Portrait Photography Equipment

[seline_v]

<p>I have a Canon Rebel XTi, 18-55mm lens kit and 50mm f/1.8. I would like to get into (amateur) portrait photography, mostly kids and family portraits (indoors). So, I would like to upgrade my lens kit and get necessary accessories (budget less than $500). What would you recommend?<br>

As for lens, I am thinking about Canon 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 or Canon 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS to cover 85mm and 100mm. At this point, I don't want to get any prime lenses. As for flash, I am thinking about Vivitar 285HV or Canon 430EX.<br>

Overall, I am not very happy with my 18-55mm lens kit. The photos look pretty much the same quality as taken with a point-and-shoot camera. I like my 50mm f/1.8 a lot. So, I am thinking 28-105mm or 28-135mm will cover both portrait and scenery photography, and the flash will be a replacement for the Canon built-in flash (for general purpose - indoors and night).<br>

Thank you!</p>

<p> </p>

[vilk_inc]

<p>what style of portraiture are you thinking of? slow zoom lenses and puny hot-shoe flashguns are the last things that come to my mind when i hear "portrait"--but then again, there are great portrait photographers who have no regard for textbook advice ;)<br /><br />personally, i would be more than happy with a 50 and a big dirty window facing north... happy for many long years<br /><br />capture souls. i hear you can do that with a cereal box ;)</p>

[savagesax]

What kind of lighting setup do you have, or looking for? Is that part of your necessary accessories?

 

Maybe look around for a used 24-105 L IS lens.

 

The Vivitar 285 flash is not bad, perhaps more powerful than the 430. If you shoot on manual I'd go with the Vivitar, but for use of ETTL stay with the Canon flash.

[michael_young3]

<p>I would skip the new lens and get as many flashes, lightstands, remote triggers, reflectors, and umbrellas as will fit into the current and next year's budget. But... realistically, start with one flash and see where you want to go from there. Do everything you can to get the flash off camera. A cord will do; a remote trigger will be even better. I would start with the 430EX2 rather than the Vivitar. Do a web search for the Strobist's Lighting 101.</p>

 

[bobatkins]

<blockquote>

<p>At this point, I don't want to get any prime lenses</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Well, I'd say that may be your first mistake!</p>

<blockquote>

<p>As for flash, I am thinking about Vivitar 285HV or Canon 430EX</p>

</blockquote>

<p>And unless you're going to be using bounce flash, reflectors and diffusers, that may be your second.</p>

<p>I'm going to move this from the Canon to the portrait forum, since I think you'll get better advice there.</p>

[summerleif]

<p>If you want to take good portraits, lighting is the most important aspect of your equipment. After you get the lighting right, good lenses can make the difference between "run of the mill", and extraordinary, photographs.</p>

[brucecahn]

<p>Yes, I agree that you need to learn portrait lighting. You can use flash or tungsten, but flash is much easier and is therefore preferable for commercial work. There are lots of small monolights around that will do the job without costing all that much. You need a mainlight and possibly a hair and background light, but you can certainly start with two. One should be about twice the power of the other. They probably have lighting info on this site. If not ask and someone will explain it. For a camera such as yours a 50mm f 1.8 is a good all around portrait lens.</p>

[archie_alcantara1]

<p>Not getting prime lens is not a mistake.<br>

As Seline pointed out, she does not want to get one right now but did not say she will not get one.<br>

Her money would be better spent on lighting equipment for now as she indicated she would like to do indoor photos.<br>

Seline, I would also recommend you budget in a decent light meter.</p>

[seline_v]

<p>Thank you for all the responses! Now, I have started looking at Strobist Light Kits at Midwest Photo Exchange, and have a few questions:<br>

The kits include LumoPro LP120 flash. Besides E-TTL, would there be any benefit of getting Canon EX430 instead of LumoPro LP120?<br>

Any opinions on softboxes vs. umbrella? Flash vs. monolight?<br>

What color umbrella would you recommend?<br>

The setup will not be used for commercial use, only a hobby.<br>

Thank you!</p>

[michael_young3]

