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Slave Flash Question...


phantomdancer

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<p>I have a Nikon D60 and am thinking about getting 2 slave flashes to act as strobes so I can do more indoor portraits. Has anyone done this before? Which slave flash would be best for D60? Thanks!!<br>

BTW, by slave flash I mean a flash that I can mount on either side of my subject that triggers when my built in flash fires.</p>

 

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<p>Budget? If there's no limit, then get the SB900 for a controller and a pair of SB600's for slaves. You can use Nikon's built-in commander mode to control all the flashes from the SB900. This is the best and easiest way to get full control.</p>
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<p>Hmm... Kristi, the big question is whether you want to use the Nikon flash exposure automation or you want to do it the old way, set the flashes manually and just trigger from the camera. </p>

<p>For Nikon flash automation, Hal's suggestion is on target. And, other Nikon bodies (but not D60) can act as the controller; that would eliminate the need for one of the units. </p>

<p>For manual, most any flash pointed into an umbrella or home-made softbox will work. You want one that allows you to control the output (full, 1/2, 1/4, etc.). Use a light trigger, set your camera flash to manual, with minimal output like 1/64 or 1/32, and use a flash meter or your camera histogram. </p>

<p>I like a reflective umbrella on a stand. I also use two big home-made softboxes (big cardboard boxes, lined with foil, two layers of white sheer curtain material over the openings). I used these to light a family photo of 15 people every year for almost 20 years. </p>

<p>Vivitar 283 and 285 are fine. Metz 45 units will serve as a good, portable, battery powered slave flash with a lot more power. 45 CL-4 has more features and might be more useful, 45 CT-1 is cheap. Only plug these into a slave trigger, not to a modern camera, because of the trigger voltage issue. Wein slave triggers work well.</p>

<p>Hope this helps.</p>

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<p>Just for the record, I acknowledge that $900 is alot of money for some people (myself included). However, the OP has yet to state any budget whatsoever beyond "Nothing too expensive". I have no idea what is too expensive for you, but I wouldn't recommend you buy the cheapest flashes possible unless you truly are limited to under $100 total. I would think a reasonable setup might include some Chinese wireless triggers (PT-04's) and used Nikon flashes for around $125 apiece. Add some modifiers, and you're in for $300-$400. Of course, you won't have NEARLY the flexibility you would with Nikon's latest crop of flashes using the wireless commander system, or nearly the power you would with studio monoblocks.</p>
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I bought a couple of cheap ($20 each) slave units that I used to use in my film days, and with my Nikon digital D80 I run into the problem of the preflashes firing them. I don't know much about off camera trigering other than using my built-in commander mode, so I'm just mentioning this as a potential problem with some slave units. Is this an issue Kristi should be considering?
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<p>Ray: yes, I think that is an important point to bring up. Using the built-in flash as an optical trigger is not a great idea, unless the flash is set to manual mode. I'm not sure about the D60, but my D70 can set the flash to manual mode from full down to 1/16 power. This can limit its effect on the photo, eliminate the pre-flashes, and still power any optical triggers. Using the flash in TTL mode, however, fires pre-flashes that will drain the charge from my off-camera flashes before the photo is taken.</p>
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<p>Not too expensive is nothing over $150. I am new at this whole thing and am trying to learn how to use lighting for indoor portraits. A friend told me of the Zeikos DS12 and just want opinions if that kind of equipment (or something similar) is putting me in the right direction.</p>
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<p>If you use a simple slave flash you must put the DSLR camera flash in manual to eliminate the pre-flashes. </p>

<p>If light from the camera flash on 1/16 is a problem, block it from hitting the subject directly... Nikon used have have a little white dangle that came with the SU-4. I sometimes hold a white card or tape it in place. Just so the light doesn't hit the subject directly. Indoors, it will still trigger the slave.</p>

<p>Images vs. words... Here's the Nikon gadget... Put it on the hot shoe with the built-in flash raised and it blocks most of the direct light. Create similar from a white card if needed.</p><div>00VkHD-219637584.jpg.63e0e54275947da23ecca182adf12264.jpg</div>

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<p>I just looked at the Zeikos thingy. It looks REALLY cheap, and the reviews are terrible. I would look on eBay for the Yongnuo YN-460. These are as low as $40 each and include full manual controls and optical triggers. They are a little cheap, of course, but are fully featured and powerful enough to do some real lighting work.</p>
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