Combiplan with No Instructions - Help/Advice?

[nils_rain]

<p>I got an HP Combiplan tank complete, but without

instructions...<br>

I figured out how to load it, but I've got a couple questions.</p>

<ul>

<li>How much developer do they recommend to use?

<li>Emulsion facing in or out?

<li>I read on other posts that agitation is important (more important

than usual?) Any keys? I plan to invert twice every 30 sec.

<li>I'm using X-Pan Pro at N and N+3 (320 and 2500 ISO) with XTOL

1:1. Any recommendations for dev't times in this tank? I read about

using the initial dunk rather than filing through the funnel - that

sounds like a good idea, so I'll try that.

</ul>

 

 

<p>I'd appreciate any help from someone with experience/instruction

sheet.

 

<p>TIA<br>

- N i l s

[paul_owen]

1. Inside the lid should list the quantities required. I recall 5x4 needing 1000ml.

2. Doesn't seem to matter which way around you load the sheets.

3. Agitation needs to be done SLOWLY, this prevents the film slipping out of the carrier. I use a sort of slow-motion side-to-side movement (turning the tank through 90 degrees).

4. I use the funnel but have found that the solution enters quicker if the valve is opened up just passed the arrow on the lid.

Another tip - when you slide the clip over the bar to stop the film escaping from the frame make sure that the clip is not down too far or too high as the film will escape. Do a dry run with a spare sheet of film and you can hear how many "clicks" are needed for the clip to be properly seated - with mine it is two clicks!!

[tony_galt]

Developer quantity: with 4x5 it is 36 oz. Look inside the lid, the figure should be embossed there.

 

Face the emulsion outward on each side of the film rack.

 

Agitation: Here's what I do and I've been getting even development. (Of course, things may be different for you, but here's something to start with.) Give the film a 2 minute water soak before the developer phase. This prewetting seems to help with eveness of development. Start the timer when you start pouring in developer. I agitate for 30 seconds after the developer is in and then I invert the tank twice every 30 seconds thereafter, reversing the direction of inversion each time. Now for something very important: agitate by slowing turning the tank completely upside down and when the tank is upside down let it rest that way for an instant. Avoid sloshing motions as much as possible. BE SURE THAT YOU INVERT ALONG THE LONGER AXIS OF THE TANK!!! If you invert the tank along the shorter axis the film may be knocked out of the film holder rack by the action of the liquid (I learned this the hard way). Pour the developer out of the tank when the timer goes off. Filling and draining takes about 30 sec. If you can work in a light tight darkroom, dunking the film holder into the tank at the beginning of development would be a good idea, but you'll have to allow for the draining time at the end, unless you can work with another tank for the stop bath in the dark.

 

I don't know about the particular film/developer combination you mention, but, in general, try to choose a developer (or dilution) that gives you a longer development time. I don't develop for less than 7 1/2 minutes. I use HC-110 with Ilford Delta 100 and with Tri-X. Different dilutions of this developer allow you to choose a development time that is long enough.

 

I've arrived at the above through trial and error and suggestions found on this forum. The instructions that come with the tank don't help very much and if they were made clearer much frustration could be avoided.

 

More tips: (1)the ribs on the tank drains are sharp and will irritate your fingers. Try grasping them with a cloth to turn. The drains ease up a bit with use so this is less a problem down the line. (2) When you load the film rack make sure that the sheets are in separate grooves and don't put the orange clip that holds them in place on too tightly--this can cause them to bow too much and come out of place. It is really a good idea to thoroughly familiarize yourself with how things feel by dry loading the tank with 6 discarded sheets of film over and over again until you are confident about it. (3) The film rack comes with some spacers (orange washers) that are I believe meant to set it up for glass plates. Put the rack together without them.

 

This tank can be frustrating (again, poor instructions don't help here) and that is reflected in the postings of some people that will be found in the list archives, but IT IS possible to make it work right.

[david_tolcher]

I had quite a bit of trouble initially with film coming loose and sticking together in spite of careful agitiation. I have found two things that have helped overcome the problem.

1) Glue the holder together with araldite (epoxy resin glue)- I only use 5X4 sheet film so this is no loss but the holder is now rock solid. I found that the very slight flex on the holder was enough to assist sheets slipping out.

2) I have switched devloper to dixactol using partial stand which has an initial 30 sec inversion then a stand of 2 minutes, 10sec inversion, 2 minutes stand cycle up to a development time of about 8 minutes.

3) Advice on sharpness of the screw thread to undo the air valve is good - I got a box of thin surgical gloves which I wear when using the tank (it leaks a little) and these grip the thread well.

 

Best regards

 

Dave

[bob_moulton7]

I fill the tank up above the film holder. Important: Do not use the funnel pouring method, as chances are very good you will overdevelop the edge of the film adjacent to the intake hole a lot. I kill all lights after premeasuring pre wet and developer, load the film carrier, place in tank, pour in prewet, time for 1 minute, dump, and pour in developer. Start clock, cap tank, turn lights on. I repeat these steps for stop bath ( for me that's water) and fix. I haven't had any problems with this setup. Moreover, should you ever need significant minus development--similar to that John Sexton has developed (no pun intended!), the Combi tank works fine.

Last hint: see if you can find a second tank, That makes the blackout steps quicker as you only have to transfer the film carrier from one tank to another.

Bob

[bob_salomon]

" had quite a bit of trouble initially with film coming loose and sticking together

in spite of careful agitiation. I have found two things that have helped

overcome the problem. 1) Glue the holder together with araldite (epoxy resin

glue)- I only use 5X4 sheet film so this is no loss but the holder is now rock

solid. I found that the very slight flex on the holder was enough to assist

sheets slipping out"

 

There is an easier way.

 

Simply assemple the tank so that the lock nuts are on opposite sides of the

film carrier. Rather then having both on the same side. This makes the holder

more rigid and you can use it this way for glass plates or sheet film of any size

that fits the tank.

[david_rose3]

I would like to ad a couple of suggestions:

 

The instructions suggest an agitation intervat of 15 seconds- that's what I use.

 

In a previous post to this forum, I detailed my method of using two tanks to avoid concerns about long fill and drain times. You might want to look up my original post, but basically the method is to begin development by inserting the loaded film rack into a tank already filled with developer. A second tank is filled with stop bath. When the development time is complete, remove the film rack from the developer tank and put it in the stop tank. Since the stop and fix times are less critical, I use the standard fill and drain method for the rest of the process.