kcrisp Posted September 10, 2002 Share Posted September 10, 2002 I'm finally going to try Pyro. I bought the kit from Photographers' Formulary. The instructions said any undisolved Kodalk in the second solution would disappear soon. It didn't happen going on a week. There is a supersaturated slurry in the bottom of the glass jar which isn't quite dissolved. I used distilled water and measured exactly. Now when I use it, should I shake it up first so whatever I draw off is the same concentration each time? Did something go wrong? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
light-zone Posted September 10, 2002 Share Posted September 10, 2002 I've had the same thing happen to me, and, like you, was concerned and posted the same question here. You can either 1) Double the amount of water, then double the amount of the B solution when mixing your developer or 2) carefully heat the solution to about 100°F to aid in the dissolving process or, 3)just shake the bottle before taking the 10 or 20ml of solution. BTW, I just shake the bottle. The results are fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcrisp Posted September 10, 2002 Author Share Posted September 10, 2002 Thanks, I'm going to try it out this weekend. I'm not sure it can live up to all the hype but I'll try it and compare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nze_christian Posted September 10, 2002 Share Posted September 10, 2002 There is also another simple solution. You could add water to make 2 liters of the Kodalk solution. And then you will just have to add twice of Part B. At this dilution the solution will be clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg_rust Posted September 10, 2002 Share Posted September 10, 2002 Kevin, Whether you are impressed with the results or not depends on the lighting conditions and the film. Try it in bright or contrasty situations. On low contrast scenes it wont appear that much better than other developers. It may be a little sharper and smoother though. Its a developer that will let you print a very long tonal range with little effort and no burning and dodging. Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl_weese Posted September 10, 2002 Share Posted September 10, 2002 Another approach is to mix only the A solution in advance. To make working solution, dissolve six grams of sodium metaborate per liter of water and add 10ml of solution A. I pre-measure ziplock packets of 18 grams (to make 3 liters, my usual quantity for a development batch) and keep a stack in the darkroom. Much easier than trying to dissolve the highly saturated B solution stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
light-zone Posted September 10, 2002 Share Posted September 10, 2002 That's a good idea Carl. Where do you get such small zip lock baggies? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_galli4 Posted September 11, 2002 Share Posted September 11, 2002 Another solution is my personal favorite, ignore that stuff on the bottom. Won't make a bit of difference and after awhile it will assimilate (sic??) OK dissolve. G'luck with the Pyro. I've been hooked for about 4 years now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael_a._smith1 Posted September 11, 2002 Share Posted September 11, 2002 Still a PMK cult, I see. Do you folks know that ABC yields better results than PMK, at least for negatives that will be contact printed. There is a great discussion about this on the "Azo Forum" on our web site: www.michaelandpaula.com (Look under "Azo" and find the ABC vs. PMK thread). I always knew ABC was better, and several participants exlained why (I never knew the reasons). At the Large Format Conference in Albuquerque, even Gordon Hutchings said that ABC was better if one would be making contact prints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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