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Light-meter innacurate on my Leica M6 !


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<p>Hi !<br /> <br /> I noticed that suddenly, the lightmeter has became totally crazy on my Leica M6 !<br /> <br /> I checked by taking a mesure on the sky with my Nikon D700 AND my Gossen Lunasix 3, which both gave me 1:500 @ f/13 at ISO 400 !<br /> <br /> When mesuring with the Leica -of course also at ISO 400-, it gives me 1:500 @ f/4 !<br /> <br /> I know I didn't bang it and the battery is OK !<br /> <br /> What had happened ? How can I repair it or re-set it ?<br /> <br /> Thank you in advance for your help...<br /> <br /> Regards,<br /> J-P.</p>
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<p>Are you measuring an area of the sky containing the sun? If so, try an area of the sky without the sun. The M6 is (I understand) essentially a large spot meter, so it's likely to be sensitive to where you point it if the sun is in the frame.</p>

<p>You might also try measuring something even more "even" like maybe the grass. If you do that and you still have wide variation, I might replace the battery anyway, just to be sure that it's not a bad battery. You might try checking the battery contacts to see if there's any obvious corrosion. In other cameras I've gently cleaned the contacts with a pencil eraser. Assuming none of that bears fruit, I guess you'll have to send it into Leica.</p>

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<p>Thanks Dave !<br>

I did shoot the sky as these days it's been so dull that even with a spotmeter, the light remeined exactly the same at any point !<br>

I will try to get a new battery and see... hoping not to have to send it in, because I guess Leica repair is the same as a dentist: before to check the problem it costs you an arm and a leg !<br>

Cheers,<br>

J-P.</p>

 

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<p>Posting on this group is a good idea to see if anyone has had the same problem. Maybe emailing someone like Tamarkin.com might be a good idea since he probably sees a lot of leicas and may have seen that particular issue before. I hope it turns out to be something relatively inexpensive.</p>
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<p>The electrical connections to the ASA dial on the back door are not known for their reliability, nor the contacts inside the ASA dial itself. A wipe with a soft clean cloth might be beneficial.<br>

(Stupid design, really, but the top deck of the camera is full of rangefinder. Doing the stylistic echo of the speed reminder dial on the M3 was a case of marketing over wise electro-mechanical design.)</p>

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<p>Change the ISO setting and make sure the selection disk pops back out fully at the new ISO. Meter the scene. If it's OK, change back to the initial ISO, again ensuring the selection disk engages totally at the new setting. That might do it.</p>
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<p>Thanks David, John and Richard for the tips !<br>

I'll try to check/change the battery, clean the electrical contacts and check the ISO disk... and if nothing changes i'll call a PRO to repair the camera !<br>

In any case I'll keep posting the results...<br>

Cheers,<br>

J-P.</p>

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<p>Since you're limited to metering reflective light, I'd meter your M6 against a gray card. Do the same with your Nikon and Goosen. You should also be able to meter ambient light with the Goosen and get the same reading, assuming your lighting conditions are identical to the light falling on/reflecting off the gray card.</p>
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<p>I had the exact same problem. Initially, chaging the ISO setting on the camera back worked. Also, stranglly evough, setting the shutter speed dial to B kind of "reset" the meter and that worked for a while. The problem kept resurfacing and since the camera hadn't been cla'd in 12 years I sent it to DAG for a cla with the information on the meter. A new meter board was NOT needed on my early M6, it was just a single wire out of place making a short circuit. Anyway, the camera came back better than new with no meter problems in the last 3 years. I do believe most of the other camera repair people would have just changed the meter board which is an easy, but expensive fix. Send it to DAG!</p>
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<p>"You might also try measuring something even more "even" like maybe the grass." </p>

<p>----Yes, I have noticed that grass often is a good zone 5, or 18%, reference point. So is an asphalt street that has weathered just the right amount. Neither is much of a lab standard, but I've often used them as a quick check of the midpoint exposure. Works pretty well as a substitute for the hypothetical average scene.</p>

