Settings for Snow and SB900

[lisa_f]

<p>Well. I could post this over on the Wedding page but they are in a HUGE conversation about a similar subject that is WAY over my head and I want to know how to manage the SB900 specifically.</p>

<p>I have a D80 and SB900. I'm second shooting for a photographer who knows my level of inexperience. We have LOTS of snow cover here and may or may not be overcast for some outdoor shots. I also have an engagement shoot on Valentines, likely to be overcast. I need help with my metering, WB and compensation on SB900.</p>

<p>1. If I have the SB900 on camera, do I always choose WB = Flash?<br>

2. When I got the flash, the camera store guys said to adjust the compensation on the flash up or down by 1 or 1.5. I can't remember why or I might be able to reason it out.<br>

3. What mode do I use to meter to get the best basic results?<br>

(I am shooting in raw+jpg so I have a small amount of saving grace.)</p>

<p>Remember, if it's easier to get results that are a little better than okay compared to trying to figure too much out at once, I'm probably happier with easier.</p>

<p>Thanks in advance.</p>

<p> </p>

[pete_s.]

<p>1. Doesn't matter if you shoot raw (and you should). Just set it to auto so your LCD will look good.<br /> 2. Set the flash comp to +1/3.<br /> 3. Program mode and matrix metering on the camera. Enable Auto ISO. Set the flash to TTL-BL.<br /> Set the focus mode to AF-S and don't use focus and recompose. ISO 100.<br /> <br /> You will get a few underexposed shots. Just make them brighter in the raw converter. It's not a big deal when shooting outdoors.</p>

<p>If you move inside with tungsten light put the orange filter on your SB900 and increase your ISO to 400.</p>

[Jerry_]

<p>Do you want the snow to be properly exposed (i.e., white) or the persons in your images?</p>

<p>Take a bit of time and <em>practice</em> before you have to shoot your money shots. If you put your D80 in the large spot meter mode, meter your hand in the outdoor light. Then meter the snow. You will find about three stops different exposure wise. Adding fill light from your SB-900 is supposed to lighten shadows in the face -- it may not do a lot for a snowbank behind the couple you plan on shooting.</p>

<p> </p>

[lisa_f]

<p>Pete! Thanks so much for these starting points. I am loving shooting in M mode so I'll pratice Program mode a bit before then. Also thanks for the mode setting for the flash. One clarification...are you saying to set the WB in the camera to auto and NOT flash? And thanks for the extra guidance with the tungsten, very cool!</p>

<p>Jerry - I believe I want the people to be correctly exposed but I'm afraid the snow will seem like a bright light and cause the people to be underexposed. (no?) So I understand the meter reading would be dramatically different or I wouldn't have a question??? Maybe I'm missing something. I am looking for some starting points that I can tweek instead of being all over the place. It's like I know where I want to go, I know where North is, but I don't know where I am. I simply need the starting points.</p>

[Two23]

<p>If you are shooting using iTTL mode and not manual, and using matrix mode, the meter actually does a good job. I live where there is wall to wall snow and have dealt with it for decades. I rarely bother with exposure comp. when using modern meters. I agree with Pete S. Unless your scene is filled about 90% or more with snow and there is nothing at all dark in it to help Matrix Meter balance the exposure, don't worry about the snow. It's not a big deal since it's usually not that much of the scene. IF you are shooting a guy in a white suit who is backed up against a pure white snow drift 15 ft. high, then you might consider using a flash meter and switching to manual mode. If the guy is in a black suit you will be fine.</p>

<p>Kent in SD</p>

[elliot1]

<p>Chances are you have used the D80 enough to understand how it meters. As such, you will likely want to set your camera's exposure compensation to at least -.7 EV, especially if you are using matrix metering.</p>

<p>Depending on the distance to the your subject, you may need to adjust your flash's exposure compensation down for closer subjects and up form more distant subjects. Again, use your display and histogram to check and fix exposure.</p>

<p>As you are shooting a paid event, I would suggest that you don't experiment on their dime and continue shooting as you normally would. Your camera knows how to get it right and by shooting RAW, you have a lot of latitude if it gets it wrong. Use your camera's display and histogram to check exposure. If you take a shot and it is not exposed correctly, adjust the exposure compensation up or down as needed and re-shoot until you get it right.</p>

<p> </p>

[Jerry_]

<p>"...you will likely want to set your camera's exposure compensation to at least -.7 EV, especially if you are using matrix metering."</p>

<p>Please don't get into exposure compensation with the matrix meter selection: Matrix metering measures the entire scene and the D80's computer is not keen enough to know which part of the scene you want exposure compensation given to. If you use the large spot meter, exposure compensation is fine.</p>

<p>If you walk up close to the customer and get a meter reading in the face area, that should give you a rough exposure to use. If you bracket a frame or two, with fill-flash from your SB-900 -- you should be good to go. You really need to take a few frames the day before your scheduled shoot to see what your lens-flash-camera can do. [And try not to take a warm camera-lens outside and be ready to shoot -- you may have condensation (or frost) for a couple of minutes...]</p>

<p>Our area of Florida has white sand beaches (much like shooting in snow) and in bright sunshine, the camera's exposure meter generally goes 'nuts.' A polarizer filter and metering the face usually works fine.</p>

<p> </p>

[kevin_delson]

<p>Additionally, look up (FV LOCK) in your manual.<br>

This is a wonderful feature and you can assign a function button to turn it on and off.</p>

<p>Essentially, it (locks) the value (output) of your flash. This has many benefits.</p>

<p>1) No more pre-flash before the camera opens it's shutter.<br>

2) You can now focus and re-compose.<br>

3) You can adjust shutter and aperture w/o interacting with flash output.</p>

<p>***You must take the initial FV Lock reading with the subject centered in the frame.<br>

If you like the exposure (chimp) leave it alone and shoot away.</p>

<p>As long as you do not change your distance to the subject more than a few feet, you can continue to use this feature.</p>

<p>***Don't forget to turn (OFF) FV lock when you're done or when you need to get a new exposure reading with flash.</p>

[lisa_f]

<p>Great forum. Thanks for all the replies. I'm always amazed.</p>