<p>Flash for AA power and lightweight portability, ease of setup. Monolight has the bare flashtube needed for softboxes. The 430EXII can be a wireless remote slave if you have a suitable Canon wireless remote master (580EX, STE2, or 7D). I have no experience with the Strobist Kit, but it certainly looks like a usable kit and lacks gimmicky hype. Good on ya. His Lighting 101 is a wonderful start.</p>

[summerleif]

<p>Seline, you should read the following book available on amazon.com:</p>

<p><strong><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Light-Science-Introduction-Photographic-Lighting/dp/0240802756/ref=cm_cr_dp_orig_subj">Light: Science and Magic: An Introduction to Photographic Lighting (Paperback)</a> </strong></p>

<p>http://www.amazon.com/Light-Science-Introduction-Photographic-Lighting/dp/0240808193/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1265781534&sr=1-1</p>

 

[markonestudios]

"Overall, I am not very happy with my 18-55mm lens kit. The photos look pretty much the same quality as taken with a point-and-shoot camera" - That says to me that you likely need to work on your technique before you purchase any more equipment. Much as it is not a portrait lens per-se, it is still a capable tool, with the right technique. One only needs to do a quick search on flickr or similar, like so:

<p>Portraiture, like photography, is largely about lighting. You will likely get higher returns by focusing (no pun intended) on learning about light, how to use the ambient and how to supplement it. Having said that, your 50 1.8 is more up your street for portraiture. For the longest time it has been my go-to lens for portraits, both on my crop and full-frame SLRs. I don't think the 28-1xx zooms are a good idea for portraits. Given your current kit, I would actually only invest in a flash, a flash modifier like the Demb and maybe in a reflector for now. In fact, that pretty much all my 'supplemental' lighting kit for my <a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=502200">portraiture</a> :)

<p>Neil van Niekerk has very useful info on his planet neil website. The Strobist is also great. I have just started to read the Light: Science & Magic book and it is also a goldmine of information.

[john gettis]

<p>You might want to check out this light setup and use you 50 1.8 to begin with.<br>

<a href="http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/CF0502K1/">http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/CF0502K1/</a><br>

I have the 400 watt version of these and they work quite well. Hope this helps John</p>

[john_ashby2]

<blockquote>

<p>Overall, I am not very happy with my 18-55mm lens kit. The photos look pretty much the same quality as taken with a point-and-shoot camera.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>That's not because of the camera. It's primarily the techniques you're using to take the picture and the lighting you're using. Shooting an SLR like a point and shoot will give you pics that look like a point. Your gear should let you take excellent quality portraits and I know you say you want to shoot indoors, but practice outdoors first so you don't need to invest in lighting equipment you don't yet know how to use. You have to learn to walk before you can run and the best running shoes in the world won't change that.</p>

[richard_crowe4]

<p>IMO, it is difficult to learn lighting without the halp of modeling lights. By using a hotshoe type flash, even jazzed up with the Strobist jury-rigs, you are shooting blind. Yes, photographers have done some nice work with hotshoe flashes but, IMO it is despite the hotshoe flash not, because of them. You can biol ice cubes to make tea but, that sure is not the most efficient way of getting hot water.<br>

You can get Chinese strobes for around $50 each on eBay which are equipped with modeling lights and which can be used on light stands and with light modifiers without needing accessory attachments.<br>

The Chinese lights are not powerful but, you really don't need a lot of power for head and shoulders portraits. You can work with a main and fill light using ubbrellas and a background and/or a hair light.<br>

To start off, simply use the lenses that you have. Get a large piece of foamboard from a craft shop and place your subject next to a window. Use the window lightas your main or key light and place the foamboard so that its reflection provides fill light. be cognizent of your background - so it is not too busy and you will be well on your way to learning portrait lighting.<br>

<a href="http://www.5min.com/Video/Window-Light-Portraits-148098495">http://www.5min.com/Video/Window-Light-Portraits-148098495</a></p>

 

[neal_thorley]

<p>Don't blame your lens for crappy photo's<br>

and you can totally make great portraits with a 50mm lens. you'll be a little closer but i find, that works well with kids. you can connect with them better.<br>

Spend your money on lighting, and light modifiers.<br>

Flash, wireless trigger, softbox, reflector.. that oughtta be about $500<br>

All the best!</p>