<p>I Don't really expect any two meters to agree exactly, unless they are both both are part of the same camera model with the same lens. But f/4 is a long way from f/13--too far away. Still, I would re-check with another subject, like maybe a gray wall, before concluding anything is wrong.</p>

<p>Don't scrub gold contacts with an eraser! It will remove the gold plating. Use a soft cloth moistened with contact cleaner.</p>

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<p>I know this problem well. I highly recommend sending problematic Leicas to DAG or Golden Touch's Ms Krauter. For immediate relief try this. Scoot the ISO dial back and forth a few times. Usually the correct ISO comes back.<br>

My first and oldest M6 runs amok when I change ISOs. I do this procedure and it is okay.</p>

<p>My M7's ISO was suddenly going crazy at ISO 800, my usual setting. I finally decided to bite the bullet and let Tokyo Leica operate on it for 50,000 yen. Meanwhile, I happened to use 400 ISO film with it. Pop! No more problems! I suppose the M7 has white coat phobia (as do I).</p>

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<p>Thanks everybody !<br>

After having read several posts saying that the M6 is very "touchy" about the battery,<br>

I re-checked it and found it to be 2.94 V. !!! I bought a new one and put it on and... voila !<br>

I compared the M6 meter against my D700's meter, the Gossen Lunasix 3 and even a Sekonik L-308, and they ALL gave the same results, plus/minus 1/4 EV !<br>

Shezzzzz ! I really seems that as soon as the battery goes under 3 V., even slightly, the meter goes mad !<br>

I'm happy now... everything is back to order !<br>

Cheers,<br>

J-P.</p>

 

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<p>When I first got my M6 I put in a new battery and fairly soon after started having the same problem as you.<br>

A new battery fixed the problem and getting into the habit of putting the dial on "B" when I'm done with it helped also. I don't think I've changed the battery in five years at this point. </p>

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<p>This happened to my M6TTL and MP. The exposure was off by about 5 stops. I made sure it wasn't the battery of course by putting in fresh ones. The first time it was the M6TTL and Don couldn't fix it so I sent it to the Leica repair center here. It turned out to be corroded bushings under the shutter speed dial. They replaced it for $100 and it was fine. A few weeks ago I bought an 8 year old MP that the original claimed was never used. The meter only responded to really bright light source. In "normal" lighting the arrows would just flash. The local Leica repair center couldn't figure out what was wrong with it so it is now at Solms.</p>
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  • 2 months later...

<p>Same problem with my M6TTL. Changed film, took pictures, developed and found them all overexposed by 2 stops -- which was confirmed with my Pentax spotmeter and M9. Racked the old brain until reading this thread. Turned the ASA dial a couple of times. Lo and behold, the readings are correct again.</p>

<p>This thread just saved me the hassle and cost of sending it off for a check and estimate. Thanks!</p>

<p>However, I too suffer from "rapid depletion battery". It's OK under 3V, but not too far. But I HAVE to make sure the speed dial is set to "OFF" if the camera is anywhere near a human being with a wound shutter. The slightest pressure on the release and the battery is drained in no time if the shutter is wound. On my M9, I'm constantly forgetting to turn the power switch off and it really doesn't matter. The camera just goes to sleep. With the M6 I can't even carry it under a shirt or jacket ready to shoot.</p>

<p>Is there any way of adjusting the release on the M6 to make it slightly less responsive? Something like the M8/M9? And can the detent on the speed dial be removed so that it can be turned off in either direction?</p>

<p>- Børre</p>

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  • 3 weeks later...

<p>Borre, on the M6 TTL etc., the "gold blade" used for the meter light up/turn-on, can be <strong>reformed</strong> to have more release button distance before it starts up. (Body shell must be removed to access it below battery chamber)</p>

<p>With the <strong>exception</strong> of the M7, all of the M bodies have a 1,000th of a second cam that drops off a cliff if you proceed past it.<br /> (If you pass it then try to come back, you can do damage)</p>

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