Thanks for the advice!

[mirzaphotography]

<p>Hey everyone,<br>

I want to thank all of you for helping prepare for my first big job (I shot it this past Saturday). The job was very successful and I implemented a lot fo the advice you all had given me leading up to the date.<br>

The lens suggestions of 85/1.8 and 17-55/2.8 were a perfect combo. My rented SB-900 provided perfect bouncing, I loved the 360 degree head rotation. I was able to whip up a really quick slideshow of the ceremony to be projected for the reception, the bride loved all the shots.<br>

One lesson learned...<br>

The SB-900 overheated, midway thru the first dance (YIKES!!). I didn't read the manual ahead of time and it really freaked me out to see that the SB900 was temporarily out of service. Luckily I had a SB600 as my backup and it filled in perfectly.<br>

I will edit and post a link to the pics sometime this week... you guys are like my virtual mentors and I would really appreciate your professional critique. Although the bride is satisfied with what she saw already (unedited) I still want to keep improving on my work.</p>

<p>Thanks!<br>

Bilal</p>

[mitch_w1]

<p>Glad to hear it went well, Bilal. Please post some photos when you have a chance so we can take a look-see. And thank goodness for backup equipment!</p>

[john_deerfield]

<p>What ISO were you shooting at during the first dance? I've had the SB900 overheat on me during an outside wedding but I was shooting ISO 100 (yes, low 3!) and still at f/11 or thereabouts. So the flash was firing full power in 95 degree weather! Or put another way, the flash really wasn't doing too much for fill anyway!. Indoors requires much less flash power even bouncing) unless you are still shooting a low ISO and a narrow aperture, which I wouldn't recommend for a first dance! Just food for thought. There was a firmware update for the SB900 that helped with the over heating issue. And you can turn off the automatic overheating turn off.... but if the flash fries it's not covered under warranty.</p>

[mirzaphotography]

<p>I'll have to check the info on the shots, but I'm pretty sure it was set at ISO 200, f2.8.<br>

I was bouncing over my left shoulder with no diffuser,  I think that might have been the cause of it.</p>

[picturesque]

<p>Probably the cause was just as John said--using a low ISO. Using higher ISOs and wider apertures means your flash has less work to do to get you correct exposures. Bouncing flash at ISO 200, even at f2.8, the flash was probably close to or at full power each time you shoot.</p>

<p>I would also add, I've found using Eneloop hybrid AAs helps. They seem to have less heat build up (can't scientifically prove this) and sometimes, when the flash overheats, you can replace the AAs with fresh, cool AAs and continue--but sometimes not. This is with my 580EX II, which does not have a user selectable switch for the overheating problem.</p>

[wedding-photography-denver]

<p>Well done.</p>

<p>Hope you keep learning and improving. Thats the way to succeed IMO.</p>

[melissapapajphotography]

<p>Awesome! WTG Bilal!</p>

[William Michael]

<p>On the Flash overheating - another two considerations:</p>

<p>1. Number of shots taken.</p>

<p>I am not wishing to start a tangent argument . . . but do take a close look at the number of repetitive shots you took during the dance sequence - I understand that likely that you were enthusiastic to ensure you got a few winners - but tailoring your technique might be in order such that you are more prescriptive before the shutter release, whist still taking advantage of the fact that multiple digital capture is very cheap and efficient method to ensure one or two winners.</p>

<p>2. Shooting A/B different Cameras - to rest each Flash</p>

<p>The other technique you might consider is systematically shooting cameras A/B, after a few shots with each, to then rest each flash for short period.</p>

<p>This is a good habit to use (or to know and practice) so you can employ it “without thinking” when you do need to use a lower ISO and the Flash does need to work harder, form fill, as one example.</p>

<p>Also this method leverages your Flash Recycle time.</p>

<p>WW</p>

 

[picturesque]

<p>To add to William's post, you can also trade off on flashes themselves. Use one flash up to the reception, and another for the reception, or even trade off during the reception. This is kind of what I do with battery packs. I attach one when I need really fast recycling. An external pack is another way to help your AAs inside the flash not work so hard. But that still doesn't mean you won't overheat just from firing a lot. Also, use of off camera flashes cuts down on the on camera having to work so hard.</p>

[William Michael]

<p>Good call ! . . . </p>

<p>As a general comment: External Battery packs are UNDERutilized or often just not thought of as an useful option to give leverage <em><strong>on many levels,</strong></em> for a Wedding Shoot<br>

<br>

Once the only way to fly (Big Metz wet cell pack over one shoulder, for example) the desire for “compact”, puts a Flash Battery Pack, out of the consideration many Photographer’s thinking. <br>

<br>

WW</p>

[lisa_f]

<p>I love this forum. I JUST picked up a SB-900 and did NOT know it could overheat.<br>

I<br>

LOVE<br>

THIS<br>

FORUM.</p>

[pete_s.]

<p>A side note on flash usage.</p>

<p>Take your flash and put it manual. Now fire at 1/1 power, 1/2 etc and down. Pay attention to the recycling speed and to the sound of the flash pop and try to remember what it like for each power setting.</p>

<p>Now, when shooting in TTL notice the flash recycling and listen to the pop. You should be able to identify approximately what power you are shooting at with this information.</p>

<p>If you like you could fire of full power pops in manual and check what it takes for the flash to shut off and/or how hot it gets. The user's manual usually has information about the maximum number of shots in a recommended time period. Below is the info for the SB900.</p><div></div>

[pete_s.]

<p>PS. When you bounce of something set the zoom of the flash in proportion to the distance. And remember that most flash modifiers are useless at a distance so sometimes a bare flash may be more optimal for power, recycling speed and overheating.</p>

[mirzaphotography]

<p>P.S.... I just became a paid member of Photo.net. :)</p>