range of 28mm for vistas, 50mm for 3/4 length, and 85 or 135 for head shots or more distant compressed full length. This is very dependent on your personal style.</p>

[juanita_ramirez]

<p>On full frame body, I use the 85mm prime. On crop body, I use the 50mm 1.4. Before that I often even used the nifty fifty on a crop body and got great results. </p>

<p>If you're talking about portraits where you have time to set them up into poses and they're "all yours" for a few minutes, then I personally like to use an excellent quality prime at 1.8 or wider and zoom with my feet. If I'm capturing action that can't be repeated, then I'm more likely to use a zoom lens so that I can frame the subject more quickly.</p>

<p>The only problem with shooting that wide open is you're going to have to make sure to get them in focus. It will be tough, because even the slightest movements are going to push them out. I'm sure you can find information elsewhere with tips and tricks for getting subjects in focus. I won't tell you how I do it because I think the p.net people would look down on my method, but I will tell you that my brides and grooms get lots of great photos, but they don't get any photos (especially set-up portraits) that aren't sharply in focus at 100% zoom. </p>

[theresa_skutt]

<p>Doesn't it depend on the shot & the conditions? Outside/inside, dark/sunny/ full body/closeup....? I like a good zoom because I can stay away and let real interaction happen and still capture it.</p>

[picturesque]

<p>It depends on what kind of bride and groom portraits you are talking about. Obviously, full lenghs can be shot with anything from an extreme wide angle (where you get distortion if you're not careful) to a mid or even longer telephoto. Half lengths and close ups, though, are probably best with telephotos, both for perspective and for not having to get uncomfortably close to your subjects. There are successful half lengths and close-ups, though, that are shot with wide angles.</p>

<p>My question would be, why do you end up using the wide angles? If it is because a zoom is too convenient, causing you to just zoom from wherever you are standing in relation to your subjects, then use of a specific single focal length lens is a very good thing, It will force you to use your feet and to perhaps think about how focal length affects your final image--both in how the subjects will look and how the background or environment will look in relation to them.</p>

<p>This is not to say that the convenience of a zoom can't be used brilliantly by a photographer who thinks about these things before taking the picture. When I have trained beginners, I would tell them to set the lens focal length <strong>before</strong> taking the picture, forcing them to move back or forward first.</p>

<p>A 60mm lens on a cropped sensor body is 96mm. It would be good for half lengths and close-ups for sure, and could be made to work on full lengths, although you will have to be about 18-20 feet back from your subjects. On the plus side, re your other question about shallow DOF, you got relatively 'more' DOF with telephotos, and combined with the 'more' DOF of 2.8 (as opposed to f5.6), you have a good chance of blurring out the background pretty well, or at least, better than with a wide angle. On a full frame body, I would not like a 60mm so much. OK for full lengths, but not long enough for the kind of shots I'd like for half lengths and close ups.</p>

[rt_jones]

<p>Nadine, you need to write a book.</p>

[picturesque]

<p>RT--is that a good thing? Or do I talk too much...don't answer that. :^)</p>

[dave_wilson1]

I choose whatever lens gives me the view of the subject in relation to the background control that I want. Sometimes the 50mm or 85mm on a crop body is fine, other times it would be 180mm or 300mm from a good distance. I might shoot from even a great distance and talk to the subject or an assistant on small walkie-talkies. On the Hasselblad I often use the 100 or 180, thats not as long but gives me a look I like. As far as wide goes, I personally don't shoot wider than 50mm on the Nikon crops except for candids or pj type work. Anything serious wide like environmental or group portraits I only use a Hasselblad with film and 50mm fle lens and have the film professionally scanned to cd or printed. I know everything here sounds wacky but so am I.

[William Michael]

<p><strong><em>Which lens do you use for Bride & Groom portraits? </em></strong></p>

<p>Depends on what type. I have used anything from 16 to 300</p>

<p>Ditto Juanita, as the <em><strong>"most used / most liked" :</strong></em> my 85 on a 5D for set / controlled shots, and usually 16 to 35 on APS-C . . . or a 35mm or 50mm a 5D for more casual portraiture.</p>

<p><strong><em>“and I usually end up using one of the wide angles lenses.”</em></strong><br>

<strong><em></em></strong><br>

<strong><em></em></strong><br>

Ditto Nadine – Ask yourself "Why?"</p>

<p><strong><em></em></strong><br>

<strong><em>“I do have a 50mm 1.8, so I'm wondering if that would be better” </em></strong></p>

<p>Try it.</p>

<p>First, perhaps try it in a controlled and less stressful situation, like an engagement shoot.</p>

<p><strong><em>“I'm also considering buying a Canon 60mm lens.”</em></strong></p>

<p>I assume the EF-S 60 mm F2.8 macro lens?</p>

<p>And I assume you mentioned that fact because you are considering using this lens as Portrait lens as well as Macro?</p>

<p>IMO, 60mm on an APS-C is a good, useful FL and F/2.8 is fast enough for shallow DoF for mostly all Portrait Shots. I have not used this lens, but I would expect it to be sharp wide open – maybe a touch slower AF than other lenses.</p>

<p>BUT as you already have a 50mm Priome, I think you should consider the either of the 100F/2.8 lenses for the Macro.</p>

<p>Two Reasons: as a Macro it gives you a greater working distance than the 60. I found the 100 on an APS-C useful when shooting Rings in Flowers, Cakes tops, etc because I am not working so close . . . just think about the MACRO working distance.</p>

<p>And the second reason: Portraiture with Primes - the 100 fits as a good mate to the 50mm as the longer Portrait Prime Lens, for your kit. And the 100 is lighter, smaller and if you have a Canon 70 to 200 the 100 is Black, not, white thus less visually intrusive than your 70 to 200 zoom lens. All sometimes more leverage for Portraiture esepcailly for Posed / Formal shots. </p>

<p>WW</p>